Viscount bicycles!!

[Halla]

Hi there Viscount lovers.

There is a lot said about the Aerospace models on here, we do not hear much about the lower order bikes. I bought a red Viscount Super Sport in 1981, probably a bit heavy at 28 pounds and with low end Shimano hubs, gears and brakes with SR quill stem and Sakae chainset, the rims are Super Champion. It is sitting on my turbo trainer, still in reasonably good condition. One thing that stands out is how well the bike handles and how comfortable it is. The only problem I have had with it is the rear hub became very noisy, so a new hub was built into the existing rim and spokes. The original parts are still on the bike except the chain set, which now drives lower gears.

Just wondered if these are as well thought of as the Aerospace models.

Regards Andy

[dnrc]

i've just popped back to this thread after a good while and I'd imagine it's too late for any input as you'll have probably done your resto by now but that is a proper nice find.

It's different, a good colour and looks in really good condition.

Hi all, another lurker here. I've just accquired a Viscount Sebring Mixte to do up for my daughter, who said she wanted a classic type bike for her 21st. It has Shimano 600 gears with stem mounted levers, SR Apex cranks and stem, Shimano Tourney centrepull brakes and Weinmann levers. Wheels and seatpost are steel. The stickers all say 'Made in England'. I've searched around and I haven't found anything about the ladies Sebring anywhere - so can any of you knowledgeable people tell me anything about this?

[Bendo]

Hi there Viscount lovers.

There is a lot said about the Aerospace models on here, we do not hear much about the lower order bikes. I bought a red Viscount Super Sport in 1981, probably a bit heavy at 28 pounds and with low end Shimano hubs, gears and brakes with SR quill stem and Sakae chainset, the rims are Super Champion. It is sitting on my turbo trainer, still in reasonably good condition. One thing that stands out is how well the bike handles and how comfortable it is. The only problem I have had with it is the rear hub became very noisy, so a new hub was built into the existing rim and spokes. The original parts are still on the bike except the chain set, which now drives lower gears.

Just wondered if these are as well thought of as the Aerospace models.

Regards Andy

Yes it would be interesting to know what quality of tubing was used in these lower-end Viscounts. I'm not familiar with them myself. I have other "10-speed" bikes of the era that use pretty basic hi-tensile steel tubing, and one with a basic Tange tube frame and fork. I know these are not as light or responsive as my Aerospaces but the latter can be due to frame geometry not just tubing thickness or metallurgy. If your Super Sport (I better stop calling my own VA Sport by that name!) has a similar geometry to the Aerospace bikes, particularly head tube angle and fork rake, then it's going to ride really well.

Nowadays I think some of the wonder that people express when riding steel framed bikes for the first time (so I'm not saying this relates to you Andy) is to do with the qualities of steel itself, regardless of the tubeset. People who have ridden only aluminium framed bikes as most of the lower to mid order bikes are these days would be noticing steel's famed flexibility. I'm seeing a lot of people in their teens and 20s in the inner city riding ressurrected old steel-framed 10 speeds (as opposed to single speeds, which are becoming a bit... démodé!). No doubt that's because they're very cool right now, and relatively cheap. But I reckon they are also getting something from the bikes themselves, some positive feedback for their effort.

b

[Edward Shurman]

The forks on my Viscount Aerospace Pro look to be "original"... aluminum .. should the replacement fork be chrome ... or with the tang.
I did some work on the bike several years ago .. the forks may have been changed out at that time..
PLEASE .. what is the difference.

[Bendo]

Ways to tell if your Viscount's front fork is aluminium or steel:

1) It is chromed = steel
2) It is half chromed, half painted = steel
3) It is lugged = steel
4) When you touch it with a magnet, the magnet sticks = it is steel
5) If it looks like it is made out of a single piece of metal with no lugs or joins = aluminium
6) It is dull silver in colour = aluminium
7) It has a brazed-on boss for mounting a headlight on the right hand fork blade about half way down = steel
8] When you touch it with a magnet and the magnet falls off = aluminium

Or post a pic! b

[ScubaScott8177]

little update on Lambert project #1; stripping the paint and getting it ready for paint a week from today! I'm excited but I hate using paint stripper when I use to have access to a blasting cabinet.. Thats how I did it before and it took it to bare clean metal in about 30min, now it takes me 30min a coat.. grr

I'll get some pictures up after its painted..

[ScubaScott8177]

Here it is stripped, beautiful brazing work on these frames;

[Sooper8]

little update on Lambert project #1; stripping the paint and getting it ready for paint a week from today! I'm excited but I hate using paint stripper when I use to have access to a blasting cabinet.. Thats how I did it before and it took it to bare clean metal in about 30min, now it takes me 30min a coat.. grr

I'll get some pictures up after its painted..

Good effort
How many coats to get it down like that?
Cheers

[ScubaScott8177]

little update on Lambert project #1; stripping the paint and getting it ready for paint a week from today! I'm excited but I hate using paint stripper when I use to have access to a blasting cabinet.. Thats how I did it before and it took it to bare clean metal in about 30min, now it takes me 30min a coat.. grr

I'll get some pictures up after its painted..

Good effort
How many coats to get it down like that?
Cheers

A lot.. Lol, because of the crap primer I used.. The base cost came off as it should have but the primer just got runny so I took the primer off with brake cleaner solvent.. Took a lot longer than I'm use to because I had a sand blasting cabinet before..

[Bendo]

Nice job! b

[Spudh]

Hi guys,

Just a quick question on the Bottom Bracket bearings.

