CAAD 12 Durability for commuting.

[MEGAM77]

Hey everyone,
I have been commuting using a Broadman hybrid for the last 4 years or so. I commute 25 Miles a day in total , 4 days a week.
I just bought my first Road bike - And that happens to be CAAD 12 ultegra. (Decided to go with CAAD 12 after lot and lot of research)
I am loving the CAAD 12 in terms of handling and response. It a fantastic bike! (Not sure how this compares with other carbon bikes.)

Because my main usage is commuting I purposely selected the Alu frame against carbon. Hoping it would take the load the abuse while parking and commuting.

But I am starting to think did I went for a wrong bike. Because CAAD 12 frame is so light it is kind of so fragile. I am able to see movement in the top tube if try to squeeze it with my fingers. not as bad as trying to squeeze empty coke can. but almost like un-opened coke can with gas inside. I am sure if I press it hard enough with my full power the top tube in CAAD 12 might slightly dent or bend. It is not that I am so strong - it seems like CAAD 12 top tube is so fragile

When I tried to do the same (Squeezing the top tube with fingers) on the other Carbon bikes in the store I was not able to see any movement.
ironically Carbon bike seems to be much stronger in my test.

Should I be worried? Should I return the bike and go for something more robust like CAADX or Pinnacle Arkose...
Having said that I did not like the appearance of CAADX or Pinnacle Arkose that is why in the first place to CAAD 12. (But I starting to realise Practicality is more important than aesthetics) I still have 3 and half weeks left in my 30 days return period


Please let me know your valuable thoughts. Thanking you in advance.

Is there any CAAD 12 owners out there ? do you feel the same?


Regards

Nathan

[TrevA]

CAAD 12 is a race bike, not the best for commuting, though it will be ok while the weather is fine and you can use it through the summer and early Autumn. You'll find around the second week in October that the weather will turn and after that the roads will be constantly wet/ damp. This will kill your summer bike so that's the time to put it away and return to the hybrid. Or buy another bike that's more suitable for use use in winter, with lower end components that are cheaper to replace when worn out and ideally, one that can fit mudguards. Something like a Ribble Winter or Decathlon Triban 520/540.

There are also lots of good deals on CAAD8's at the moment. My son in law recently bought a CAAD8 11-speed with 105 kit for £700. You can get the Sora equipped CAAD8 for £500.

[Dave W]

I had a caad 12 - thought it was rubbish to be honest. Once you get it wet it's going to click and creak and drive you nuts. Probably not the best commuter bike out there. Don't believe everything you read or the hype.

[Valbrona]

Stand on a Coke can. (But not Pepsi as they are most usually steel).

[mercalia]

But I am starting to think did I went for a wrong bike. Because CAAD 12 frame is so light it is kind of so fragile. I am able to see movement in the top tube if try to squeeze it with my fingers. not as bad as trying to squeeze empty coke can. but almost like un-opened coke can with gas inside. I am sure if I press it hard enough with my full power the top tube in CAAD 12 might slightly dent or bend. It is not that I am so strong - it seems like CAAD 12 top tube is so fragile



Please let me know your valuable thoughts. Thanking you in advance.

Is there any CAAD 12 owners out there ? do you feel the same?


Regards

Nathan

wow I would never ride a bike like that, or you are very very strong

[olivermleach]

I have just bought a CAAD12. For training hard and racing. In the dry. It isn't a commuting bike and has not been designed in any way for that purpose.

Agree what others have said about the CAAD8. There are myriad articles out there on how to winterproof your bicycle (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwTAA5Y-4-4) but essentially you want:

1. Reasonably cheap, reliable components that are economical to replace when they wear out - shimano sora 3500 fits this brief nicely

2. Wide, p*ncture proof tyres like schwalbe marathons or the like. A lot of people will advocate running faster tyres because they are either faster to change/repair if they go glat or simply because something like the marathons are overkill - but a lot of people (myself included) prefer the fit and forget policy when it comes to a commuting bike

3. Robust frame - steel is the go to material but there are plenty of aluminium bikes out there build to stand the test of time e.g. Tifosi, Spa, etc.

