Can't decide between 3 bikes

[AlexG79]

Hi all,

New to the forum. Looking to get back into cycling after a 20 year gap. Signed up for Cycle2Work and just waiting on my voucher coming through (probably arrive mid November so not long now).

I've narrowed it down to 3 bikes, all by Boardman and was looking for people's thoughts. I'll mostly be riding on gravel tracks, cycle paths and some roads (not too much roads because the roads in my area are mostly national speed limit and drivers are insane!).

Boardman MHT 8.6 (https://www.halfords.com/bikes/mountain ... 65950.html)
Boardman MHT 8.8 (https://www.halfords.com/bikes/mountain ... 89374.html)
Boardman MHT 8.9 (https://www.halfords.com/bikes/mountain ... 89326.html)

All 3 are the older models not the newest versions (don't know if that makes a difference). I know a gravel / adventure bike would maybe suit where I'm riding better, but I've never been comfortable riding with the dropped handlebars.

Hope someone can help.

Alex

[peetee]

It’s not clear if these bikes are advertised at their original price but if they are older models I would expect to see some discount applied to the RRP around this time of the year. I’d make some enquiries to establish if waiting a couple of weeks or so will make a difference.

[pjclinch]

I hear what you're saying about drop bars, because though I was happy on them for about 20 years of riding little else I'm happier doing without now: there's nothing particularly about drop bars that makes them especially suitable for the riding you're aiming at, but gravel bikes tend to be marketed to people who are more likely to ride and like drops from their road use, so that's what most models have.

It is possible to buy a gravel/adventure bike without drop bars though, and if you're not planning on doing mountain bike stuff (e.g., drop-offs, rock gardens) then a mountain bike is heavier than you need and harder work. Consequently I'd look for a flat-bar gravel bike rather than an MTB. Modern MTBs are more specialised beasts than they were > 20 years ago, at least some flat-bar gravel bikes are very similar to 90s MTBs in overall style, but bigger wheels with disc brakes and without triple chainwheels.

Pete.

[PH]

What Pete says, though I'd add that the difference between flat bar gravel and hybrid is blurred. For the sort of use you describe, a bit of everything, something like the Boardman HYB 8.6 looks fine and is only £480. Something like the Carrera Subway is even cheaper, possibly a little more capable off road, maybe at the cost of less so on. IMO both would be better suited to your use than an MTB. I don't have either of these bikes, but I've ridden in groups alongside both, on the sorts of rides that include a bit of everything.
OTOH - I recall a similar discussion with a work colleague some years ago, he ignored it, went on to buy a decent Voodoo MTB and has been happy with it since. Whatever advice you get, it's you that has to like the bike you end up with.

[rotavator]

Like the previous posters suggest, I think that you need to ask yourself: "Do I really need a suspension fork?". Unless you want to go fast on rough tracks, jumping roots and rocks etc. you don't need one IMHO and you could save yourself some weight, maintenance and money by doing without. So may be have a look at flat barred bikes with an ordinary fork which used to be called (very unfashionable) hybrids but may be renamed as flat barred (fashionable) gravel bikes. If you live somewhere hilly I would also be careful to choose a bike with low gears.

[pjclinch]

If you live somewhere hilly I would also be careful to choose a bike with low gears.

I think low gears are always a good idea on a bike that will be going off-road. What would be an easy slope on tarmac can be a real ooomph-sucker on grass and soft mud generally works better if you're a range of low gears you can keep turning in the seat. Off road tracks can be more inclined to short, sharp steep bits, particularly single-track.

Pete.

[AlexG79]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll take a look at some of the Hybrid bikes. Got a few weeks before I have to decide, so plenty of time to shop around.

Thanks guys.

[Nearholmer]

If you can find a “flat bar gravel bike” or a flat bar “adventure bike”, in your price range, that would be well worth looking at too.

The distinction from hybrids is subtle in the extreme, almost invisible, but ones sold under those labels certainly tend to be plenty robust, and to have the low gears you need off-road, whereas some hybrids are “road” or “city” geared. Most hybrids these days are derived from MTB geometry, whereas “flat bar gravel bikes” tend to have road-bike-ish geometry, but as I say, the distinctions are decidedly fuzzy.

I’ve got an earlier model of this one, which I use pretty much as most people used rigid MTBs 30+ years ago, and it is a very nippy and agile bike, as well as being comfy for long cross-country trundles. It might not be exactly what you want (for one thing it’s a bit pricey unless, as I did, you can find it in a sale), but the general form is a good one.

https://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/product/ ... /GN10510LG

[Ferrij]

Like others have suggested, unless you are going to ride trails then a hybrid may suit you better. I have a Boardman MHT8.9 latest model which is ok, though the Recon fork wasn’t great ( mine has been upgraded to a Psylo which has improved it a lot).
If a hardtail mtb is your preference then go for the Voodoo Bizango Pro which is cheaper at £950 (or less) and has the Psylo as standard, and has good reviews.
My daughter has an MTX hybrid which is noticeably lighter and faster on the terrain you are looking at.

