Problem with drum brakes(Trice S)
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- Posts: 54
- Joined: 24 Feb 2012, 8:57pm
Problem with drum brakes(Trice S)
Just wondering if anybody else has had problems with Sturmey Archer drum brakes and freezing weather.
Jumped on the trike for my freezing morning commute this morning,at the first set of traffic lights i encountered i dabbed the brakes which resulted in them locking on and not releasing, i have a feeling due to the wet weather earlier this week i might have got some water in the drums which could have caused this.
anyone any ideas?
Jumped on the trike for my freezing morning commute this morning,at the first set of traffic lights i encountered i dabbed the brakes which resulted in them locking on and not releasing, i have a feeling due to the wet weather earlier this week i might have got some water in the drums which could have caused this.
anyone any ideas?
Trice S 700cc
Optima baron
Optima baron
Re: Problem with drum brakes(Trice S)
It's probably not your drums, but the cables. Unfortunately the run from lever to brake is a perfect U and water can collect at the bottom of the loop. The proximity of the brake lever to the tyre (on my QNT, at least) probably doesn't help.
Solutions are either regular zaps with lubricant (it's fairly easy to do so at the brake end) or fancy sealed cables (no experience of these).
Solutions are either regular zaps with lubricant (it's fairly easy to do so at the brake end) or fancy sealed cables (no experience of these).
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- Posts: 211
- Joined: 3 Jan 2012, 11:24am
- Location: Doncaster
Re: Problem with drum brakes(Trice S)
I agree with Hercule. The drum brakes are pretty much bulletproof and (supposedly) good for 20-30,000 maintenance free miles. I had a similar brake problem on my Trice 'S' (very notchy and the brake was dragging.)
As the brake cable is attached with a barrel type connecter, it's a 2 second job to release it (should this happen to you again). This left me with no left brake until I could clean/lube the cable, but as we Trice owners know, there's no brake steer with an Ice, and they brake surprisingly well on just the one wheel!
As the brake cable is attached with a barrel type connecter, it's a 2 second job to release it (should this happen to you again). This left me with no left brake until I could clean/lube the cable, but as we Trice owners know, there's no brake steer with an Ice, and they brake surprisingly well on just the one wheel!
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- Tigerbiten
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Re: Problem with drum brakes(Trice S)
Last year mine one of my front wheel disk brakes froze in the off position.
To make it even more fun, both brakes are worked from a single lever.
I went to pull them on and nothing ..........
That left me with the rear parking brake as the only means of stopping.
I rode home very slowly ...........
To make it even more fun, both brakes are worked from a single lever.
I went to pull them on and nothing ..........
That left me with the rear parking brake as the only means of stopping.
I rode home very slowly ...........
Re: Problem with drum brakes(Trice S)
I can also add from experience that disk brakes at a different matter. I went for some forest riding on my Kett last winter, in modestly deep snow, and found the brake callipers regularly seizing up with compacted snow. One reason that I don't think disk brakes are an "upgrade" from drums.
Re: Problem with drum brakes(Trice S)
I'd have stuck with drums if I hadn't wanted the dynamo hub on my trike.
cables are a likely suspect, drink brakes are sufficiently simple that maintenance is done with, well actually you just don't need any.
cables are a likely suspect, drink brakes are sufficiently simple that maintenance is done with, well actually you just don't need any.
A shortcut has to be a challenge, otherwise it would just be the way. No situation is so dire that panic cannot make it worse.
There are two kinds of people in this world: those can extrapolate from incomplete data.
There are two kinds of people in this world: those can extrapolate from incomplete data.
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- Posts: 54
- Joined: 24 Feb 2012, 8:57pm
Re: Problem with drum brakes(Trice S)
cheers for advice guys,
will lube them up on sunday,
I am thinking of going over to a single brake lever so might consider going over to the sealed cables.
Still liking the drums compared to the faffy and not very good bb5s i had on my adventure.
will lube them up on sunday,
I am thinking of going over to a single brake lever so might consider going over to the sealed cables.
Still liking the drums compared to the faffy and not very good bb5s i had on my adventure.
Trice S 700cc
Optima baron
Optima baron
Re: Problem with drum brakes(Trice S)
I use White grease at the end of the cable adjusters. Seems to work OK.
"I thought of that while riding my bike." -Albert Einstein, on the Theory of Relativity
2007 ICE QNT
2008 Hase Kettwiesel AL27
2011 Catrike Trail
1951 engine
2007 ICE QNT
2008 Hase Kettwiesel AL27
2011 Catrike Trail
1951 engine
Re: Problem with drum brakes(Trice S)
A little bit of heat shrink tubing on the end of the cable adjuster to effectively seal the gap between it and the inner cable. This was a tip from David at Laid Back Bikes in Edinburgh when I picked up my Sprint - he even provided the heat shrink tubing
Alan
ICE Sprint 26
Bacchetta Giro 26
ICE Sprint 26
Bacchetta Giro 26
Re: Problem with drum brakes(Trice S)
I've had the same problem many times and suspect that I'm going to get it again very soon if I don't change my cables. Due to the "puddles" that I've had to ride through.
Another thing that I do after talking to Neil at ICE is to put Milburn cable oilers in at the bottom of the loop. Then you can attach a can of lube to it and spray into the middle of the cable and the lube comes out the end with any water and muck that might be in there. This isn't a total fix but it helps pre-long the time between cable changes.
It also happens with gear cables. I've had to ride 6.5 miles across Plymouth at 10pm up hill and down dale with only one gear. That is after releasing cables and adjusting stop screws to get it into a usable position.
Another thing that I do after talking to Neil at ICE is to put Milburn cable oilers in at the bottom of the loop. Then you can attach a can of lube to it and spray into the middle of the cable and the lube comes out the end with any water and muck that might be in there. This isn't a total fix but it helps pre-long the time between cable changes.
It also happens with gear cables. I've had to ride 6.5 miles across Plymouth at 10pm up hill and down dale with only one gear. That is after releasing cables and adjusting stop screws to get it into a usable position.
Cheers, Donald
Trice "Qnt 26" 26/39/55 F 10sp 11/36 R, now with Windwrap fairing.
ICE B1 34/50 F Capreo 9/32 R.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dkmwt/78674512/
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Trice "Qnt 26" 26/39/55 F 10sp 11/36 R, now with Windwrap fairing.
ICE B1 34/50 F Capreo 9/32 R.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dkmwt/78674512/
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1188814973