Derailer on viking e-go bike

[Jcams11]

Hi. Got a flat rear tyre. Took of derailer with screwdriver and a oddly shaped washer fell out. Still can't get wheel off. Still seems stuck on the opposite side. Also no Idea how to put the derailer back on and where that washer goes. Any help would be grateful. Is there a service manual or something or just advice would be good. Thanks.

[Jdsk]

Welcome

Could you add some photos of the area of interest and the washer.

Thanks

Jonathan

[Jcams11]

Thanks. Here are the pics. Just can't figure it out. Any help appreciated.

[Barrowman]

The usual thing is : The Bolt goes through the hole in the gear hanger, then screws into the D plate , the gear hanger on the outside of where the axle sits, the D plate on the inside , the raised part on the D plate sits in the rear fork behind where the axle sits and the gear hanger should line up with the 'hook' of the rear fork end, the Non raised bit on the D sits inside the fork end . Put it as far back as it will go but make sure the raised bit is inside the hook of the fork. Tighten it up, then put the wheel back where it should be and tighten that up. There is usually no need to unscrew the gear hanger when taking the rear wheel out , put the chain on the smallest sprocket front and back before undoing the wheel that will give you plenty of chain slack to play with ,undo the wheel, let it come forward and down slightly, unhook the chain and the wheel should be free of the rest of the bike.

A better ,wider picture of the rear fork end ( is the bike upside down in the photo? ) with a bit more detail of the frame / fork end in front of the freewheel will help confirm what I am saying here.

Not sure why it would be stuck on the other side. As an E bike are there any tabbed washers on the axle that engage in the frame?
The axle needs to be pretty much parralell on both sides to allow it to slide out once the nuts are undone and the chain unhooked.

If you search Gear Hanger on e bay you can find pictures of similar style hangers ( ignore the ones that don't look like yours) assembled to give you an idea of how yours should go.

[Jcams11]

Many thanks. I will try tomorrow. Much appreciate your help

[PT1029]

Alas Barrowman's response applies to normal adjustable dropouts where the wheel slide out forwards..
These are not "normal" dropouts/forkends. They are horizontal dropouts as per traditional track frames, the wheel is removed by sliding the wheel out backwards.....
You have removed the gear mech/plate. Barrowman's reassembly instructions pretty much apply,
Take any photos as you go in case you need to refer to them when reassembling.
Slide the wheel backwards to remove it from the frame.
Sort your puncture/refit tyre/tube

Fit the gear hanger plate ALMOST as per Barrowman's instructions (looking on line, the gear mounting bolt goes INFRONT OF of the wheel axle, it has a "back to front" gear hanger see https://www.foldingbikes4u.co.uk/produc ... g-bikes-4u and use the zoom to close in on the gear), you can slide the gear along from the rear.[/b] NB: -
Bewildering alert. You need to get the chain/gear tension arm in the correct orientation/alignment. Try to find an online photo of your bike to see how it should be. At this stage it might all go well, or you end up in a tangle of chain.....
Secure the gear mounting bolt.
Refit the wheel - slide in from the rear - leave the RH wheel nut loose. NB: -
1.Make sure the part of the chain above the rear gear goes over the rear cog.

EDIT 1 Before fitting the wheel axle in the fork end it might be easier to derail the chain off the chain wheel to give you enough spare chain to wrap around the rear cog before you put the wheel axle in the drop out/fork end.
EDIT 2 At this point it might be easier to keep the chain on the chain wheel to prevent you getting the chain in a confusing tangle. A compromise would be to derail the chain off the chain wheel but keep it wrapped over the pedal to maintain some sense of order/reduced lever of chain entanglement.

Secure wheel nuts - the RH wheel nut clamps onto the gear plate.
Reconnect the brake if you unhooked it.

Next time, leave the gear in place if you can.
I have done such bikes at work, they are a complete pain. Consider you self lucky you do not have a rear hub motor (wire goes into the wheel axle which adds another level of complexity......).
To reduce this faff, try to repair punctures with the wheel in situ (find the hole, just remove a section of tyre to allow for the puncture repair) and/or fit more puncture resistant tyres to reduce the incidences of punctures in the first place.
Why they don't make such bikes with forward facing dropouts I just don't know.

[PT1029]

How did you get on refitting the wheel?

[Barrowman]

Sorry didn't realise from photos that we were talking 'track' ends , not familiar with these machines.