winter on the west coast
winter on the west coast
Not sure whether this should be included in the "cycling madness" or possibly even "Scotland in March", but rather than lose it, thought I'd give it its own space in case anyone searches by thread titles in years to come.
Last week, as the weather forecast was for sunshine, I took the train North for two days on the west coast of Scotland. It was very cold further inland, but mostly around freezing on the coast. I deliberately planned a route to mostly stick to sea level and roads that were likely to have been gritted. Prior to leaving I had hoped to start at Glenfinnan, take a gravel road along Lock Shiel and then a small tarmac road over a pass from Polloch to Strontian. Once the sun rose in the morning I realised that the height of the pass (1000ft) and a bit more overnight snow than expected meant that I considered that a little too adventurous, so I took the coast road from Glenfinnan to Strontian via Corran instead.
First day was Glenfinnan to Kilchoan (overnight in Tobormory). Second day was around Mull and then ferry/train back to Glasgow. About 65 miles a day. Road conditions were fine, there were a couple of very minor front wheel movements, but nothing particularly serious. Hotels were cheap. Very few (pretty much none) places open for coffee/snacks en route, so a flask and supplies were taken. I've cycled around here in the summer - it's lovely, but there's something very special about snow, sun and sea. Obviously only possible to do at very short notice due to the importance of the weather, but it was a magical couple of days. No other cyclists, and only a couple of walkers encountered from start to finish.
I only really started cycle touring after digging a bike out of the shed during covid, and I have to say, it's really been a wonderful thing.
Route
Ben Nevis from the coast road between Glenfinnan and Corran
Armurchan near Kilchoan
Mull, looking across to Ben More from near Ulva
Mull, from the road through Glen More
Last week, as the weather forecast was for sunshine, I took the train North for two days on the west coast of Scotland. It was very cold further inland, but mostly around freezing on the coast. I deliberately planned a route to mostly stick to sea level and roads that were likely to have been gritted. Prior to leaving I had hoped to start at Glenfinnan, take a gravel road along Lock Shiel and then a small tarmac road over a pass from Polloch to Strontian. Once the sun rose in the morning I realised that the height of the pass (1000ft) and a bit more overnight snow than expected meant that I considered that a little too adventurous, so I took the coast road from Glenfinnan to Strontian via Corran instead.
First day was Glenfinnan to Kilchoan (overnight in Tobormory). Second day was around Mull and then ferry/train back to Glasgow. About 65 miles a day. Road conditions were fine, there were a couple of very minor front wheel movements, but nothing particularly serious. Hotels were cheap. Very few (pretty much none) places open for coffee/snacks en route, so a flask and supplies were taken. I've cycled around here in the summer - it's lovely, but there's something very special about snow, sun and sea. Obviously only possible to do at very short notice due to the importance of the weather, but it was a magical couple of days. No other cyclists, and only a couple of walkers encountered from start to finish.
I only really started cycle touring after digging a bike out of the shed during covid, and I have to say, it's really been a wonderful thing.
Route
Ben Nevis from the coast road between Glenfinnan and Corran
Armurchan near Kilchoan
Mull, looking across to Ben More from near Ulva
Mull, from the road through Glen More
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Re: winter on the west coast
Wow. Inspiring stuff, thank you for sharing.
Re: winter on the west coast
Oh wow.
I've ridden bits of that - but only in June and July!!! (my favourite bit was the road from the Kilchoan ferry - we were heading north on an Audax. After a couple of miles it was a real "We're not in Kansas any more" moment! )
Just ... well, wow!
I've ridden bits of that - but only in June and July!!! (my favourite bit was the road from the Kilchoan ferry - we were heading north on an Audax. After a couple of miles it was a real "We're not in Kansas any more" moment! )
Just ... well, wow!
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Re: winter on the west coast
Looks very good! Have you ever ridden the A861 from Lochailort down to Salen? If so how would you say it compares to the Glenfinnan to Strontian via Corran route you took? I rode that way a few years ago, but did not go to Strontian instead I took the B8007 road to Kilchoan (which I guess you also used), I found that route pretty good though I guess shorter than your day. I've visited Ardnamurchan a few times over the years, but it's an area I'd like to go back to.
