Canit brakes + dynamo front light

[chocjohn9]

Hello.
My Hewitt Cheviot SE has canti brakes, so the upside down V shaped wire connecting the arms together is irritatingly sitting where the dyamno arm would like to be, when it's attached to the mudguard screw at the top of the forks. ggrrhh. https://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/b-- ... aid:709237
I am pondering two solutions.
(1) I have a Tubus Tara front rack, so I could fix it to the top of the loop, making it right out at the front of the bike - any suggestions on the best way of doing this. I have seen it done on a Robert tourer, so I know it's possible or
(2) Could I change to V-brakes? Like this - https://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shi ... aid:515895
I have Shimano Tiagra STIs. Is there a compatibility issue? Would the clearance be OK then?
Thoughts?
Any other solutions?
Thanks a lot.

[beardy]

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/schmidt-stai ... prod23927/
This or something like it. Because it goes down before going up for the light there is room for the cable.

[CREPELLO]

It's possible to invert the wire bracket in order to clear the straddle wire. It will require bending to a right angle. Very easy if you've got a vice - just whack the longer side of the wire gently with a hammer until the right angle is achieved. This is what I did with a B&M Fly.

[freiston]

I originally tackled this with a long screw and double-nuts to 'lock':

but then I got a bracket similar to the one in beardy's post [edit: also from SJS] - I had to use a long screw (but not as long as before) and use a spacer (nut with thread drilled out and a couple of washers) to keep the bracket out of the way of the headset - excuse the muck:

[PH]

You haven't said which canti brakes you have. Some (Such as tektro 520/720) are not affected by the height of the straddle wire, others benefit from having the wire as low as possible. Using the former, you can simply raise the yoke, if your brakes have a fixed wire then converting is simple and cheap. Another common solution is to mount the light bracket on a spacer, so the straddle is behind it. I have an early SE (1" headset*) now running flat bars, it's been a bit of a juggling act to get V brakes, Supernova light and mudguards to all play nicely together, ended up using Shimano 90mm mini Vs which should also work with your levers. Not yet convinced they give any better braking than the cantis I took off, though that might be because the pads have to be set at the top of the slots.

* I think this was only the first year or two they were made, so if yours is the 1 1/8th the fitting issues might be different.

[PH]

I originally tackled this with a long screw and double-nuts to 'lock':

Very clear photos, but I think with those brakes a lower straddle wire would ideally have been better.

[freiston]

Very clear photos, but I think with those brakes a lower straddle wire would ideally have been better.

I reckon I've got the room to lower it now but tbh, all the stopping power that I need is already there. If ever I have reason to fiddle, like stripping the brakes or changing the pads, I might lower the straddle. Not sure if you can see from the photo, but there is a small screw to retain the cable that is missing from the bridge (far side), given the design of the bridge, I don't think its absence is a worry because the cable isn't going anywhere - but I might be moved to replace the bridge one day.

[robc02]

This is how I did it using an uphanger and a lamp bracket meant for cantilever brakes:

[freiston]

This is how I did it using an uphanger and a lamp bracket meant for cantilever brakes:
<<snipped pictures>>

I do like that solution with the uphanger.

[PH]

This is how I did it using an uphanger and a lamp bracket meant for cantilever brakes:

CantiUphangerLightBracketComp.jpg

That is very neat, is there always enough travel between the yoke and the uphanger? Or do you need to adjust as the pads wear?

[robc02]

is there always enough travel between the yoke and the uphanger? Or do you need to adjust as the pads wear?

Those are the original pads and I haven't had to adjust anything yet. When operating the brake there does look to be sufficient spare travel to allow for pad wear. There's always the possibility of lowering the straddle slightly - two or three mm perhaps - to gain extra travel if needed.

[Vantage]

I had a similar setup to robc02 but I used the standard B&M mount, an older steel plate type yoke and Oryx's on the Dawes. The yoke barely cleared the mudguard and at full lock the yoke had about 3mm clearance before hitting the parallel bars of the light mount.
For the life of me I can't recreate that setup on the new build so have had to go the extra long bolt method described earlier. No idea how much braking power I've lost through the higher yoke yet.

[chocjohn9]

As ever, a great response. Thanks to all.
* freiston - where did you buy the piece in the second photo? That really does look ideal.
* beady - The SJS piece does look OK but the "down bit" isn't very long. My cable runs down the head tube, about 2cm parallel to it, so I think it would still touch.
* I could get my hammer out and start to bend the arm on the B+M dynamo. It's only a few quid if I make a mess of it, for another one!
Thanks again

[robc02]

I had a similar setup to robc02 but I used the standard B&M mount, an older steel plate type yoke and Oryx's on the Dawes. The yoke barely cleared the mudguard and at full lock the yoke had about 3mm clearance before hitting the parallel bars of the light mount.
For the life of me I can't recreate that setup on the new build so have had to go the extra long bolt method described earlier. No idea how much braking power I've lost through the higher yoke yet.

In my previous post I forgot to say that my setup is helped, travel-wise, by the relatively low MA of the CR720s, compared to mid or low profile cantis. Having said that, I have ample rim clearance - were it necessary to avoid running out of travel this could be reduced by a small amount.
I have encountered no problems at al with my setup - and I didn't have to fiddle around to get it to work. I just set the straddle yoke to clear the lamp bracket, clamped the straddle wire so that the pads had adequate rim clearance, and checked that there was enough spare travel when the brake was applied hard - there was.

[Brucey]

I'd expect to be able to fit one of these



with some kind of lamp bracket fairly easily.

BTW this brake hanger will (I think) increase the power of some cantis with horizontal arms, not so much those with a mid or low-profile design.

cheers