togglechaintour bikes

[robc02]

I'll probably gut the lamp and put an LED light and batteries in it at some stage.

Gut the lamp and put an LED light in it but - gasp - batteries??? BATTERIES???

Go on, a man of your talent can get the GH6 working - you know it makes sense. As a last resort you could always fit a bottle dynamo. Together with B&M lights, with standlights of course, inside your period housings and you're close to self contained illuminated heaven.

[GrahamNR17]

I'll probably gut the lamp and put an LED light and batteries in it at some stage.

Go on, a man of your talent can get the GH6 working - you know it makes sense.

I can't get the dynamo side cone to lock It has a 'hat' over it, and the lock not clamps to that, but that makes the hat turn, which turns the cone in. It's not like on hub gears which I understand

[robc02]

I can't get the dynamo side cone to lock It has a 'hat' over it, and the lock not clamps to that, but that makes the hat turn, which turns the cone in. It's not like on hub gears which I understand

I've dismantled and reassembled an FG several times and seem to remember an indented ring around the dynamo side cone against which a washer and the locknut pressed. The ring needed to be held still with a special tool (or a pair of long nosed pliers) while the locknut was tightened. It was a bit awkward but could be done with a bit of trial and error.

I could be leading you up the garden path here because I haven't done the same job on a GH6. However, I do have one in my shed so I will go and have a look tomorrow.

[robc02]

I can't get the dynamo side cone to lock It has a 'hat' over it, and the lock not clamps to that, but that makes the hat turn, which turns the cone in. It's not like on hub gears which I understand

I see what you mean. I've just had a look at mine and the dynamo side cone and lockring arrangement is different to that of the FG.

The "hat" seems to be a spacer with no means of gripping and turning the cone. The cone is meant to be tightened as far as possible onto the axle - until it runs out of thread. The magnet, spacer and locknut are then fitted. All adjustment is done from the other side.

I imagine your dynamo side locknut has been loosened at some point, and in the process the cone has been loosened a bit as well. If you loosen the cone on the other side you should be able to tighten the dynamo side lockring fully - hopefully it will take the cone to the end of the thread at the same time, but I don't suppose it is critical if it doesn't as long as the assembly is locked.Then you can readjust the cone on the other side.

I'm sure you know that the dynamo magnet and armature mustn't be separated. If you need to access the cone you can easily remove the whole dynamo assembly by removing the nuts that fasten the magnet to the hub shell. Remove the non-dynamo side cone etc and gently tap the axle through. The magnetic attraction between the parts will hold them together - just watch carefully to make sure the magnet doesn't jam inside the hub and become separated from the armature.

I got an exploded view from the Tony Hadland book but have just found this which is clearer and has instructions as well!

Happy tinkering

[GrahamNR17]

I can't get the dynamo side cone to lock It has a 'hat' over it, and the lock not clamps to that, but that makes the hat turn, which turns the cone in. It's not like on hub gears which I understand

I got an exploded view from the Tony Hadland book but have just found this which is clearer and has instructions as well!

Happy tinkering

Thanks Rob, all sorted thanks to you. Once I read the note in the instructions about post-April 1952 having the fixed cone on the dyno side, I could work out where I was going wrong. Mine's a 1948. I also added a thin washer with a hole the shape of the flatted axle, so was able to tighten the dyno side lock nut without turning the 'hat' and cone beneath it. I just have to decrypt the wiring instructions now

[random37]

Hope so, it would certainly be the last bike I'd sell if I had to. It would probably win over the car if push came to shove. It's a joy to ride, a proper joy. I'll never have another Raleigh though, I'd be too disappointed with it after this thing

Graham, wot ackcherly likes a Raleigh

It was an amazing bike, Graham, but you have made it perfect.

[robc02]

I have seen a number of A-16GC or 16GC Raleigh Bottom Bracket spindles for sale but have been unable to get reliable looking dimensions from the sellers. Have any of you steel rule or vernier wielding types got one you could measure for me - as per the diagram below?

