Emergency Replacement Spoke

[groberts]

Just returned from touring and broke a spoke on my rear wheel, fortunately just a couple of miles before the final destination. I was a little surprised as I had replaced the original wheel with a 36-spoke handmade Chrina Rigida for some extra strength but then I suppose that's touring and the loads are significant. I loosened the brakes and manged to ensure the wheel didn't catch on anything in order to limp home - had it been earlier in the trip a proper fix would have been necessary

I am not able to true a wheel (but will of course now look into it - stable door, bolting horses and locking come to mind!) but have come across this emergency replacement spoke. Can't actually see how it works but is it any good / worth getting?

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/fiber-fix-em ... prod20155/

[NUKe]

Any chance of a link to it

[groberts]

Sorry just realised I forgot - now in OP.

[NUKe]

You're usually ok with one spoke breaking, unlesss your hundreds of miles from civilisation on dirt tracks, and should get home or to the nearest bike shop. The main advantage of this gadget would be to spread the load so you don't end up stresssing more spokes which will fail later.

[Vorpal]

Isn't it easier just to carry a couple of spare spokes? I tape mine to my rack.

[foxyrider]

I got an emergency spoke after an on tour breakage, tbh i wouldn't bother if i had regular wheel size on the bike but 520c need a daft spoke length - never had to use it but it looks simple enough!

[TrevA]

Isn't it easier just to carry a couple of spare spokes? I tape mine to my rack.

Do you also carry the tools to take your cassette off? I find I have to remove the cassette even to fit non-drive side spokes.

I presume the fibre spoke somehow utlises the spoke hole in the hub and rim? Might still have to take the cassette of though, if it's a drive side spoke that's gone.

[groberts]

You're usually ok with one spoke breaking

Yes but to my surprise even with just one spoke the wheel was quite warped and I had to completely disconnect the rear brake to provide enough clearance to stop the wheel catching + similarly had to adjust the mudguard for clearance.

Isn't it easier just to carry a couple of spare spokes

I used to carry some spokes but didn't have them with me this time. This would still require knowledge to true the wheel, obviously I need to look into this skill.

Do you also carry the tools to take your cassette off?

No I don't, is that always necessary?

[TrevA]

When replacing a spoke, you just tighten it up to the same tension as the others on the same side of the wheel, it should be pretty much true. If you pluck the spokes and match the note of the other spokes to get the same tension.

A cassette remover may be necessary, especally if you have a wide ratio cassette, and it's essential for drive side spokes.

[rfryer]

I've looked into the Fiberspoke concept before (there are a couple of brands available), and though I haven't bought one (yet) I seem to recall that the advantages are that...
- They replace any length of spoke (and some bikes may have several lengths fitted)
- They can be fitted with removing the cassette
- They can be fitted even if the hub flange is damaged.

In summary, they seem a splendid idea. One day, I'll buy one. Probably after I've suffered a broken spoke!

[beardy]

It means having to do the job twice though.

The nine pounds that it costs could pay for half of a hypercracker/NBT2 if you have a rugged enough rear dropout to use it.

Also the temporary repair leaves you looking for a bike shop and making detours with delays rather than just riding on "as good as new".

I would remember to include the nipple in the kit as some times spokes break there and you can not unscrew the remains of the broken one.

[PH]

It was reviewed in Cycle magazine some time back, I forget who the reviewer was but if I remember correctly, they were unable to get sufficient tension for it to be of any use. I've carried one for years without having the need to try it.

[Brucey]

I have not broken a spoke on the road for years now. But on a day ride I'd just adjust some of the others to bring the wheel back so it runs through the brakes OK (which you can always do provided you have wheels with a sensible number of spokes in) and then fix it at home.

On tour I carry spokes, cone spanners and a special 10mm key, with which I can release the freehub body on a shimano hub. This can be somewhat easier than removing a cassette, and allows easy spoke replacement.

If you are in a rush and wish to replace a NDS spoke, they can usually be fitted by bending them into a curve. The end result is rarely perfectly straight (it depends how good you are at straightening them afterwards) but I don't think I've ever seen one like that which broke afterwards. If you are not happy with it, you can always do a proper job at a later date.

If you want to have an emergency spoke to fit to the DS, I'd suggest a length of Bowden cable inner, an M6 pinch bolt (with the hole drilled/filed big enough for two strands), and a little ingenuity. With a bit of fiddling about you can anchor the cable at both ends in a loop, and then use the old spoke as a Spanish windlass to apply the tension.

cheers

[sreten]

Hi,

Its much easier to carry a spoke spanner and loosen the two spokes either side
of the broken spoke to get you home - finish your journey. Then respoke.

rgds, sreten.

[LWaB]

I used one to help a friend with Mavic wheels finish a 1200km brevet. It wasn't perfect but the wheel did fit between the chainstays.