Drop versus straight

neilob · Post by **neilob** » 31 Jan 2008, 4:40pm

I know this topic stirs up great debate......after 40 years of drops I've discovered the benefits of straights and bar ends. OK, bikes don't look as pure and tradional but the one thing that really persauded me was braking advantage. The argument of comfort focuses on multi-position, lateral versus longtitudinal hold, and riding on the brake hoods, but it's taken me this long to realise that operating brakes from the hoods isn't nearly as positive as modern MTB levers. Comfort is subjective and what works for each of us is what we should use, and then it's about what you use the bike for. Am I alone in thinking that braking is more precise and controllable? And safer?

Post by Si » 31 Jan 2008, 4:52pm

Am I alone in thinking that braking is more precise and controllable? And safer?

Nope. My flat bar bikes have better brakes because they have V brakes and/or hydraulic disc brakes.

On the drop bar bike the breaks are good but not as good. The braking is better from the drops than the hoods as one can squeeze the lever better and also use better mechanical advantage by pulling lower down the lever. The problem is that non-racey pootling types like me spend most of our time on the tops/hoods and so aren't holdint he bar in the best position for braking. Thus my commuter and off road bikes (those where I'm most likely to have to do sudden powerful brake use) have flat bars and my tourer has drops.

For the fixie I'm toying with the idea of chopping the drops off some drop bars and turning them upside down so that my hands are in a similar position to being on the hoods but I grip the brakes as if I were on the drops (the brake levers being placed on what is now the bottoms on the bars...if you get my drift?)

byegad · Post by **byegad** » 31 Jan 2008, 5:39pm

You're right neilob, I stopped using drops due to hand and wrist problems and found the same difference in braking.

reohn2 · Post by **reohn2** » 31 Jan 2008, 6:22pm

Si wrote

For the fixie I'm toying with the idea of chopping the drops off some drop bars and turning them upside down so that my hands are in a similar position to being on the hoods but I grip the brakes as if I were on the drops (the brake levers being placed on what is now the bottoms on the bars...if you get my drift?)

Do you mean like TT bars?
I would have thought the brakes weren't quite as important on fixed due to speed control via the pedals.

Its funny this topic has come up as I've just changed one of the tandems over to flat bars and V's mainly because it being a Thorn and having Suntour self energizing brakes which were OK but the front one is fitted to the back of the fork blades (courtesy of Mr Thorn in his infinite wisdom) which necessitates a double stradle wire affair which is/was a pig to set up.
The V's are good brakes but the jury is still out on the flats/bar ends

I would have fitted Travel Agents to the V's if I could get one on the front brake(difficult I think due to frack to bunt fittings).
I'm aware I'm off on a tangent (or even a tandem)but has anyone had any experience of 287V brake levers (V brake levers for drops)?

Post by Si » 31 Jan 2008, 7:13pm

reohn2 wrote:Do you mean like TT bars?

Yes, well, a home made bodged up version anyway.

reohn2 wrote:I would have thought the brakes weren't quite as important on fixed due to speed control via the pedals.

True, but in my case I use it as an SS sometimes, plus the fixed sprocket doesn't have a lock ring so I don't want to be doing skip stops all the time!

reohn2 wrote:I would have fitted Travel Agents to the V's if I could get one on the front brake(difficult I think due to frack to bunt fittings).

You could always bodge the trvel agent onto the lever end of the wire - in fact the brake would be more efficient like this.

reohn2 wrote:I'm aware I'm off on a tangent (or even a tandem)but has anyone had any experience of 287V brake levers (V brake levers for drops)?

I've never tried them but have heard varying opinions - I used to ride now and then with a guy who had them on his drop barred MTB and he thought they were great, off or on road. Others have poured scorn on them.

What you really want is a pair of Magura hydraulic drop bar levers.....just a pit ythat they stopped making them and the only place that I've seen doing them recently was charging over e300 for them! Knew I shouldn't have sold mine :roll:

reohn2 · Post by **reohn2** » 31 Jan 2008, 7:32pm

Si
I never gave the T/A's at to'ther end a thought,dang! thanks for the tip I may have a think about that if I can't live with the flat bar set up.

Hydraulic mags, yep, but as you say...........

rower40 · Post by **rower40** » 31 Jan 2008, 8:05pm

Carlton Reid, in this month's Cycle, wrote:One of the best security devices on the market is the drop handlebar.