The axle is for my Humber. It came with one with a 61mm centre section that was too long. It now has a cheap, black finished, aftermarket spindle - I think its 35-57-44mm or thereabouts and it fits OK, so I am now looking out for an original.
I am a bit puzzled about why some RI bicycles used 51mm centres and others 57mm. Were there different BB shell widths or is it to do with the thickness of the cups?

[GrahamNR17]

I have seen a number of A-16GC or 16GC Raleigh Bottom Bracket spindles for sale but have been unable to get reliable looking dimensions from the sellers. Have any of you steel rule or vernier wielding types got one you could measure for me - as per the diagram below?

RaleighBB1.jpg

The axle is for my Humber. It came with one with a 61mm centre section that was too long. It now has a cheap, black finished, aftermarket spindle - I think its 35-57-44mm or thereabouts and it fits OK, so I am now looking out for an original.
I am a bit puzzled about why some RI bicycles used 51mm centres and others 57mm. Were there different BB shell widths or is it to do with the thickness of the cups?

I'll go measure some now, but do you need the A-16GC or the 16GC (different?).

[GrahamNR17]

Random grabs from my private stash of new ones:

I have no idea if these were made on a Monday/Friday, traditionally the days with highest "sick" days by British workers, and thus 'rushed' through manufacture by the skeleton staff!

Marking - A - B - C

16GC - 32.7 - 54.7 - 46.6
16GC - 33.3 - 54.3 - 47.2
A16GC - 32.2 - 55.4 - 46.3
A16GC - 33.4 - 55.2 - 46.5
RI22 - 40.2 - 54.3 - 48.1

I have an A16 round here somewhere that was much different, as used on Clubman/Lenton etc. I seem to recall it's much shorter, but I can't lay my hands on it at the moment.

I hope you weren't expecting anything on a Raleigh to be repeatably accurate.

[robc02]

do you need the A-16GC or the 16GC (different?)

I don't know because the bike didn't come with an original one. I was hoping your measurements would enable me to decide!

If your measurements are typical then there's not much difference between them, just about a millimetre in the centre section. It makes you wonder why they bothered with both types.

Thanks.

[GrahamNR17]

do you need the A-16GC or the 16GC (different?)

I don't know because the bike didn't come with an original one. I was hoping your measurements would enable me to decide!

If your measurements are typical then there's not much difference between them, just about a millimetre in the centre section. It makes you wonder why they bothered with both types.

Thanks.

A16GC or 16GC will be perfect for your Nottingham Humber, I seem to remember it had a chaincase. If you need a new one, let me know. I'm busying myself by cleansing the garage of all cottered crap, in case it infects the good stuff with a disease or something.

[robc02]

A16GC or 16GC will be perfect for your Nottingham Humber, I seem to remember it had a chaincase. If you need a new one, let me know. I'm busying myself by cleansing the garage of all cottered crap, in case it infects the good stuff with a disease or something.

Yes, i would like one, please - I'll PM you.

I have similar feelings about err.. cottered crap. I never thought I would own another cottered chainset after I got my first cotterless, a Stronglight 49D in the '70s....but then this Humber came along..... and then my daughter's Viking 3 speed ....... and then my Royal Enfield ladies.

The good news is I am resisting, for the moment anyway, the temptation to fit a cottered set to my Claud Butler. It has a 1990's Campag set at the moment, but I am looking out for a TA Cyclotourist with 175mm cranks. Not quite the right era (the frame is 1948) but an appropriate style.

[Roadstersrevenge]

Graham,
Any cottered "junk" you don't wan't, I'd be delighted to give you beer money for!

[hubgearfreak]

I'm busying myself by cleansing the garage of all cottered crap

don't scrap them, please

[GrahamNR17]

Graham,
Any cottered "junk" you don't wan't, I'd be delighted to give you beer money for!

But the Rudges look so nice in the dustbin