Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
I've got 2 Spa Nidd saddles which do eventually get comfy. One lives on my Touring bike and it's one of their first ( before they patterned the underside) and I'm on my second of the newer sorts. The reason I'm on my second is that the metal nose cracked. Spamsent me a new saddle (back to square 1 in the breaking in...). Now the replacement has failed in the same way. I'm determined to fix it so I've bought 3 rivets (plus some spares) and a Brooks B17 nose. I'd like some advise on what to do next.
1. If the holes don't line up should I drill the metal, the leather or neither?
2. Any tips on setting the rivets? I don't have an extensive collection of tools but could add to my collection if appropriate.
3. Would the cracked nose piece be weldable? It out ks to be chrome plated steel.
Any advise gratefully received.
Ta
Chris
Any advice
1. If the holes don't line up should I drill the metal, the leather or neither?
2. Any tips on setting the rivets? I don't have an extensive collection of tools but could add to my collection if appropriate.
3. Would the cracked nose piece be weldable? It out ks to be chrome plated steel.
Any advise gratefully received.
Ta
Chris
Any advice
"Marriage is a wonderful invention; but then again so is the bicycle puncture repair kit." - Billy Connolly
Re: Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
I would suggest that you weld the old nosepiece unless the new one is a perfect fit. If you are clever you will be able to reinforce the nosepiece (using a build-up of weld metal) so that it won't break again. Obviously the plating will be lost so paint and or wax will be needed to stop rust on the repaired part.
If you do use the new nose I would suggest that you don't alter the leather, since these rivets are very highly stressed anyway; I've had several leather saddles fail at the rivets in the nose, and more holes will just encourage the leather to tear. You may need to weld up the holes in the nosepiece and then redrill, in order to be able to put the holes in the right place.
To set the side rivets, it is usually a fair bit easier (because you can get a straight hit onto them) if you flare the nosepiece out, set the rivets and then squeeze the nosepiece back to its original shape. The middle rivet is easier. To set them you need a punch for one side and a bolster for the other. Because the top of the rivet needs to be shaped as well, you usually need a post-bolster that you can hold in a bench vice if you want to make a neat job of it.
It would be interesting to see where the original nosepiece has cracked, any pics?
cheers
If you do use the new nose I would suggest that you don't alter the leather, since these rivets are very highly stressed anyway; I've had several leather saddles fail at the rivets in the nose, and more holes will just encourage the leather to tear. You may need to weld up the holes in the nosepiece and then redrill, in order to be able to put the holes in the right place.
To set the side rivets, it is usually a fair bit easier (because you can get a straight hit onto them) if you flare the nosepiece out, set the rivets and then squeeze the nosepiece back to its original shape. The middle rivet is easier. To set them you need a punch for one side and a bolster for the other. Because the top of the rivet needs to be shaped as well, you usually need a post-bolster that you can hold in a bench vice if you want to make a neat job of it.
It would be interesting to see where the original nosepiece has cracked, any pics?
cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
I'm at Work station so photos not easy, may try this evening. I'm going to ask around at work see who can help! I'll see whether the brooks one fits in parallel.
"Marriage is a wonderful invention; but then again so is the bicycle puncture repair kit." - Billy Connolly
Re: Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
Mine did the same Brucey. I'm currently on the replacement saddle and every time the tension bolt loosens I fear the worst.
It seems to be a design fault rather than an actual metal failure. Where the plate is formed/moulded to a sort of upside down L shape, there is a very pronounced and sharp angle in the corner.
You'd almost think they were designed to fail. Hopefully my photo will show clearly the fault.
If fatboys crack is the same as mine was then this thread will show it. viewtopic.php?f=18&t=7228&start=390
It seems to be a design fault rather than an actual metal failure. Where the plate is formed/moulded to a sort of upside down L shape, there is a very pronounced and sharp angle in the corner.
You'd almost think they were designed to fail. Hopefully my photo will show clearly the fault.
If fatboys crack is the same as mine was then this thread will show it. viewtopic.php?f=18&t=7228&start=390
Bill
“Ride as much or as little, or as long or as short as you feel. But ride.” ~ Eddy Merckx
It's a rich man whos children run to him when his pockets are empty.
“Ride as much or as little, or as long or as short as you feel. But ride.” ~ Eddy Merckx
It's a rich man whos children run to him when his pockets are empty.