I've been very lucky/foolish. I rarely lock my bike, and I get away with it. Flat Bars & Hub Gears/Hub Brake on one machine, drop bars and scruffy (but Brooks) saddle on another, custom (and rather silly) paint job on the Brompton, and finally - short wheelbase underseat-steering recumbent. None of which could be flogged off in a pub for £50.

PH · Post by PH » 31 Jan 2008, 8:20pm

I can get a comfy set up on both flat and drop bars, there's pros and cons of each, I choose depending on the bikes main usage.
With randonneur style drops, with a longer flat top section, and cross top brake levers you can pretty much have the best compromise. The cross tops offer at least the same leverage as from the drops, possibly more.

has anyone had any experience of 287V brake levers (V brake levers for drops)?

I tried them and didn't like them, put the cantis back on. Tektro now do a version, I have no experience, but might be worth a look.

professorlandslide · Post by **professorlandslide** » 31 Jan 2008, 8:34pm

I've switched from flats to drops with V-brake and dia compe 287 V levers and find the braking better from the drops than it was on the flat bars... On the hoods its about the same, i can lock the rear no problem. But then i have long fingers which means i can get hold of the lever properly from the hoods. My drops are also of the flared off road variety which give the levers more room to move inwards without hitting the bars, so i can pull more cable and apply more force - so yeah, its probably more about hwat fits you... Everyone's different. Other people always find my bikes really uncomfortable, maybe i'm an odd shape...!

Post by **Mick F** » 31 Jan 2008, 8:40pm

I have drops. I don't have any problems with braking, either on the hoods or otherwise.

My ability to control the braking isn't affected whether on the hoods or on the drops. It's better on the drops, but that doesn't mean that I can't do an emergency stop on the hoods.

I have big hands, maybe that's it.

gaz · Post by **gaz** » 31 Jan 2008, 8:59pm

PaulB · Post by **PaulB** » 31 Jan 2008, 9:46pm

I have drops on my touring bike and lightweight "racing" machine and straight bars (with bar ends) on my folder. I have considered changing my tourer to flat bars because I cannot remember the last time I actually used the drop part of the bars. However because I have Campag Ergo gears the extra cost of adapting the gear change and brakes means the drops will stay.

hubgearfreak · Post by **hubgearfreak** » 31 Jan 2008, 10:22pm

Si wrote:For the fixie I'm toying with the idea of chopping the drops off some drop bars and turning them upside down

an illustration

reohn2 wrote:I would have thought the brakes weren't quite as important on fixed due to speed control via the pedals.

that's what i thought, but before riding that one again, i'll be fitting the rear brake :shock:

to accelerate up to speed (say 20mph) it takes your legs 10's of metres, using muscles and joints developed over a lifetime of cycling, to halt in a hurry you'd want to do it in a shorter distance with muscles that don't really exist. my experience was one of aching knees and i wouldn't recommend it, the ultimate of style over content, IMHO

pete75 · Post by **pete75** » 1 Feb 2008, 7:05pm

hubgearfreak wrote:
reohn2 wrote:I would have thought the brakes weren't quite as important on fixed due to speed control via the pedals.

that's what i thought, but before riding that one again, i'll be fitting the rear brake

to accelerate up to speed (say 20mph) it takes your legs 10's of metres, using muscles and joints developed over a lifetime of cycling, to halt in a hurry you'd want to do it in a shorter distance with muscles that don't really exist. my experience was one of aching knees and i wouldn't recommend it, the ultimate of style over content, IMHO

When I used to race we did all our winter and early spring training on fixed wheel bikes. Did a few thousand miles over the years all without a back brake and all without problems, though it is the front barke that does most of the braking. I don't think I've ever since a fixed wheeler with a rear brake.

jawaka · Post by **jawaka** » 3 Feb 2008, 1:07pm

sorry achange of emphasis: in new ctc mag they test locks, very sobering, and note "one of the best security devices.. is the drop handlebar; thieves on the whole give these a wide berth. nobody down the pub wants atouring bike...however the drop handlebar trick isn't failsafe"
maybe it's because i'm in my 50s but when i was young we all lusted after the coolest bikes which were all drops like the racers.