[Cowsham]

Pick a bike with
1. Rigid forks ( with rack mount points ) you don't need suspension on gravel and if you ever do need suspension on a bike you'll need the good stuff.

2. Capacity to fit up to 2.5" tyres but make sure you take into consideration the wall height of the tyre as mudguards are another essential especially coming into winter time - this is the most important bit cos you need something that's sure footed and the bigger tyres ( taller walled tyres ) will give the comfort you'll need.


3. A decent group set shimano XT or the like -- although this is not the top of the list of essential criteria just nice to have.

4. Flat bars give you better control as the brakes and gears are separate. Thinking of shimano where the ergonomics allow you to be covering the brake levers while changing gear. This is not as easy with drop bars as you're having to change your finger position to change gear so could potentially be dangerous.

5. Good fixing lugs to hang stuff off ( panniers, mudguards, water bottles etc )

[Nearholmer]

^^^

There’s a lot of good logic in there, but it’s going to be quite hard to find bikes that meet the spec at what appears to be the OP’s price point, isnt it?

The On-one Boot Zipper might.

The one trouble with the spec, I’d suggest, is that such fat tyres tend to imply very bulgy chain-stays, which in turn often mean a tiddly chainring on a 1x setup, and resultant frustratingly low speed on road and easy bits. It’s all a matter of how bumpy you want to go, at what level of discomfort, but I’d settle for narrower (40-45mm) tyres, a bigger chainring, and hence a higher “road” speed.

[Cowsham]

The one trouble with the spec, I’d suggest, is that such fat tyres tend to imply very bulgy chain-stays, which in turn often mean a tiddly chainring on a 1x setup, and resultant frustratingly low speed on road and easy bits. It’s all a matter of how bumpy you want to go, at what level of discomfort, but I’d settle for narrower (40-45mm) tyres, a bigger chainring, and hence a higher “road” speed.

I'd agree a 1.75" or 2" tyre is wide as I'd want to go + mudguards hence the extra room I'd want. A good long chainstay means less chance of heal strike on panniers -- depends what you want it for though -- a small pannier for work or a bit of touring for a couple of weeks.

The lack of suspension forks means a lighter bike and for me the more positive steering which I like. Steering geometry changes if you do depress the forks in a big moment so can alter the steering rake enough to cause an unexpected over or under steer resulting in an off.

[Brucey]

....4. Flat bars give you better control as the brakes and gears are separate. Thinking of shimano where the ergonomics allow you to be covering the brake levers while changing gear. This is not as easy with drop bars as you're having to change your finger position to change gear so could potentially be dangerous.....

please explain; I'm no great lover of shimano STIs etc. either, even so, I am not at all sure I agree.

[Nearholmer]

FWIW, which may be nothing, I find that when riding on the hoods I play all sorts of tunes on the brakes and gears without even thinking about it, using my index and middle finger to brake, and my third finger to change gear, and don’t feel Im losing control of either brakes or gears. But, when (rarely in my case) in the drops it isn’t quite so easy, changing gear with the third finger doesn’t quite work, and I probably wouldn’t seek to change gear if any tricky stuff was going on that needed very careful braking. This is with hydraulic brakes, and it might be that with cable brakes which need more hand force things are a bit different.

I used to find the SRAM system intuitive too, but I’m out of practice with it now, so when I ride my BiL’s (formerly my) bike which has it, I get in a right tangle!

[rareposter]

FWIW, which may be nothing, I find that when riding on the hoods I play all sorts of tunes on the brakes and gears without even thinking about it, using my index and middle finger to brake, and my third finger to change gear, and don’t feel Im losing control of either brakes or gears. But, when (rarely in my case) in the drops it isn’t quite so easy, changing gear with the third finger doesn’t quite work, and I probably wouldn’t seek to change gear if any tricky stuff was going on that needed very careful braking. This is with hydraulic brakes, and it might be that with cable brakes which need more hand force things are a bit different.

I used to find the SRAM system intuitive too, but I’m out of practice with it now, so when I ride my BiL’s (formerly my) bike which has it, I get in a right tangle!

I've got a bike with Shimano Di2, one with SRAM AXS and one with Shimano mechanical. First time riding with mechanical in a while last week and that really took some getting used to again! What do you mean I can't just tap a button?!

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll take a look at some of the Hybrid bikes. Got a few weeks before I have to decide, so plenty of time to shop around.

Good call and second the comments about a flat bar hybrid (or gravel bike or tourer or whatever else you want to call it).

Riding a modern MTB around on simple / basic trails, canal towpaths etc just feels horrible and inefficient. Much better off on a gravel bike (with flat or drop bars according to preference).