Durable/Strong Road Cable Road

[Cyclothesist]

I remember 2 years ago Jim77 posted with a similar problem with a Tiagra shifter eating cables. That was due to the omission of the cable guide that apparently didn't fit and got dragged into the shifter inards.
Is it Groundhog day?
Something is niggling in the back of my mind about mistakes of history and doomed to repeat....

[Jim77]

I remember 2 years ago Jim77 posted with a similar problem with a Tiagra shifter eating cables. That was due to the omission of the cable guide that apparently didn't fit and got dragged into the shifter inards.
Is it Groundhog day?
Something is niggling in the back of my mind about mistakes of history and doomed to repeat....

Yes, it is the same issue that I could never resolve. I just resigned myself to having to replace the cable more regularly, but now it is getting a bit ridiculous.

I am interested to hear more about your potential jbweld solution.

[2_i]

I have been using a brake inner cable to shift the front mech on my Brompton. The Brompton geometry has challenged the mech's operation, including applying a stronger force from the shifter.

When using a brake cable for this purpose, you need to ensure that the housing can handle it. The bamboo type and some other housings from Jagwire and AliExpress are identical for shift and brake cables. The Sunrace thumb shifter I am using has no problem with the brake cable either.

[Cyclothesist]

I remember 2 years ago Jim77 posted with a similar problem with a Tiagra shifter eating cables. That was due to the omission of the cable guide that apparently didn't fit and got dragged into the shifter inards.
Is it Groundhog day?
Something is niggling in the back of my mind about mistakes of history and doomed to repeat....

Yes, it is the same issue that I could never resolve. I just resigned myself to having to replace the cable more regularly, but now it is getting a bit ridiculous.

I am interested to hear more about your potential jbweld solution.

First have a new cable guide to hand and get some JB Weld 'plastic weld' putty. Trial fitting the cable guide and work out what part of the shifter body needs reconstruction to make the guide fit properly. Clean and degrease the area to be built up thoroughly. Prepare the putty as per instructions. Take a suitable piece of the JBW putty and apply it being careful not to push any into the shifter mechanism. A small clean screwdriver can help apply pieces of putty. Fit the cable guide and press it in place to mold the putty to shape. Carefully remove any excess putty. Allow it the allotted time to cure (min 3hrs). Fit the cable and test ride.

[Jim77]

Ok thank you.

Have you had first hand experience of this approach being a success?

[Cyclothesist]

Ok thank you.

Have you had first hand experience of this approach being a success?

I've not had to do it on this particular shifter model. It's worked for other parts so I'm thinking it's either giving this a go or buying a replacement shifter.
If you're lucky Brucey may have an ingenious alternative suggestion if you don't fancy mine.

[Brucey]

I would probably use a more conventional liquid epoxy here, cast it in situ, using rubber 'dams' and plugs to confine it. I would then reshape it, probably using a dremel tool. This method has the advantage that it can be any shape, and in particular there should be no 'step' onto the lever housing. In addition, it allows you to choose/tailor a filler material, giving the desired friction/wear properties.

Still need to be sure we are treating a cause, not a symptom, though.