Re: Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
Yep that's the same as mine but not yet so bad.
"Marriage is a wonderful invention; but then again so is the bicycle puncture repair kit." - Billy Connolly
Re: Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
I agree, that looks like a sharp notch-like feature, and also that the finish on the edge is also poor. Both things will make a fatigue failure quite likely.
A strategically-placed weld build-up and a little grinding could easily make that part a lot stronger, albeit perhaps at cost of ease of access for a nosebolt spanner.
Vantage's crack(s)
cheers
A strategically-placed weld build-up and a little grinding could easily make that part a lot stronger, albeit perhaps at cost of ease of access for a nosebolt spanner.
Vantage's crack(s)
cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
Nosebolt spanner is less important on the Spa saddles as the bolt has an Allen key head.
"Marriage is a wonderful invention; but then again so is the bicycle puncture repair kit." - Billy Connolly
Re: Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
I am a failure at riveting saddles.
I gave up and used M6 csk machine screws (stainless) when replacing broken Brooks frames. The screws on the "corners" need rounding so they don't poke me in the bum.
I gave up and used M6 csk machine screws (stainless) when replacing broken Brooks frames. The screws on the "corners" need rounding so they don't poke me in the bum.
Bike fitting D.I.Y. .....http://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/bike-set-up-2017a.pdf
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Re: Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
Like the scew idea!
"Marriage is a wonderful invention; but then again so is the bicycle puncture repair kit." - Billy Connolly
Re: Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
Thought that I'd give an update. I took the old nosepiece off (photos) of the bust one below. The B17 nose piece holes lined up BUT it put the nose too far back. I drilled 3 new holes in the nose and then finished with copper rivets. I haven't ridden it yet but I think it should be fine.
My technique for the rivet setting involved a club hammer as an anvil and a rat tail file as the setting tool (alternating the thin end and flat end) . I used Brooks small rivets and they don't need surface dressing.
I'll post a picture when it's on the bike!
My technique for the rivet setting involved a club hammer as an anvil and a rat tail file as the setting tool (alternating the thin end and flat end) . I used Brooks small rivets and they don't need surface dressing.
I'll post a picture when it's on the bike!
"Marriage is a wonderful invention; but then again so is the bicycle puncture repair kit." - Billy Connolly
Re: Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
As promised saddle on the bike. Have to confess that I'm quite chuffed with myself (however of course the rivets could snap and I'll be sitting on the seat pin -ouch!). The copper coloured rivets look nicer than the chrome ones!
"Marriage is a wonderful invention; but then again so is the bicycle puncture repair kit." - Billy Connolly
Re: Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
job's a good'un!
BTW if there is the slightest burr or edge on the front rivets, they can snag clothing. Often they are best filed down a bit/tapped down at the edges.
cheers
BTW if there is the slightest burr or edge on the front rivets, they can snag clothing. Often they are best filed down a bit/tapped down at the edges.
cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
Brucey wrote:job's a good'un!
BTW if there is the slightest burr or edge on the front rivets, they can snag clothing. Often they are best filed down a bit/tapped down at the edges.
cheers
Smartest bit of my commuter bike! Thanks for the heads up on the rivets. I think they are clear but will double check.
"Marriage is a wonderful invention; but then again so is the bicycle puncture repair kit." - Billy Connolly
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Re: Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
Interesting. The nose bracket on my (2015, steel) Spa Nidd has also snapped, right in two, same place. After 22,600km more or less. I'm not a heavy chap, but the saddle is set well forwards, which on first thought would reduce the stress here.
Fortunately it fell apart right outside a motorbike repair shop, who welded it back on. However, welded only inside, and crooked, it can't last. Shame, as the (black) leather is in excellent shape, and very comfy. If hard.
Anyone know if the Ti ones also fall apart?
Or the Cardiff ones?
Fortunately it fell apart right outside a motorbike repair shop, who welded it back on. However, welded only inside, and crooked, it can't last. Shame, as the (black) leather is in excellent shape, and very comfy. If hard.
Anyone know if the Ti ones also fall apart?
Or the Cardiff ones?
Re: Repairing Spa Nidd saddle
I wonder if the problem is due to the stiffness of the leather? I was shocked when I saw new ones at York. no give at all so max strain on the metal parts?