Anyone gone from using Avid BB7 to hybrid hydraulic calipers?

[Manc33]

Hydraulic calipers that are still pulled by a cable - I never knew such a thing existed.

I was checking out some called Juin Tech M1.

Has anyone gone from full mechanical to a hybrid type caliper like this?

One guy said they are almost indistinguishable from full hydraulics. The reason they have such appeal to me is, I need to use brake levers with a motor cutoff on my eBike and I'm not faffing around gluing magnets onto normal hydraulic levers to have the motor cutoff, but with these I could keep the same brake levers and have hydraulic braking.

I have no idea if they are better than BB7 or anything like full hydraulics.

[freeflow]

They are about 90% as good as Hydraulic. They can be fiddly to set up. You should prefer on open system such as TRP HY/RD rather than a closed system like the one you mention in your post.

[KM2]

Look up. Trace velo. On YouTube, I’m sure he has looked at this type before.

[Stradageek]

I've not tried these but I recently switched from BB7 to Shimano Hydraulics, it's totally chalk and cheese, I never realised the BB&'s were so poor. Admittedly my rear cable run on the Speedmachine is very long and I didn't use compression-less cables but with the hydraulics I barely need the front brake as the rear is so good.

Fitting the cable cut-off switches isn't much less of a faff than gluing magnets, I'd go full hydraulic

[PH]

The reason they have such appeal to me is, I need to use brake levers with a motor cutoff on my eBike and I'm not faffing around gluing magnets onto normal hydraulic levers to have the motor cutoff, but with these I could keep the same brake levers and have hydraulic braking.

Yours is the second post in recent days to highlight a similar issue. Forgive me for offering a similar suggestion.
As you only need one lever with a cut-off and there's no requirement for front and back brakes to match, you could consider removing that requirement from one brake.
I haven't had a hybrid brake, I have had several types of mechanical disk (Spyre, BB7 & 5, Clarke, Paul Klamper) and a couple of different Shimano hydraulic brakes (MT200* & Deore). I didn't find there was much difference in stopping ability between any of them, or that they were much better than well set up rim brakes in the dry. The most noticeable differences have been in feel and effort required, followed by the servicing requirements, hydraulics are the easiest to live with. For those advantages, unless there was good reason not too, I'd always choose hydraulic discs over any other brake.

* Shimano MT-200 are an absolute bargain, and available singularly from £22.

[mattsccm]

Done just that. Went back to the BB7's. Must add that this was with drops so maybe there is a difference.
In your shoes I would be fitting hydro levers/calipers and messing with the magnet. Much less fuss.

[Vantage]

Agree with PH that there isn't much difference in braking power between cable and hydraulic calipers.
However, I don't have any brake cutoff power on my ebike and there's been no issues whatsoever. In fact, I would say the ability to brake and use the motor at the same time is handy in some situations (off-road biking specifically).
Using power to climb a rocky ascent whilst braking to avoid having the bike run away from you for instance.

[Brucey]

it might help if you say whether you are using flat bars or drops on your e-bike.

[gregoryoftours]

I don't have first hand experience of juintech calipers but I've heard talk of them developing leaks quite quickly.

[freeflow]

I don't have first hand experience of juintech calipers but I've heard talk of them developing leaks quite quickly.

Socratic sieves apply methinks.
https://mot.global/2020/05/the-story-of ... ee-sieves/

[Cyclothesist]

I don't have first hand experience of juintech calipers but I've heard talk of them developing leaks quite quickly.

Socratic sieves apply methinks.
https://mot.global/2020/05/the-story-of ... ee-sieves/

A very polite way of doubting the veracity of that claim. My searching of internet concurs with you. I found no supporting evidence for a leak problem.

[gregoryoftours]

I can't remember where I read it but I can't find it now either. A few months ago they were a hell of a lot cheaper so I presumed that they were a Chinese brand of cheap quality. I was thinking of getting them but some reports of leaking after a short while put me off. They are certainly not budget priced now though. I'd go with trp hy-rd despite the added expense.

[Jupestar]

Juin Tech calipers are decent in my opinion. On a par with the TRP HY/RD. But much smaller. Both are a faff to set up.

Your looking at the M1 version (as opposed to the R1) so I assume flat bars and your using the MTN BB7.

On long pull I doubt you'll find much difference. On the short pull versions you can feel the upgrade.

If BB7s are not doing what you need go full hydro. Worth the extra effort.

[George goodyear]

Hydraulic calipers that are still pulled by a cable - I never knew such a thing existed.

I was checking out some called Juin Tech M1.

Has anyone gone from full mechanical to a hybrid type caliper like this?

One guy said they are almost indistinguishable from full hydraulics. The reason they have such appeal to me is, I need to use brake levers with a motor cutoff on my eBike and I'm not faffing around gluing magnets onto normal hydraulic levers to have the motor cutoff, but with these I could keep the same brake levers and have hydraulic braking.

I have no idea if they are better than BB7 or anything like full hydraulics.

I had an e-conversion done on a bike that I owned and a dedicated rear braking system was installed. On my bike when I stopped pedalling and began to slow down the brake was applied by magnets, sensors or whatever. I found this extremely irritating and got the bike shop to disconnect it which they were initially reluctant to do until I told them that i had been cycling for 70 years and could decide for myself when i needed to brake. My bike has a mid motor FWIW

[Brucey]

freeflow has alluded to he difference between TRP HyRd calipers (open) and Juin tech (closed) but perhaps this would benefit from some clarification.
In all 'open' hydraulic systems there is a dead spot at the top of the lever stroke, as the 'compensation port' closes. This means the brake's 'biting point' is always a bit further on in the lever stroke. The 'biting point' cannot usually be adjusted in 'open' systems. Most hydraulic brakes (on cars, motorcycles, trucks etc.) are configured this way. The alternative (which is only ever seen in some bicycle brakes AFAIK) is for the hydraulic system to be of 'closed' configuration. The benefits of a 'closed' system are that the brake 'bite' point and pad to disc clearance are easily adjusted. So why are 'closed' systems not more widespread?
It is because only the 'open' configuration gives you automatic adjustment for pad wear, something we pretty much take for granted with car, truck, and motorcycle brakes, whereas in a 'closed' system pad wear can only be manually adjusted for. This soon turns into an endless faff if you are more used to an 'open' system and the pad wear is rapid. However some folk appreciate the high biting point offered by 'closed' systems (finding the low 'biting point' of 'open' systems somewhat disconcerting) and they cope with the seemingly endless adjustments, which are at least easy to do. The systems also differ in how they handle fault conditions; so it is arguably easier to know if your 'closed' brakes have air trapped in the calipers or are getting too hot, because the brakes tend to come on by themselves.
It may not have started out this way, but today, even most bicycle brakes are of 'open' configuration.


ps. in theory a 'closed' system ought to offer more MA, more running clearance, or both. However, in practice 'open' systems are not found lacking in either regard.