Cycling UK Forum

I've installed and renewed cables on dozens of Shimano DTI's. My son came to me with a broken cable on his fancy carbon job with Veloce 10 speed shifters.Know nothing about Veloce. Eventually after having to strip bar tape, threaded through a new cable in L/H shifter. It's a nightmare compared to Shimo and very little info on the web. I've attached new cable tightly to front mech but the lever will not move at all. It will not shift across! Just locks up. I've looked again and reinstalled cable so nipple is tightly in it's seat and still the same. I've come to a dead end. It's not easy as you have to get underneath the lever to check the nipple seating. I'm no expert with Veloce but I can't see that I've done anything wrong. Am I missing something. Spent two hours on the dam thing now.
Help appreciated.

campag cables use a slightly different nipple size (smaller) vs shimano ones. Most spare part cables will fit either type but some won't and that could be the problem.

So check the nipple size and if the nipple is fully seated inside the ergo; if it sticks out it will probably jam on something.

Like most jobs it'll be easier second time around....probably....

cheers

Hi Big Jim,

never had a worry with Veloce.

I've attached a photo of a spare LH lever showing the snug nipple pressed home.

It's a beginners question but you have released the lever by pressing the thumb lever and pulling the cable so that the lever can actually pull some cable when you operate the long finger lever?

Should be a five min job rolling back the hood!

Good luck

Thanks Brucey.
Mgate. thats a different style to the one I'm working on. The cable comes out underneath on the other side and threads through a yellow plastic channel on the top.
Yes the nipple is fully seated. I'm just mulling this over, over a Friday night glass of red. I deserve it. The cable snapped thing came about because a few months ago while we were out on a ride The front mech became detached from the seat tube. On investigation I found that it was pop riveted on! Never come across that as I ride steel bikes. Today I pop riveted the mech back on and proceeded to fit the new cable. At first I thought bad design, using pop rivets. Now I'm thinking. I wonder if there is a fault at the lever that caused undue pressure on the mech and snapped it in the first place. It's a Ribble CF bike and only 2 years old.
Funnily enough I broke a cable while out on Thursday morning. I replaced it it about 5 mins but it was a DT shifter. So simple and easy.

I guess it will be veloce 2013

Check out

http://www.campagnolo.com/UK/en/Support/download?td=3

You'll see an 'exploded view' of the lever - may help.

I'm still searching for an elusive EC-CE013 part to fix a pair I've got...

BTW - pop riveting on front mechs sounds dodgy! Like you I'm on a steel bike!

I presume that when you say pop rivet that it is the "hanger" that is riveted on ??
Regarding the Ergo take out the cable and see if the changer still works then.

cycleruk wrote:I presume that when you say pop rivet that it is the "hanger" that is riveted on ??
Regarding the Ergo take out the cable and see if the changer still works then.

Yes the hanger is reveted on. The changer did work before I installed the cable as I clicked it up and down to ensure I was threading the cable correctly. On this changer there are two tunnels emerging fron the bar end of the changer. I've threaded the cable through the tunnel that the old cable was running through and am now wondering about redoing it through the other one. I've no idea why there is a choice [maybe a campag thing] but wonder if it was originally set up wrong by Ribble and this caused the mech to come adrift due to undue force/tension.

A couple of things

bigjim wrote:On this changer there are two tunnels emerging fron the bar end of the changer. I've threaded the cable through the tunnel that the old cable was running through and am now wondering about redoing it through the other one. I've no idea why there is a choice

There are 2 routes so you have the option of routing the cable outer to the front or rear of the bars (depending on where/if you have channels for them). Check the cable outer is fully down the relevant channel & that you haven't lost the little (brass) ferrule that should be in the shifter end of the slot. You shouldn't have needed to unwind bar tape unless changing the outer as well.

At the risk of stating the obvious, did you click the shifter(s) to their least tension with the thumb shifters before fixing the cable. Otherwise the shifter will be as far as it can go one way with the mech as far as possible the other way and therefore no movement.

Rick.