Re: winter on the west coast
Cojones!!
Well done. What a great trip at any time of year but in the weather we have just had, very impressive.
Fabulous photos too. If you have other please share them.
Well done. What a great trip at any time of year but in the weather we have just had, very impressive.
Fabulous photos too. If you have other please share them.
Re: winter on the west coast
Fantastic trip and some great photos.
I enjoy seeing peoples winter trips, but it's not for me.
I enjoy seeing peoples winter trips, but it's not for me.
Re: winter on the west coast
I've ridden the A861 route (South to North), and I'm not sure I could pick a favourite. Obviously there's a different flavour, as one gives views inland to the Ben and Monmores, while the other looks out towards the Small Isles. Perhaps the A861 is a little busier in the summer?gloomyandy wrote: 14 Jan 2025, 7:35pm Looks very good! Have you ever ridden the A861 from Lochailort down to Salen? If so how would you say it compares to the Glenfinnan to Strontian via Corran route you took? I rode that way a few years ago, but did not go to Strontian instead I took the B8007 road to Kilchoan (which I guess you also used), I found that route pretty good though I guess shorter than your day. I've visited Ardnamurchan a few times over the years, but it's an area I'd like to go back to.
I'd definitely like to go back to Ardmanurchan, as there are still two routes I'd like to take - as mentioned in the OP, cycling down Loch Shiel on the gravel path to Pollock is one. I'd also like to cycle from Kilchoan across to Sanna, as the road goes through the crater of a very large extinct volcano. You can make it out it if you use the satellite view on google maps. And of course, it's a lovely beach and would be a great place to spend an hour or more. I had hoped to do that the other day, but there just wasn't enough time to get back for the last ferry to Tobermory
Also, a quick shout out to the road to the Lighthouse (most westerly point on the British mainland) where there is a very nice cafe.
Re: winter on the west coast
Shamelessly, I do have a couple more!Navrig wrote: 14 Jan 2025, 10:37pm Cojones!!
Well done. What a great trip at any time of year but in the weather we have just had, very impressive.
Fabulous photos too. If you have other please share them.
I did try and keep to sea level to avoid issues with ice and snow, but there were a couple of sections where the road climbed up a little.
This is the road between Corran and Strontian. It was the only poor visibility I encountered - there was a N/W breeze up Loch Sunart, so I think the air got a little warm and damp before rising up the hill. It's only about 100m altitude, and only like this for a mile or so. It was the slippiest conditions on the trip :
This is on Mull - the road between Dervaig and the west coast. It is avoidable by taking a loop around Calgary bay, but I didn't fancy the extra mileage. The road is very much not as slippy as it might appear - I just rode on the very thin layer of snow. The downhill section was exposed to the sun, and had very little snow (or dampness of any sort) on.
And here's 3 random locations on Mull :
When planning the trip, I tried to mitigate risk as far as I was able:
Popped on some 45mm gravel tyres that I could run at a lowish pressure.
Took roads that had (mostly) been treated
Took roads that were as near as possible to the sea (and sea level)
Took roads that were likely to have at least some traffic so that I could request aid if necessary.
Took a flask, extra food and survival bag and extra clothing.
Planned bail-outs and short cuts so that I could still make ferries/overnight stays if I was delayed or the weather intervened.
The only mechanical I had was that the front derailleur froze up at one point, but a little nudge got it moving again.
My biggest worry was missing the Kilchoan ferry once I'd left Strontian. There was literally no available accommodation showing on airbnb or booking.com in the area. I guess I would have been resorting to knocking on doors and begging for a room. There is a waiting room for the ferry, but it isn't heated, so it would have been an unpleasant night.
Re: winter on the west coast
There used to be a wonderful B&B in Kilchoan, not sure if it is still there. It was run by the local District Nurse.
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Re: winter on the west coast
What a great trip and fantastic photos!
I've done most, if not all, of those roads before, but not in winter - so I can appreciate what a great tour it must have been.
I've done most, if not all, of those roads before, but not in winter - so I can appreciate what a great tour it must have been.