Advice please regarding this Cube Bike

[rareposter]

I would advise anyone buying a Cube to expect high service costs as the dealers see them as good money spinners and conveniently, the Flow App prompts you when maintenance is due.

e-bikes are always going to be more expensive than unpowered ones - mechanically they're the same as any other bike in terms of chain, brake pads etc although you do tend to go through these consumables a bit more quickly than on an unpowered bike.

If the dealer plugged the bike in, you should have a diagnostics printout telling you what was done.

Last time mine was plugged in, it cost £10 and took about 10 mins. However I did have a service that was

The app, with the service intervals, is set by the dealer and the "distance to service" is mostly designed to force the rider to keep any eye on the chain because it's easy for it to go well beyond 0.75% wear and that will necessitate a very expensive replacement of the entire drivetrain. It does also feed into the motor warranty.

[arnsider]

Well, I ran my Whyte Conston E Bike, fitted with a basic Shimano Steps motor for nearly 14,000 miles and used standard chains, not specific to E bikes. I don't remember being that paranoid about chain wear.
I went from a ten speed to a nine speed, because of my prerence for a twist grip shifter, so was onto chain issues.
I do confer with you about this requirement and intend to be more diligent with my Cube.
It might have been more helpful if Cube had specified the number of links in their online specification , instead of just "Chain KMC eGlide", which tells you nothing. In the event, I bought a TAYA Onze chain, but it only had 120 links, whereas I counted 132 and had to re order.
I don't remember getting a computer read out on my 600 mile service. For what I was charged, Should I have?
A few years back, I bought a Kinesis T2 Racelight from a well known Bike shop in Leyland.
I was given a full sheaf of Shimano Data sheets and other fitted items. This was priceless and enabled me to order parts with confidence.

[pjclinch]

Given one of the upsides of e-bikes is you're getting some help, and the principle downsides of internal hub gears are weight and relative inefficiency which can easily be overcome with some e-help, it strikes me that e-bikes are well suited to internal hub gears over derailleurs. And hub gears are well suited to belt drive, which saves one a lot of worrying about chains.

Belts are more expensive to buy and replace but they ought to last a lot longer, so perhaps worth considering belt/hub gear options when speccing out an e-bike.

Pete.

[arnsider]

Well, I just fitted a new chain to my Cube. It was okay, but joining the two quick link halves was very awkward on account the deraileur was very stiff and the spring very strong.
The worst bit was pulling the chain guard out of the way of the chain wheel, so I could guide the new chain over.
The chain guard is held by two tiny short grub screws that are a pain to locate and are soft and poor quality.
In the even, I gave up trying to locate the underside screw. They both have hexagon heads and I butchered the top one trying to get the hex key in the slot.
I am wondering if the guard could be dispenced with altogether or a work over fitting with decent size screws might be the answer. As already reported, my chain came off on a wet ride and thankfullyu I was able to feed the chain in from below, winding the cranks backward to pull the chain back over.
My previous Whyte Coniston had none of this faff and new chains and chain offs were easy

[arnsider]

If as rareposter says, Chain wear is critical on E bikes, then why are we manufacturing chains from poor quality steel which isn't fit for purpose? I can see how off roading wears chains quickly, but on road touring should not require a shell out every 1500 miles, including costly labour which seems to be the downside of E bike oiwnership.
No wonder the dealers plug "Gravel" Bikes to people with deep popckets.

[arnsider]

Well, I contacted Cube at their Gloucester office recounting the problems I experioenced with removing the chain guard in the way of feeding a new chain over the top of the chainwheel and asking them to supply a couple of screws to re do the job. I conceded I used the wrong tool to loosen the tiny top and bottom screw, using a hex bit rather than the newer Torx driver and that explains why I butchered the top screw. I don't know where the bottom screw flew.Perhaps I should have taken the job to a watch repairer
This was their reply;
"Unfortunately the screws are not available as a replacement part, so if you would like replacements then you will need to purchase a replacement chainguard cover. These are available to order for £12.50, from us or your local Cube dealer. The product code is 4378"
I make no comment.

[rareposter]

If as rareposter says, Chain wear is critical on E bikes, then why are we manufacturing chains from poor quality steel which isn't fit for purpose?

Your bike has a CUES drivetrain which uses what Shimano call LinkGlide. It's a far more durable drivetrain than the original HyperGlide, it was developed specifically for e-bikes (although it's also found a home on a lot of entry level hybrids, road bikes, gravel bikes etc cos it's broadly very simple and widely cross compatible).

It uses an 11sp chain - the Cube seems to come with a KMC one rather than the original Shimano one but it's all compatible, it shouldn't make any difference. Contrary to popular belief, 11sp is the best option for durability because it can flex more than a cheap heavy old 7sp thing and it's got tighter engineering tolerances and better materials..

