Sturmey Archer hub flanges

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rjb
Posts: 8427
Joined: 11 Jan 2007, 10:25am
Location: Somerset (originally 60/70's Plymouth)

Sturmey Archer hub flanges

Post by rjb »

What do you think of this mod. Match your AW hub to any rim by fitting a flange with the correct drilling.
Looks like copper rivets.
Copied from a Facebook thread.
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Peugeot 531 pro, Dawes Discovery Tandem, Dawes Kingpin X2, Raleigh 20 stowaway X2, 1965 Moulton deluxe, Falcon K2 MTB dropped bar tourer, Rudge Bi frame folder, Longstaff trike conversion on a Giant XTC 840, Giant Bowery, Apollo transition. :D
Carlton green
Posts: 5386
Joined: 22 Jun 2019, 12:27pm

Re: Sturmey Archer hub flanges

Post by Carlton green »

rjb wrote: 11 Dec 2025, 10:06pm What do you think of this mod. Match your AW hub to any rim by fitting a flange with the correct drilling.
Looks like copper rivets.
Copied from a Facebook thread.
FB_IMG_17654903301751070.jpg
Though I can envisage applications I’m not certain that this isn’t a solution looking for a problem, These adaptors won’t be cheap to buy and they’ll take a time to fit too; in terms of being cost effective that’s not a good start. I wonder about the number of crosses to use in spoking, less than normal as otherwise the rim to spoke angle becomes excessive?

iirc, in case needed, there has been at least one thread about lacing wheels where rim and hub have differing numbers of spoke holes.
Don’t fret, it’s OK to: ride a simple old bike; ride slowly, walk, rest and admire the view; ride off-road; ride in your raincoat; ride by yourself; ride in the dark; and ride one hundred yards or one hundred miles. Your bike and your choices to suit you.
Brucey
Posts: 48780
Joined: 4 Jan 2012, 6:25pm

Re: Sturmey Archer hub flanges

Post by Brucey »

oddly enough I have been thinking along similar lines, being no stranger to making and fitting my own hub flanges. I would argue that the copper rivets are complete overkill, because any loads are likely to be shared; Al rivets or an adhesive bond would probably suffice.

My proposed route would see ~3mm flanges made by SGing ~4mm thickness Al. This 'extra thickness' does two things;

1) it makes it easy to incorporate a 'belt and braces' joggle feature, allowing complete functionality, even in the event of joint failure. This design has been used with previous (welded) flanges, but ought to work equally well with riveted or bonded flanges.

2) a small groove can be made at the new spoke drilling PCD. This helps with accurate hole placement, even in the absence of a dividing head.

Again this feature has been used previously. After the flange has been drilled for the spokes, the groove can simply be machined away, leaving the flange the correct thickness. IME tapping SA flanges M3 is very easy indeed, allowing you to go belt, braces, and another belt, by including a few M3 screws in there, too.
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rogerzilla
Posts: 3249
Joined: 9 Jun 2008, 8:06pm

Re: Sturmey Archer hub flanges

Post by rogerzilla »

36h and 28h AW shells are easy to get, and most A-series internals can go into them, so it's only 32h wheels, or maybe that problem 40h ASC you've been itching to try, that would benefit.
Brucey
Posts: 48780
Joined: 4 Jan 2012, 6:25pm

Re: Sturmey Archer hub flanges

Post by Brucey »

there are several different ways by which a 32h rim can be built onto a 40h hub. None are particularly difficult. However, Al (thick/soft) is much preferable (in many respects) vs. steel for a flange; it is certainly more compatible with modern spokes; I have even resorted to using two washers per spoke; Al flanges would have been considerably easier/better.
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