Fitting Hub Cartridge Bearings

[Valbrona]

Hub cartridge bearing presses are quite costly.

There seems to be a gap in the market for a simple machined bit of aluminium or brass that can act as a bearing drift/collet/support/call it what you want that you can strike with a mallet to seat cartridge bearings whilst supporting the other side of the hub. Hope manufacture a small number of these that match the OD of the bearings used in their hubs, but I can't find any others.

Can anyone think of a good way to knock cartridge bearings into a hub? One bearing is OD 28mm/ID 15mm and the other is OD 24mm/ID 15mm. Some might recommend the use of a socket.

Thanks.

[meic]

The old bearings tend to be the right size for the job. I also use bits of wood and sockets.

There is also the old trick of heating the hub to make things easier.

[Sweep]

Being a tad ignorant, I only came across this being a problem a few years ago when the bearings went wonky on the front wheel of my Dahon Speed Pro - actually in no time at all - I'd never bothered with bearings before.

A machine shop recommended to me by the bearing place in SE London actually produced the machined bit you are referring to for me very economically - it was pretty fascinating watching the guy make the relevant measurements and then produce the piece from a bit of raw metal.

But after the palaver of cartridge bearings I swore never to go near the things again.

I think the bearings alone cost me £25 - plus an awful lot of bother sourcing the correct ones, getting the old ones out etc. That's before I got the new ones in.

Recently had an issue with a Deore hub - sorted the ball bearings and cones issue by just getting a new hub for around £11 and replacing the entire inner. Job done.

I know this might sound like a negative question, but is there any particular reason you want cartridge bearings?

[531colin]

The old bearings tend to be the right size for the job.................

....and something resembling an axle, like a length of stud, as a press?

[gaz]

Suntour made a ueful tool for their hubs, TA-340. I bought mine about the same time as I got my hubs and some TA-260 cone spanners.

Before I learned some of my own maintenance skills I had to lend my tools to my LBS for wheelbuilds .

[rgc_911]

I just use a coach bolt and some suitably sized washers.

Works a treat.

[drossall]

Cartridge bearings are really cheap - only a few pounds a set. Here's a tutorial on doing it with no special tools. I actually use the method alluded to by meic - tap the new bearings in with a rubber mallet, using the old bearings to protect the new and spread the load. The key point is that cartridge bearings don't like side loads, but obviously there's no problem putting side loads on the old, worn-out bearings.

[HKW]

I used to tap the new bearings in but then I started pressing them using a large washer just fitting over the axle, and tightening it using the axle locknut and maybe spacers. I used grease between the bearing and hub. This seemed to work OK as far as my experience went.

[Sum]

I drift in the new bearings on my SS DMR hub using the old bearing and a socket and also the axle as a guide to ensure the new bearing drift in square. The axle has to be in place before both bearings are installed so it's not possible to use a length of stud or bolt as a makeshift press, nor is it possible to use the axle as a makeshift press either due to a lack of thread on it.

[Redvee]

I dismantled my Halo hub recently with the intention of replacing the solid axle with a QR after knackering the threads. After removing the circlips at either end it was a simple case of tapping the bearings out with a 'ammer and block of wood as support.

[breakwellmz]

Pouring hot water over the hub makes bearing removal and insertion easier.

[Redvee]

Pouring hot water over the hub makes bearing removal and insertion easier.

Trouble is with that is when you boil the kettle SWMBO hears the kettle boiling and thinks you're making her a cuppa then when it doesn't materialise she walks into the kitchen to catch you red handed working on a bike project in her domain.

[breakwellmz]

One of the advantages of living on your own!

[Mick F]

Can anyone think of a good way to knock cartridge bearings into a hub? One bearing is OD 28mm/ID 15mm and the other is OD 24mm/ID 15mm. Some might recommend the use of a socket.

Getting them out in the first place can be more difficult than getting them back in.

Many years ago I made a rod from a screwdriver. About quarter inch thick and I heated one end up and forged a flat right-angled hook. I filed it with a curve on the end, then re-heated it and quenched it to harden it.

By inserting it into the hub, you can move the spacer to one side and get the hooked end behind the bearing outer race and by tapping gently with a small hammer and going round the periphery the bearing will come out slowly. Don't rush it and make sure you go all round making sure the bearing remains square in the hub.

The other bearing is much easier as you can remove the space and get at it better.

Putting them back in, place the first bearing in the hole and press gently with your fingers. It should grip but make sure it's square. Tap the outer race with a small hammer all round the periphery to drive it in. Gently does it! When it's flush with the hub shell, you'll need a drift or a flat screwdriver to carry on. It may be possible to find a socket the right size, but it must be a lose fit in the shell, but make contact with the outer race. Turn the wheel over and fit the spacer then the other bearing. Fit the other bearing just like the first one.

The above technique is just the same for the cups on cup+cone hubs and that is why I made my hooked rod.

[Valbrona]

Getting them out in the first place can be more difficult than getting them back in.

Got a couple of these coming Mick http://wheelsmfg.com/products/presses-t ... ctors.html but thanks for your advice. Same thing would be used to remove cartridge bearings from Campagnolo freehub body, etc.