A few points:
Chains are consumable items, no matter how well you treat them, they will eventually wear out and trying to extend that life is a false economy. Part of the Bosch service interval stuff on the app is a reminder to check the chain because mid-drive e-bikes wear chains more quickly than unpowered bikes, especially if you're just leaving it in a high gear and relying on the motor to do the work.
Lubrication remains a critical part of chain care. Any chain, no matter how good, will suffer very quickly if it is run dry or with poor lube.
Buy good quality, legitimate chains from known reliable shops that have direct Shimano accounts. Fake chains (from the likes of AliExpress etc) are unfortunately rife and they are appalling - they can wreck the entire drivetrain in very short order but people see a chain at discount price and go "ooh, bargain!" No, it is not, it will be a nightmare to use and it'll wear out rapidly.
https://escapecollective.com/tested-rea ... ce-chains/

I believe you bought your bike secondhand, is that correct? It does leave you open to a bit more risk if the previous owner neglected their drivetrain in any way.

Re the chainguard - take the thing off. It's a horrible lump of plastic designed to stop your trouser legs getting caught and doing absolutely nothing to protect the chain from dirt. It's wholly unnecessary and (as you've found) just makes replacing the chain bloody difficult!

Hope that's useful.

[arnsider]

Well, thank you for that and I can follow your logic. I fitted a TAYA ONZE 111 chain and from all accounts this brand is as good as KMC. I bought my Cube new on a part exchange deal. The screws that fix the guard are available in quantity from Amazon, but I may well take your advice and dispence with the guard altogether. It is an absolute liability especially for inexperienced riders who might "throw" their chain, out on the road and will really struggle to re fit it as was my experience in pouring rain on a muddy road. As for the screw fittings to the guard, I hold by what I said. They are a design flaw and demand the skill and patience of a watch maker, not an amateur mechanic in less than optimal conditions. A push fit plug would have been a far better solution.

[arnsider]

I used the correct Torx 10 driver on the top screw and it is now secure. I hadn't butchered the slot as feared.
I found the bottom screw on the concrete floor and since the guard now felt quite firm and hadn't rattled with just one screw, I put the found one to spare. I have to say that for Cube to maintain I totally replaced the guard and screws rather than them supplying a couple of screws is not very environmentally sound or economical for the owner.
In the event, Amazon will sell you zillions of these tiny screws for pence!!

[rareposter]

I have to say that for Cube to maintain I totally replaced the guard and screws rather than them supplying a couple of screws is not very environmentally sound or economical for the owner.

But it's not economical for them (even if they have stock of those tiny screws which I doubt, it'll all come as part of the chainguard package). No-one is going to send you a few tiny screws or a little rubber grommet or any one of the other 1001 tiny "things" on a bike.

In the event, Amazon will sell you zillions of these tiny screws for pence!!

Apart of course from Amazon who have the financial clout to do things like that and simply absorb the loss.

Most bike shops also have drawers full of tiny screws and bolts and nuts and washers as well, it's often worth popping in and seeing what a mechanic can rustle up from the back.

[arnsider]

Really!
I recall an instance many years ago when a Hewlett Packard 33E programmable calculator I had bought second hand packed up. The guys I worked with were all HP fans and suggested I write to them (No Emails back then).
A few weeks later HP replied requesting I pack the instrument up and send it to the UK office.
No long after, I got it back, free of charge, with a completely new keyboard and a compliments note.
There was no warranty involved since I had bought it used. HP just did these things to maintain good faith with their customers. They understood the value of customer relations. Regardless of your cynical logic, Cube have gone down in my estimation.

[arnsider]

Moving on from tyrying to live with the Cube Chain Guard as supplied, it maybe possible to fit a retrofit plastic guard that attaches soley to the chain wheel, not the frame/bottom bracket.
As was suggested earlier on, guards are only fitted really to keep clothing from either getting caught up in the mechanism, or to keep crud from soiling clothes. Since modern cycling clothing avoids looseness and flapping, the former is mitigated.

[pjclinch]

... Since modern cycling clothing avoids looseness and flapping, the former is mitigated.

Rather assumes the rider always wears "modern cycle clothing".

Generally I don't, but there again a simple trouser clip or similar, or if you're wearing suitably long socks one can just tuck into those.

Pete.

[arnsider]

I was in town this afternoon and spoke to a guy just chaining up his older model Cube Touring pro 625 watt.
I noticed straight away that his was not fitted with a full chainguard, just a plastic ring slightlly proud of the outside diameter of his chainwheel. Obviously Cube had rethought the later 800 and fitted a fuller guard.
I found a video of a guy who hired the later 625 for a holiday in Lanzeroti and he remarked that the hire company had removed all the guards because of the issues re fitting thrown chains en route.
So cube suppliers are fully aware of this issue and the common sense remedy seems to be removal.

[arnsider]

Here's a link to the video on the Cube 625;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpndPaH5I0A