Cowsham wrote: 9 May 2025, 3:12pm
Keeping the wheel means a lot of trouble rebuilding onto the new motor -- not practical even if the motor had the same diameter and hole spacing. -- I'd go with the yose pedal sensor -- it's impressively neat and they even give you the tools to remove the left hand crank -- it's easy peasy -- also they include the tools to remove the cassette -- even a full set of Allen keys -- I had mine done in one hour -- and I have witnesses.
No what I'd like to be able to do is just replace the wheel new for old but not use the new parts other than the wheel. It's only the controller I would have to be concerned about. In that will my existing set up be powerful enough to run the new motor. I have all the necessary tools and a new pedal sensor coming. As advice suggested that the magnetic disc was the problem.
If it comes to it and I have to use all the components then it's just a bit more work.
No I wouldn't mix one company's controller with another's wheel ( motor ) I don't know that they would be compatible and it's probably very difficult to find out.
The instructions for that particular controller says it's compatible with any 36v battery so it's a great start -- means you get to keep the profiled battery.
"Lifted like a kite from the ground both wind and string we need."
Cowsham wrote: 9 May 2025, 3:12pm
Keeping the wheel means a lot of trouble rebuilding onto the new motor -- not practical even if the motor had the same diameter and hole spacing. -- I'd go with the yose pedal sensor -- it's impressively neat and they even give you the tools to remove the left hand crank -- it's easy peasy -- also they include the tools to remove the cassette -- even a full set of Allen keys -- I had mine done in one hour -- and I have witnesses.
No what I'd like to be able to do is just replace the wheel new for old but not use the new parts other than the wheel. It's only the controller I would have to be concerned about. In that will my existing set up be powerful enough to run the new motor. I have all the necessary tools and a new pedal sensor coming. As advice suggested that the magnetic disc was the problem.
If it comes to it and I have to use all the components then it's just a bit more work.
No I wouldn't mix one company's controller with another's wheel ( motor ) I don't know that they would be compatible and it's probably very difficult to find out.
The instructions for that particular controller says it's compatible with any 36v battery so it's a great start -- means you get to keep the profiled battery.
So it looks like I have to work. At least I have options and it'll be interesting plus new components can't be a bad thing.
Someone on Pedelecs sent me a link to a company selling what might be a replacement clutch bearing. I'll have to remove the planetary gears first to see any parts ID.
No what I'd like to be able to do is just replace the wheel new for old but not use the new parts other than the wheel. It's only the controller I would have to be concerned about. In that will my existing set up be powerful enough to run the new motor. I have all the necessary tools and a new pedal sensor coming. As advice suggested that the magnetic disc was the problem.
If it comes to it and I have to use all the components then it's just a bit more work.
No I wouldn't mix one company's controller with another's wheel ( motor ) I don't know that they would be compatible and it's probably very difficult to find out.
The instructions for that particular controller says it's compatible with any 36v battery so it's a great start -- means you get to keep the profiled battery.
So it looks like I have to work. At least I have options and it'll be interesting plus new components can't be a bad thing.
Someone on Pedelecs sent me a link to a company selling what might be a replacement clutch bearing. I'll have to remove the planetary gears first to see any parts ID.
If it's cheap enough you could buy the clutch and try it in -- if that doesn't work you can go for the kit. Just while I remember -- yose supply all the reduction gear bits for inside their hubs ie the plastic sprockets that eventually wear out.
"Lifted like a kite from the ground both wind and string we need."
No I wouldn't mix one company's controller with another's wheel ( motor ) I don't know that they would be compatible and it's probably very difficult to find out.
The instructions for that particular controller says it's compatible with any 36v battery so it's a great start -- means you get to keep the profiled battery.
So it looks like I have to work. At least I have options and it'll be interesting plus new components can't be a bad thing.
Someone on Pedelecs sent me a link to a company selling what might be a replacement clutch bearing. I'll have to remove the planetary gears first to see any parts ID.
If it's cheap enough you could buy the clutch and try it in -- if that doesn't work you can go for the kit. Just while I remember -- yose supply all the reduction gear bits for inside their hubs ie the plastic sprockets that eventually wear out.
The part arrived the other day and I fitted it today. Took the bike out for a 10 miler which involved some hills nearing home. The motor cut out but I think that may be down to over heating.
I have a wheely suitcase attached to my pannier which carries three locks weighing possibly 6k plus some shopping and my weight of roughly 100k. Other than that the part though not an exact copy of the original but a newer version of it seems to be doing it's job.
It might also be the motor is coming to it's own end as it's done 10800 miles. When I went to buy the Yose set it was no longer available. For now I will see how the new part gets on and hopefully I'll get a good few miles out of it.
It's been a learning journey and fun tinkering about with things I know very little of. Onward and upwards and remember. When you reach the top of a hill there's always another one after you go down it.
Have you reset the BMS software. Often performed by briefly chargeing the battery at it's output terminal observing the correct polarity. This cured a fault with my Tongsheng. Simple to do.
My Tongsheng mid drive has been going for 12,000 miles on our tandem. Hoping for years more life from it.
Peugeot 531 pro, Dawes Discovery Tandem, Dawes Kingpin X2, Raleigh 20 stowaway X2, 1965 Moulton deluxe, Falcon K2 MTB dropped bar tourer, Rudge Bi frame folder, Longstaff trike conversion on a Giant XTC 840, Giant Bowery, Apollo transition.
I also have the Yose power kit and am impressed with it.
I had a similar sounding problem to you and it turned out to be the wiring loom. I am not trying to diagnose your problem.
The plug you showed looks very similar to the plug from my rear wheel. If it is the same them comparing all the other plugs with what is available online for parts.
The crankcase sensor is one of the more delicate parts.
Yose do sell some used systems so a rear wheel from them might be an option.
Yose Power Germany are now selling an updated system called the A3 that does seem better. It is 400 euros and I think that they ship to the UK.
Keith Edwards I do not care about spelling and grammar
rjb wrote: 30 May 2025, 7:33am
Have you reset the BMS software. Often performed by briefly chargeing the battery at it's output terminal observing the correct polarity. This cured a fault with my Tongsheng. Simple to do.
My Tongsheng mid drive has been going for 12,000 miles on our tandem. Hoping for years more life from it.
You'd need to be very sure of what you are doing cos charging from the output could result in a fire -- even after a successful charging event on the output terminals and even when charging the correct way through the bms plug cos the damage has already been done ( a ticking time bomb )
"Lifted like a kite from the ground both wind and string we need."