4. Mudguard ready - eyelets to fit mudguards

5. (option) Rack eyelets - a lot of commuters prefer to carry their work things on the bike rather than their back - again this is personal preference. Your choice of the CAAD12 suggests that perhaps you prefer the rucksack model.

Where did you buy the CAAD12 from / who sold it to you as a suitable commuting bike?

[fatboy]

I commute daily and a touring bike is (I reckon) the best compromise. Quite fast, comfy and durable (lower p*****count than my road bike).


It's worth noting that daily commuting trashes a bike (others may disagree) even with mudguards so I have made a simple tourer from bits from old ab old bike. I sometimes take a good bike to work but not often. Best to use the road bike for fun and get an old wreck of a tourer IMHO

[olivermleach]

Correction: I didn't really mean Spa for aluminium bikes (they are probably my go-to place for any future steel and Ti builds due to competitive pricing), but there are a number of independent frame builders around the UK crafting excellent alloy frames right now. e.g. Bowman cycles in south London - see their Palace model.

Alloy is not inherently weak - it is just a different material and so needs different engineering for it to perform a particular purpose. In the case of your CAAD12 that purpose is all out racing (it has borrowed a lot of design for Cannondale's SuperSix Evo - it is designed for pure speed).

[Cowsham]

This thread has been useful -- I've been looking for a fast semi Tourer bike -- by that I mean when I go for a cycling holiday I'm cycling with the bike loaded up till I set up camp, then I unpack into the tent sometimes removing the rack etc to have a light bike for exploring around the location. Also like the bike to be light enough to keep up with the weekend warriors on the club runs. I think I can safely rule out the caad 12 ---- but now we're at the end of 2019 would the caad13 be any use ( noticed it has rack mounts )

Other bikes I've been looking at is the Pinnacle Arkose R2 or one of the carbon gravel bikes like the Orro terra c hydro -- may start a new thread for that.

[dim]

This thread has been useful -- I've been looking for a fast semi Tourer bike -- by that I mean when I go for a cycling holiday I'm cycling with the bike loaded up till I set up camp, then I unpack into the tent sometimes removing the rack etc to have a light bike for exploring around the location. Also like the bike to be light enough to keep up with the weekend warriors on the club runs. I think I can safely rule out the caad 12 ---- but now we're at the end of 2019 would the caad13 be any use ( noticed it has rack mounts )

Other bikes I've been looking at is the Pinnacle Arkose R2 or one of the carbon gravel bikes like the Orro terra c hydro -- may start a new thread for that.

go steel ... and you don't have to break the bank

something like All City:

https://allcitycycles.com/bikes

I have mates who have these with good tubeless ready wheels, wider tyres dynnamo lighting, and you have all the mounts for racks and mudguards etc if you want to tour.... they ride long distance (Audax) ..... customize and build it up the way you want

and have a second lightweight carbon bike for fast

[Cowsham]

Had a good look at that zig zag 105 bike from All City -- it's almost identical in build components and geometry to the Arkose R2 the only differences being that lovely steel frame and of course that £1600 extra price tag. -- a lot cheaper than a Mason and I think it's better looking than the Mason but is it worth £1600 more than the pinnacle? I couldn't justify that.

[Brucey]

you can use any bike for commuting on but -even with the best will in the world and copious maintenance- it is liable to get completely jiggered in our glorious climate, once subjected to the daily grind.

Most experienced riders have a 'winter bike' or hack bike or training bike. This still needs regular maintenance to be reliable, but by design is less likely to suffer damage and even if it does, the parts are less likely to actually break and are not going to cost as much to replace either.

Most folk eventually gravitate towards something with a steel frame and a transmission that is only a complicated as it needs to be to do the commute on. Steel frames rust in an obvious way (that can be addressed) whereas once exposed to road salt, aluminium frames (and carbon frames with aluminium inserts) turn to white powder and then disintegrate.

When spring comes, getting off the 'beater' and back on a 'nice bike' feels magic.

cheers

[Cowsham]

you can use any bike for commuting on but -even with the best will in the world and copious maintenance- it is liable to get completely jiggered in our glorious climate, once subjected to the daily grind.

