Cycling UK Forum

5 years ago I had my lase breakage and a classic one: forgot to remove the washer under the crankbolt and stripped the threads.
The end of a long list build up in 45 years,,,,,

Stripping the crank extractor threads on not one but two crank arms, but not ensuring the tip of the extractor bolt pushed on the BB end (where's that picture of inserting a ball bearing - and what diameter was the ball?)

When I changed my first Shimano cassette I bought the tool but not the chain wrench so used a jussie on the tool and a screwdriver through the spokes and cassette which then needed a new spoke and a new chain as I didn't replace the chain. Numerous times I've broken skin when working on my bikes.

On getting my first 'proper' bike after many years in the wilderness, I took it out with the intention of fine tuning the seat and handlebars (I have one of those NVO Components spacerless stems and so adjustments on the road are simple).

I noticed that the seat post was slipping and so I got my allen key out to tighten it up. I couldn't get it tight enough to stop the slipping but kept trying until I sheared the binder bolt in half. Standing on the pedals all the way home was not an option due to arthritic knees and so I ended up putting some nasty scratches and grooves into my shiny new seat post as I cycled home with it resting on top of the seat tube.

When I replaced the binder bolt with one of the same size, I realised that when it was fully closed, it was a smidgeon too wide to clamp tightly onto the post and so I put a washer on the notchless side and it tightened up beautifully. A google of the phenomenon brought up results suggesting that it was an issue with my make/model of bike - such a shame because otherwise, I think it is a lovely bike and about as perfect as you'll get for the price (Jamis Aurora)

Wheel nuts on my Sachs i-3 hub, They are made of a very soft material and strip when one does them up normally tight, so I had to buy some spares for 45 Cents each. Fortunately the arm that secures the back-pedal brake can be done up tight, else the wheel would pull over and the whole would be unusable.

I once knackered the thin metal seal on a Shimano hub by levering it out with a screwdriver to allow thorough cleaning of the bearing surfaces. I now use plastic tyre levers and gentle pressure to do that job.

Cyril Haearn wrote:Wheel nuts on my Sachs i-3 hub, They are made of a very soft material and strip when one does them up normally tight, so I had to buy some spares for 45 Cents each. Fortunately the arm that secures the back-pedal brake can be done up tight, else the wheel would pull over and the whole would be unusable.

If it is an i-3 that makes it SRAM not Sachs, strictly speaking? The gripping/NTW arrangements on several SRAM hubs are noticeably poorer than those on other hubs. Unfortunately the axle dimensions are slightly different so you can't always use NTWs from another brand of hub etc.

SRAM (and older Sachs) hubs often use a 10.5mm x 26tpi thread and this is close enough that you can (in a pinch) often use an SA hub nut. These are no harder but the fit is tighter so they ought to be less prone to stripping. If you use a RH SA nut there are more threads inside it and these do seem to be made in a material that is a little harder than LH ones.

I think it is an excellent idea to use robust chain tugs with some IGHs and SRAM i-3 is a case in point. You can get some nice double-sided stainless steel chain tugs (as found on some Batavus models) which incorporate provision for a single-tang NTW. Mind you these i-3 hubs find all kinds of interesting ways of breaking, so I don't work on them with any notion of 'permanence' in mind....

cheers

I've done a few of the usual things - thought I'd escaped the stripped crank threads till I managed it a couple of months ago, also I cracked an old Shimano 600 square taper crank by overtightening. Did a silly one on myself a few months back; I decided that I could pull a stiff quick link closed with my hands and keep control if things went downhill. Of course I slipped and the big chainring ate the back of my hand. Also a similar painful accident thinking I'd stop my hand in time undoing an awkward drive side pedal with an 8mm allen key fitting. Why can't they stick flats on every pedal?! All avoidable if I'd been a bit more careful.

Broken - the workings of my left thumb

VERY Stupidly I was trying to left the end of some old handlebar tape with a scalpel when it slipped and sliced deep into my left thumb, cutting right through the tendons. Lots of blood and cursing ensued.
It meant a night in hospital while they tried to join bits up followed by weeks in plaster, and I still can hardly touch the end of my left little finger with the end of my left thumb.
Its also permanently very numb.

Lessons learned.

Hi,
Too numerous to mention.
Hitting your thumb with a hammer under the car, and seeing the skin split, like a scalpel would do

We are all human, I think I have the patience of a saint but still get frustrated and mess things up.
Being paid to do the work by an employer, not self employed, you can take your time.
Never skip on time repairing flats or anything away from home.

Even the most experienced self centred big headed mechanic (sound like someone...me even ) would not expect a bolt to sheer off on a new bike that was assembled with adhesive threadlock

OK, almost broken in this case.
Brand new custom built Argos frame, cutting the excess length off the fork column while building it up ...... A backwards draw of the hacksaw, followed by a "I'll just double check my measurements....". The forks now have a slight abrasion mark somewhere where the top race cup threads are...... oh, so nearly expensive (and in the LBS workshop where I worked at the time.....).

I ended up taking a trip to the LBS when i couldnt get a new brake cable into my claris shifters, i kept thrashing the end of the cable.Teach me to try a fiddly job without my "reading " glasses .

I broke a brand new B&M Fly, whilst installing it, dropping it on concrete and cracking the lens.