cotter pins

[Si]

could be worse, Halfords were doing bog standard botle cage bolts: £2.50 for four, last time I was in

[MikewsMITH2]

I've had some trouble with these. They seem to be freely available from the usual old bike sources and ebay. I also got some from my LBDS and SJS have a selection. However prices do vary from cheap to very expensive. The problem I've had is quality. Firstly dropping too far into the crank - You used to haveto file them to fit (which was worse), but mainly being very soft indeed. I know twh yare supposed to be soft to save damaging the axle, but the ones I got from Cycles of Yesteryear were made of the softest steel imaginable and you could strip the threads with a 3" long spanner. The ones from the LBS looked identical andwere I assumefrom the same source, so I pressed these in VERY hard and hammered them as well and did it again after the forst ride and they have been OK since. However I have now bought a quality pair from The Chopper Owners Club. I figured they know about cotter pins for Raleighs, but they were £3.00 EACH! The club officer responsible insists they are of very high quality. They are still in the drawer awaiting gold plating.

[Greybeard]

Only last night I spent a little time in the workshop making a pair for 'Christine' (see TCT bikes ) - simply due to the fact that I have never yet found a good quality new one.
I've altered the design a little so that instead of a protruding 'bolt' that the nut threads on to, I now use a bolt threaded into the 'wedge' section. All in stainless steel and polished, naturally It now means that for removal, intead of risking damage to the ends of the thread, no matter how careful you are, I can use a brass drift into the bottom of the threaded hole where it can do no damage at all to the thread.
Personally, I think that they look much neater than the usual one, and each one can be custom made to fit the crank/axle so that an even amount protrudes on each side - I love attention to detail Takes a little longer, but worth the effort



The crank looks quite tatty in close-up don't it? It's nowhere near as bad in real life.... Going to have to get that re-chromed now

Steve

[groveller]

Now that's what I call quality, well done Greybeard!

[GrahamNR17]

The crank looks quite tatty in close-up don't it? It's nowhere near as bad in real life.... Going to have to get that re-chromed now

Steve

Nah, it's patina, ie character

[GrahamNR17]

I've had some trouble with these. They seem to be freely available from the usual old bike sources and ebay. I also got some from my LBDS and SJS have a selection. However prices do vary from cheap to very expensive. The problem I've had is quality. Firstly dropping too far into the crank - You used to haveto file them to fit (which was worse), but mainly being very soft indeed. I know twh yare supposed to be soft to save damaging the axle, but the ones I got from Cycles of Yesteryear were made of the softest steel imaginable and you could strip the threads with a 3" long spanner. The ones from the LBS looked identical andwere I assumefrom the same source, so I pressed these in VERY hard and hammered them as well and did it again after the forst ride and they have been OK since. However I have now bought a quality pair from The Chopper Owners Club. I figured they know about cotter pins for Raleighs, but they were £3.00 EACH! The club officer responsible insists they are of very high quality. They are still in the drawer awaiting gold plating.

There are several sizes, one for older English bikes, and one for common European bikes. I think it works out at about 0.5mm difference. And the nut just holds it in place, it's not designed to be strong enough to pull it all the way home

...and be careful with hammers, you risk bifurcating the BB bearings

[rjb]

...and be careful with hammers, you risk bifurcating the BB bearings

Thats why the advice used to be to support the crank on a wooden block off the ground before hammering the cotter pins so as to protect the bottom bracket bearings

[MikewsMITH2]

And the nut just holds it in place, it's not designed to be strong enough to pull it all the way home

Yes I know that and pressed them in with a socket and a huge G cramp and a helper tube to get them really tight. However even a mild steel thread should be able to withstand hand tightening with a standard open ended spanner. When I was a kid I didn't have any means of pressing them in and used to file them carefully and pull them tight with the nut, so I still reckon the new ones are inferior. Getting them out was always a trial - many times I've drilled them out, but never had a problem getting them tight enough before. Now they are in and have been out in the rain, I expect they are already well and truly seized up!

[random37]

I made a cotter press from an aincient, tiny vice and a socket.

1. Hold the socket over the non-threaded end of the cotterpin
2. Tighten the vice down between the cotterpin and the socket.
3. Tighten some more.
4. Cotterpin comes out.

Piece of cake, and not a murdered bearing in sight.

[hubgearfreak]

that's about my method chris. except, i do it with the bench vice, and i find the hanging end of the tool in the picture easier to hold around the none threaded end than a socket would be

[GrahamNR17]

I made a cotter press from an aincient, tiny vice and a socket.

1. Hold the socket over the non-threaded end of the cotterpin
2. Tighten the vice down between the cotterpin and the socket.
3. Tighten some more.
4. Cotterpin comes out.

Piece of cake, and not a murdered bearing in sight.

Superb, and so obvious!

Well, it was well worth getting up today, I've actually learned something new and useful - nice one Chris

[Greybeard]

Mmmm. Yet another metric adjustable, eh? I've been looking for an Imperial one for years

Steve

[GrahamNR17]

Mmmm. Yet another metric adjustable, eh? I've been looking for an Imperial one for years

Steve

That was dreadful

[GrahamNR17]

Well I'll be....... you're absolutely right. I've just been through all my cotter pins, from the 5 quid a dozen cheapies to the fiver a pair, and they're all junk, differing sizes and un-flat flat bits

Anyone found a reliable source of supply for anything any good?

[Mick F]

...... Anyone found a reliable source of supply for anything any good?

Leave this with me, I'm sure a certain person could produce some. I'll be seeing him this evening ...........

I have a cotter pin or two as pattern pieces.
(though they are bashed about a bit!)

Correct me if I'm wrong - most usually do! - I've had little to do with Cotter Pins for many years, and if my memory serves me correctly, you usually had to file the flat a little to make the threads poke out far enough. Or then again, some were too thin and the threads came out too far. Either way, there must be a specific/definite/correct size for them, and the cheapo stuff is out of tolerance.

Is there a "Standard Size" or "Standard Design"??

Also:
What material would be best?
SS would be too hard?
Brass would be nice, but not tough enough?

Get back to me soonest, and I'll tap Paul with a beer or two!