RickH wrote:At the risk of stating the obvious, did you click the shifter(s) to their least tension with the thumb shifters before fixing the cable. Otherwise the shifter will be as far as it can go one way with the mech as far as possible the other way and therefore no movement.Rick.

+ Will the mech' move by hand as well ?

Will the Ergo work with the cable disconnected from the mech' but pulling on the cable by hand ?

Morning all.
Yes the mech is free and will work by hand. The shifter is not pulling on the cable when the cable is free and tensioned slightly by my hand.

is it possible that there is a stray strand from the old cable inside the ergo?

As per an above post, does the ergo appear to work OK when there is no cable in it?

cheers

I've just removed the cable entirely. The shifter is giving me 2 clicks up and only 1 click down [mouses ear]. Should there be two down click? It's a double. Trying to insert the cable it has to beforced and therefore is stripping the cable. Try a bit of old cable [wrecking new ones] and will not insert. putting a light through from above and no light showing so internal tunnel is blocked or half blocked so assume faulty shifter. The old cable was broken at the mech end, cut and smoothly removed so no bits in the shifter. IME threading cable should be a smooth operation so something going wrong internally and reluctant to strip shifter down as may be a lost cause anyway. Wondering about forcing micro screwdriver though or not?

It's unlikely to be a faulty shifter, or faulty installation - Ribble are one of the biggest importers and distributors of Campag in the UK and have probably built several thousand Veloce-equipped bikes with this type of lever. The cable inners are pre-installed at the Campag factory and correct pull action is one of the QC tests that the levers go through before packing. Odd errors do get through, of course - no QC process is perfect - but they are vanishingly rare.

The FD hanger failure is not that unusual in CF frames and is very, very unlikely to be the fault of the FD ... more likely just a poor pop-rivet job. We'd normally expect the hanger to be bonded (epoxied) and rivetted but a good many aren't. We've seen poor FD hanger fixing on everything from entry-level no-name frames all the way through to high-end branded frames. A good many FD mounts are just not man enough for the job as frame makers manufacture them in lower and lower quality alloys to save money and make them flimsier and flimsier to save weight - part of the reason that both Campag and Shimano have to offer FD stabilisers on the current generation of high actuation ratio FDs and on their electronic FDs, is so that FD hanger flex doesn't affect correct FD function.

As Brucey et al have said, the process of re-cabling is simple and quick. Make sure that the lever has been tripped into the small chainring position, peel the hood back and feed a new cable through the cable port from the bottom up (new cables have soldered ends that, if you use Campag cables, are also slightly tapered to help them through the small hole in the cable bushing) and allow the cable to exit the guide at the top - initially, don't pass it into the outer, but simply pull a little tension onto it with your fingers and check the lever action - normally to do this you will have to flip the hood back into place so that it doesn't block the lever action. Check cable is being smoothly recovered on upshift and smoothly released on downshift. If it isn't, there is a possibility that the cable has passed "round" the lug with the cable seat on the cable bushing, not through it. In this case, pull the cable back through and try again.

Once you have got it right, pull the cable most of the way back out and feed the very end of the cable (usually holding it down in the appropriate channel of the y-shaped cable guide with a small screwdriver blade) into the outer cable, then correctly route to the FD, connect and correctly tension. If the high and low setting screws on the FD were correctly set before, they should still be, though if you have had to remove the FD for any reason it's best to do a from-square-one set up of the FD.

If you are stuck, then a trip to a shop familiar with Campag should see it fixed - if you need a recommendation for a dealer in your area, PM me and I can give you some suggestions from shops that have had training from us, or that we know to be well-versed in Campag set-up.

HTH
Graeme

He has it.

Thankyou for taking the trouble to write that reply. I have done all you have suggested and I'm pretty experienced with fitting STIs. I have installed a geniune campag cable and the Lever is just not pulling cable at all. It's the first time I have been defeated by this type of thing. The only thing I can see that may be a problem is that there is evidently an O ring present where the cable enters the lever housing. I can't see any O ring. However my son has now taken the bike [to my shame] to an LBS to see if they can figure it out.
Thanks once again.