Most experienced riders have a 'winter bike' or hack bike or training bike. This still needs regular maintenance to be reliable, but by design is less likely to suffer damage and even if it does, the parts are less likely to actually break and are not going to cost as much to replace either.

Most folk eventually gravitate towards something with a steel frame and a transmission that is only a complicated as it needs to be to do the commute on. Steel frames rust in an obvious way (that can be addressed) whereas once exposed to road salt, aluminium frames (and carbon frames with aluminium inserts) turn to white powder and then disintegrate.

When spring comes, getting off the 'beater' and back on a 'nice bike' feels magic.

cheers

I'm a "loads of maintenance sort" and can do all the work so that part of the equation doesn't bother me -- Here's a list of what I want in order of importance ( although most of the list is important to me )

1 A light enough frame that I can use for the weekend club runs ( most of us are over 50 in my group so our averages are only about 17MPH ) but still has rear rack mounts and strong enough that the frame isn't too wobbly with the weight of all my gear ( it's very heavy but unloaded at my base camp / destination -- just getting to and from on/off the ferry fully loaded is important ) for those trips away.( not so worried about mudguards )
2 Hydraulic disc brakes is a must -- have had them for 3 years now with no bother whatsoever and they make packing the bike a lot easier.
3 105 or above group set
4 strong enough wheels that won't fall apart
5 £2k Max budget.
6 internal cable routing preferred if not then fully sheathed cables.
7 A slightly aggressive geometry to aggressive geometry. I don't like too much weight on my ars
8 A threaded BB if possible but not a deal breaker
9 I don't like compact frames cos I like the look of the more traditional road bike but again not a deal breaker ( the Arkose is just about OK in this area )
10 Brucey -- what you say about carbon frame aluminum inserts dissolving is scary so has put me off carbon frames.
The Arkose r2 seems to tick all of these boxes but would like to get some feedback from owners. May put a thread up to that effect. I live in ni and don't think Evans cycles are here so I wonder if they can do sale or return?

[Polisman]

I had a winter commuter bike up until recently, I specced it with mostly good quality second hand parts that I wasn't bothered about cosmetic appearance. Lots of good Ultegra and Dura Ace. I think it's crazy to put the big spend into a brand new commuter bike when you can have a top quality second hand one for a third of the price.

I built it round a 90s Reynolds 853 frame which I picked up for 95 quid and fitted a good quality pair of carbon forks. Wheels I went for.s nice tough pair of Ultegra 6800 which have a proven good life span and a pair of excellent puncture proof Bontrager carbon belted tyres.

All in it cost me about 500. Rode it hard every day, never washed it and oiled it whenever it got wet. Mechanical failures in 3.5 years: nil. Punctures: 4. Visits to bike shop: nil.

Running costs were a new pair of tyres and a chain/cassette at the end of the second year.

Best of all it was a great ride, stiff and lightweight at 18.5lbs including mudguards. You'll treasure a good quality steel frame over alu or carbon fir commuting anyday.

[Cowsham]

I had a winter commuter bike up until recently, I specced it with mostly good quality second hand parts that I wasn't bothered about cosmetic appearance. Lots of good Ultegra and Dura Ace. I think it's crazy to put the big spend into a brand new commuter bike when you can have a top quality second hand one for a third of the price.

I built it round a 90s Reynolds 853 frame which I picked up for 95 quid and fitted a good quality pair of carbon forks. Wheels I went for.s nice tough pair of Ultegra 6800 which have a proven good life span and a pair of excellent puncture proof Bontrager carbon belted tyres.

All in it cost me about 500. Rode it hard every day, never washed it and oiled it whenever it got wet. Mechanical failures in 3.5 years: nil. Punctures: 4. Visits to bike shop: nil.

Running costs were a new pair of tyres and a chain/cassette at the end of the second year.

Best of all it was a great ride, stiff and lightweight at 18.5lbs including mudguards. You'll treasure a good quality steel frame over alu or carbon fir commuting anyday.

Did you have much trouble getting the geometry right after changing stuff like the forks?