Ceased cranks

[Cyclewala]

RJ the bike guy has a few methods. Some of which are mentioned above.

https://youtu.be/9n1z2kwmL8o?si=XQ8QkpPwE2Ph6OR0

[drossall]

Spelling isn’t my strongpoint, and of course I could be completely wrong, but the OP might care to search under seized rather than ceased

Nonsense. By the time the participants in this thread have finished with them, ceased is exactly what they'll be

[djnotts]

Done a few in the past. Hacksaw, engineering chisel and big hammer. Comes a point when destructive removal of cranks (and b/b with drill, hacksaw and the bigger hammer)) only way.

[cricklewood_graeme]

Thankyou for all your helpful comments so far specially about my spelling. Seized of course not ceased. The puller option doesn't work in my case because the geometry of my chainrings won't allow the arms of the puller to gain a purchase. I think the way forward is to trash the cranks and chainrings with hacksaw/grinder then use cold chisels. It's not that expensive to buy replacements. I have seen 2nd hand ones on line for around £20. I agree that the bottom bracket sealed bearing will probably also be seized but I will leave that problem in the hands of my trusty LBS.

[Audax67]

Thankyou for all your helpful comments so far specially about my spelling. Seized of course not ceased.

Autocorrect is a bustard. You can correct it by modifying your original post.

[Carlton green]

Thankyou for all your helpful comments so far specially about my spelling. Seized of course not ceased.

This wonderful forum is a place of help . As for spelling my experience - which at times has been painful or costly - is that correct spelling does matter (as otherwise meaning is either lost or damaged). I try to reread my own posts and often find some error to correct or clarification to be made.

Autocorrect is a bustard. You can correct it by modifying your original post.

At times ‘auto correct’ seems to be misnamed.

We’ve got by with the wrong spelling, but for others to later benefit from this thread (via the search function) the tittle in the original post should be corrected. Please.

[simonineaston]

By the time the participants in this thread have finished with them, ceased is exactly what they'll be

You beat me to it, I was just working up a humorous reply, centrered around the famous dead parrot sketch... however I bet a combination of PlusGas, heat & a hefty puller will do the trick.

[RickH]

At times ‘auto correct’ seems to be misnamed.

I generally refer to it as "auto-mangle"!

[plancashire]

At times ‘auto correct’ seems to be misnamed.

I generally refer to it as "auto-mangle"!

Auto-corrupt?

[Stradageek]

If the threads aren't completely ripped out you might try a Unior Tapered Crank Puller https://uniortools.com/eng/product/1662 ... ank-puller

I've used one of these with success on stripped threads in the past.

This tool has never failed me yet

[Brucey]

this problem is not uncommon. Typically the BB spindle finishes some 2-3mm shy of the end of the square taper in the crank. If so, it may be possible to use 'rubbodraulics' (see my post for details) to usefully help release a crank with damaged extractor threads. The procedure is as follows;

1) temporarily fill the hole in the BB spindle (eg. using a flat-ended M8x1 grub screw = 'set screw' in U.S. English) so as to make as flat an end as possible to the BB spindle. A suitable screw can easily be made from any M8x1mm threaded crank bolt; just cut the head off and then add a small slot for a screwdriver.

2) fill the square space with rubber. A convenient means of doing this is to cut an old inner tube into small squares; small gaps are OK here, but if there are too many the crank may not release as well.

3) make a square-ended drift. A convenient means of doing this is to use an old BB spindle. Simply grind the sides of one end so as to make a slightly smaller, parallel-sided square end, one that is sized to just enter the crank. Also fill the hole in the end eg. with a crank bolt, secured with epoxy resin. The bolt can be bonded into place, prior to cutting off the surplus/head, and dressing (grinding) the end square.

4) smite the drift into the square space so as to compress the rubber. 'Rubbodraulics' means that each hammer blow on the drift creates a very high hydrostatic pressure in the rubber, helping to release the crank. It is probably a good idea to remove the other crank and brace the BB spindle against a piece of wood or something. It is also a good idea to create a force pulling the crank off; this is fairly easily done with any BB where the spindle can be moved laterally independently of the cups(*), but if push comes to shove the wedging action of a flat blade screwdriver may be sufficient.

(*) which is nearly all of them, if you try hard enough.

The rubber may try to 'leak' at the corners in which case the corners need to be suitably plugged. It is also possible to 'preload' the rubber using a captivating plate, centrally drilled 4-5mm; a closely-fitting flat-ended drift goes in this hole. When this drift is struck, provided the square space is completely filled with rubber, the peak pressure should be dramatically increased. This method also generates a force that releases the crank; to resist this force, it is suggested that the captivating plate is made from steel, at least 6mm in thickness.

[rogerzilla]

I was in a hurry.

[pete75]

They are ex-cranks, they have ceased to be.

[drossall]

Told you the title was correct

[plancashire]

They are ex-cranks, they have ceased to be.

So four arms to fix the chainrings, then? ( X )