Cycling UK Forum

I wonder if a fellow forum member can help?

If possible I would like to overhaul my Campagnolo Record oversized hubs (the Pre-2006 silver model). I have multiple wheel sets built using this exquisite Italian cycling component and if possible rather than use another Campagnolo dealer, would like to start servicing them myself.

Over the years, I've had some hubs serviced by the local Campagnolo shop - at a considerable cost - but as they have recently ceased trading I thought it a good time to learn how to replace the consumable parts myself (as said if at all possible?)

I am fully aware it may well require purchase of some new (and potentially expensive tools) but given the value of these hubs I am quite prepared to make that investment.

If any one can advise it would be very much appreciated.

Pre 2006?
These are the parts for 2005.
Do yours look like this?If they are these, it couldn't be easier.
One Allen key to remove the adjuster and two Allen keys to take off the ends. Even the rear hub is simple, you just need a spanner to undo the nut to take off the freewheel body.

On the DS rear, you stick a 5mm hex wrench in (quite deep) and then you undo the outer nut with a 17mm open-ended wrench ... remembering to turn it counter-clockwise. There is a little arrow marked onto it.

Clean and re-grease.

If there is notching and the bearings feel rough, well then you would need to replace the bearings, cups and possibly cones. The correct tools are expensive, but MickF has work-arounds.

Mick F wrote:Pre 2006?
Do yours look like this?

Yes.

I have overhauled these Campag oversized hubs on numerous occasions with new bearings and grease but am posting here as have a set I think might need a full overhaul given the number of miles on them.

A set of Chorus hubs laced to cxp33's were serviced with new cups (HB-RE124) by said Campag dealer a few years back at considerable cost.

It's one of those jobs I suppose ought really be carried out by a qualified Campag mechanic. But, I'm interested to hear if a competent home mechanic could safely do it without distorting the alloy hub shell or other such catastrophic mishaps

Also wondering if it is possible to service the freehub on this model (ie with fresh cartridge bearings, etc) Or would it be easier to purchase the whole freehub axle assembly?

These hubs do not use cartridge bearings, just regular loose ones.

There are proper tools to remove the hub bearing cups and then fit new ones, like those from Cyclus.

I'm aware the outer axle bearings are not the cartridge type.

My last question related to the free hub bearings which I thought were cartridge. Perhaps I'm wrong?

These hubs are simplicity in itself. You can strip every single part out - including the cups - in five or ten minutes.
Reassembly - including the cups - in about fifteen minutes.

Best and cheapest solution is to buy a new hub. Strip it down and discard the shell.

Sell the QR to offset the cost of the hub. You may be able to sell the rear shell.

If you want to buy the bits individually, you will see how cheap it is to buy a new hub. You get balls, cups, cones, seals, axle, fixtures and fittings. If you buy a rear hub, you get a new freewheel body too. Both front and rear use the same internals. Even if you don't need all the bits, you will do eventually. I'm considering a new one again as my spares are getting low.
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/triath ... amphubr885
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/triath ... amphubr890

Price the individual bits up and see how much they all come to.

The freewheel body is indeed cartridge and the later ones are fairly difficult to get the bearings out, but the old ones were nigh on impossible. The old ones had a plain circlip to hold them in, but the later ones have a circlip with holes so you can use small circlip pliers to release it, but it's fiddly.

These hubs are maintenance hungry. The more you strip and clean and re-grease, the longer they'll last. Forget them, and you'll wreck them, especially the rear hub. Been there, done that.

To get the cups out, you need a suitable flat screwdriver and a small hammer. Tap gently and go round the periphery and slowly they will come out. To replace them, tap them gently as before until they are flush with the flange. Find a socket from your socket set, and use it as a drift to knock the cup home. Honestly, is as simple as that.

Best thing to press the new races in, is to lightly grind on the bench the old ones, then using a piece of suitable diameter threaded bar (10-12mm) and a couple of washers+nuts, press the new races by using the old races as a drift (use them in the opposite direction).

I'll be careful with the screwdriver as a removing tool, better to use a suitable metal wall plug (about 15mm diameter, to expand up to 18-19mm) as a collet to grab the old race, and punch on the plug from the other side.

Mick F wrote:
Best and cheapest solution is to buy a new hub.

That's a great tip. Thanks

Mick F wrote:
To get the cups out, you need a suitable flat screwdriver and a small hammer. Tap gently and go round the periphery and slowly they will come out. To replace them, tap them gently as before until they are flush with the flange. Find a socket from your socket set, and use it as a drift to knock the cup home. Honestly, is as simple as that.

How would one go about supporting the wheel whilst performing the cup removal and reinsertion?

Without the axle in place I'm guessing an axle vice will be of no use? Perhaps lay the wheel on a lawn with two or three soft wooden blocks under either side of the rim wall to stop it rocking ?

if a cup insert isn't too tight you can hold the wheel and tap the inserts out; the inertia of the wheel will give enough purchase. However if they are tighter then you need to support the hub (eg on blocks of wood), not the rim, in order to get a good hit on them. The last thing you should do is support the rim when knocking inserts out; it wont do much good and it may do some harm.

BTW there is no point in removing inserts unless you are going to replace them, and they arguably need to be quite bad before that is really worthwhile.

You can also knock the cartridge bearings out of the freewheel body; you need to slide the spacer between them sideways, then knock the outer bearing out. Then the spacer will come out and you will see how the inner bearing is retained (often a snap ring of some kind). If you need to use much force then the bearings will be damaged and beyond further use.

Any time you knock an insert or a bearing out of a hub you increase the size of the hole the part fits into by a few microns; if the fit isn't good enough when the parts are reinstalled, they can work loose in service. You need to be ready to use bearing retaining compound as and when necessary when rebuilding hubs of this sort.

BTW if you tip a kettle full of boiling water over the hub/freewheel body and get a proper wriggle on so that you are knocking the bearings out whilst the parts are still hot, the bearings will usually come out a fair bit easier.

cheers

sun ra wrote:...
How would one go about supporting the wheel whilst performing the cup removal and reinsertion?

Without the axle in place I'm guessing an axle vice will be of no use? Perhaps lay the wheel on a lawn with two or three soft wooden blocks under either side of the rim wall to stop it rocking ?

Take a block of wood and drill a hole that has to be just bigger than the races, I think the races are 34mm so drill 35-37.
However, IMO the first thing to replace are the bearings with their ring, then the cones, and if things aren't great you go fro replacing the races too.

sun ra wrote:How would one go about supporting the wheel whilst performing the cup removal and reinsertion?

I've sat down and rested the wheel on my lap. Hub between the thighs. Also you can stand the wheel up and lean it against your legs, but it's easier to lean it against a wall.

As Brucey says, the inertia of the weight of the wheel is enough.

I'd still use a support, if wood is not available, a piece of thick plastic pipe with a rag on top should suffice