I replaced the bearings on my wifes Grand Sport at the beginning of last year, I can't remember what brand bearing I used but they are gone again after 2,500km. Now I did damage the internal rubber seal on one of the bearings when I installed it so I presume this didn't help but I'm wondering what sort of mileage would be considered normal for these to go. I replaced the wheel bearings at the same time and these are all fine.

I've ordered SKF bearings this time round which seem to have a good reputation in engineering circles anyway. This time round I want to heat the bottom bracket frame a little with a hot air gun to ease the bearing (I'll put the spindle in the deep freeze for a day before I install it) installation. My question is what is a safe temperature to not damage the paint work? The gun goes to 400 deg C but I was thinking around 200 as I know this won't effect the integrity of the tubing. What temp do they bake paint at?

Thanks in advance
Spudh

[Indeboat]

Hello Spudh
Not sure about temp for heating the bottom bracket frame,but anything above ambient temp has got to be good.
Also , as you said cooling the the shaft is good (smaller).
When i replaced my bottom bracket bearings on my Pro i flicked the seals out with a small pin and repacked the bearings so that they were full of grease,as opposed to how they were from new when i think the bearing was placed near the grease ,but the two never got it together
Good luck.

[Sooper8]

Warning- bike geek question coming...

Triitout, can you tell me (or show close up pic would be even better) of the crank end dust caps please.
Just intrigued.
Cheers
Jem

Hi Jem,

There are no bad questions and I'm sure by now you figured out that this forum is populated by geeks!

The crankset and dust caps are Sakae SR Silstar, original parts on the Gran Touring model. Everything on the bike is stock original exept tires, saddle, tubes and bar tape! It was a nice Craig's list find about 2 years ago. I couldn't resist since I'd "upgraded" and lost all the original parts of my 1st Viscount, a blue Gran Touring bought new in 1976 and this one is even the proper size! The GT came with a steel fork and threaded standard BB so there were no issues on that end.

This forum is and will continue to be great fun and informative. Lots of "new blood" recently keeps it growing. Thanks to Busaste for getting it started only a few short years ago. See, you're not alone! Wishing everyone a very healthy and happy New Year with lots of good riding and rebuilding!

Are they like these Triitout?
I just got these last week and plan to use them on my 'Sport project
Yes, I agree- this thread is a huge mine of info for Viscount fans.
It almost feels like a forum within a forum, with some great experts who offer their help willingly.
Cheers
jem

IMG_2962 by Sooper 8, on Flickr

[busaste]

I'm wondering what sort of mileage would be considered normal for these to go. I replaced the wheel bearings at the same time and these are all fine.

Viscount boasted back in the day that the bearings would last the life of the bike so 2500km seems worrying!! But seriously, I think 2500km is not great. I would expect at least 3000 miles from a set of BB bearings. When you replaced them previously how did the spindle feel when you turned it by hand (without the cranks on)? It has to feel super smooth with absolutely no binding, roughness, etc. Getting this is easier said than done as everything in the BB has to be a snug fit and dead square. After 30+ years of use is this realistically achievable? At the factory, the spindle was pressed in through the bearings. All we can do in our garages is pull (or hammer!) the spindle through and hope everything lines up to perfection. The factory did not always get it right with the bearings in the BB. I recently removed an Aerospace spindle and bearings from the frame because the spindle felt rough when turned by hand. Examination of the parts showed that the bearings were fine. The spindle was the problem - the machining was, err, adequate at best. Checking its thickness with Vernier calipers showed a fair variation in its thickness along much of its length. One part of it was 17.10mm. This really is borderline for a bearing which has an ID of 17mm. The inner race will jut bind on the shaft stressing out the bearing as the shaft is pulled through. The principle behind Viscount's BB is to make good use of an interference fit (as opposed to a 'disaster fit') between bearing, spindle and frame. Fair enough, but if the spindle diameter is too big it will feel rough to turn when sat within the bearings and the life of the bearings will be drastically reduced. Sadly, in the example of my frame referred to above, the BB must have been rough the day it left the factory!

I would avoid heating up the BB shell unless you are doing it purely for the purposes of fitting the bearings. I would not drive/pull the spindle through the frame UNTIL it and the bearings have completely cooled off! It is essential that the bearings are a snug fit in the frame. Back in the day the Viscount factory manual procedure for the BB bearings was:

Drive in bearings
Drive through spindle
Fit circlips.

This is okay as long as the bearings don't come out of the frame as the spindle is being driven through! That really is a major problem!!!!!!! Gotta keep them bearings a tight fit in the frame and have a spindle that taps through (as opposed to being hammered in because it is such a poor fit).
It helps enormously if the BB spindle is polished till your fingers drop off before you pop it through the bearings. I suspect the frame will not need a great deal of heat. A hair drier can be surprisingly effective!! I think powder coating curing is done at around 200 deg. centigrade. Thing is though, this may be too much for the clear coat over the paint.

I've ordered SKF bearings this time round which seem to have a good reputation in engineering circles anyway.

I've just had a nightmare with SKF 6003 bearings. The ID was 16.84mm which is very poor . I only found this out after I tried to establish why the spindle felt so rough to turn by hand. So, whatever bearing you buy, check the ID with vernier calipers before handing over the cash. It seem that there can be some poor variations of tolerances even with stuff considered to be of good quality. It's Japanese bearings for me from now on!

Hope this helps and I hope I am not teaching you to suck eggs! For convenience I tend to assume that everyone is struggling as much as I am

[ScubaScott8177]

Lambert #1 went to paint this morning!