Upgrade bits Vs New Bike?

[Utterchaos23]

Hi All,

I'm pretty new to cycling as a sport and not just a way of getting around before I owned a car!

I own a Carrera Axle Limited Edition Hybrid... yes.. I know it's not big or cleaver but it's getting me fit and is vastly more pleasurable and cheaper than a gym membership!

However, I'm getting a bit frustrated with the clunky gear changes and the low top gear. My work has just started a cycle to work with Halfords so I have a decision to make.

My cycle route is mainly cycle paths but I do have to deal with big areas of Brighton's pebbly beach being chucked up onto the under-cliff path that can be a bit dodgy to ride over even with my hybrid tyres and my goal is fitness and weightless so I don't thing a super light frame will do me any favours?

So... two parts to my question New bike or pimp my current ride? and if pimping my ride what do I change and for what?!? I have a free service coming up so I believe I can get and Halfords supplied bits fitted as part of the service...

My bike's current spec is:

Approximate Weight (KG): 13.7kg
Brake Type: V-Brakes
Forks: Steel
Frame Material: Alloy
Gender: Mens
Number of Gears: 21
Pedals Included: Yes - Upgraded to Shimano SPD Pedal PD-M530
Suspension: Rigid
Wheel Size: 27.5"

Bottom Bracket: Square Taper. sealed
Cassette/Freewheel: 7 speed Screw fit
Chain: KMC Z51 7 speed
Chainset: Suntour Triple 48/38/28T
Frame: Aluminium MTB style
Front Brake: Tektro V Brake
Front Hub: Formula, Alloy
Front Mech: Shimano FD-M191
Gear Shifters: Shimano Trigger shifters 7 speed
Grips: Carrera Comfort grip
Handlebars: 660mm, 25.4
Headset: Integrated 1 1/8"
Pedals: Wellgo Alloy Flat
Quick Release Front Wheel: Yes
Quick Release Rear Wheel: Yes
Rear Brake: Tektro V Brake
Rear Hub: Formula, Alloy
Rear Mech: Shimano Tourney 7 speed
Rims: Aluminium with CNC sidewall
Saddle: Carrera Components Comfort Saddle
Seatpost: Carrera Components micro adjust seatpost
Stem: Carrera Components alloy stem, 25.4
Type: Hybrid Bikes
Tyre Size: 27.5" x 2.125
Tyres: Semi Slick Urban Pattern

Thanks for any input and please excuse any incorrect tech knowledge!!

Cheers.

[TrevA]

Low top gear? You have a 48 chainring and I guess an 11 or 12 smallest sprocket. That should be big enough for most things unless you want to really push on down hills. I have similar gears on my bike and spend most of my time in the middle ring and 13 or14 sprocket. If I do use the 48 ring, I'll be in the 16 tooth sprocket, unless we are having a sprint for the cafe and doing 25-30 mph.

I suspect you've fallen into the new rider's trap of riding around in a very big gear, it's actually more efficient and less tiring to learn to spin a smaller gear at a higher cadence.

[Utterchaos23]

Thanks TrevA

I suspect you've fallen into the new rider's trap of riding around in a very big gear, it's actually more efficient and less tiring to learn to spin a smaller gear at a higher cadence.

Looks like you maybe right, although its how I rode as a teenager, might not be the bast fitness/wieght-loss technique.
Just been reading this - "Most experienced cyclists pedal most of the time at high cadence with low force. This is a more efficient use of your limited energy than getting into a high gear and forcing the pedals round, and its kinder on your knees." from http://wheel-easy.org.uk/uploads/docume ... 02017a.pdf

Taking that into account, I still hate the gears even when they are setup properly (although, come to think of it, properly is only as good as the Halfords guy doing it)

[Brucey]

OP has a screw-on freewheel which means 14T is the smallest sprocket (maybe 13T)

48/14 gear is good for about 25mph at a cadence of about 90rpm. This isn't a super-high gear but tbh if you learn to pedal nicely (i.e. at about 90rpm) then it shouldn't be a big problem to you, except for very short sprints, or downhill and/or with a following wind.

My advice would be to ride it until the rear axle breaks (which is almost inevitable with that kind of setup) and then to assess your priorities.

If you must have bigger gears then bigger chainrings will net you a little benefit (and not without complications) but otherwise you need smaller sprockets. Smaller sprockets are most easily fitted to a cassette hub, but that means new chain, new sprockets, new rear hub (probably a new rear wheel; I don't think Halfords build wheels...). That lot will set you back about £100-£150 in parts, (plus labour probably). 'Probably not worth it' in my book...

cheers

[Utterchaos23]

Thanks Brucey,

Reckon you're right about changing gearing so thanks for that....

So... to clarify, you're suggesting I don't upgrade any bits to give me a smoother riding experience but run it into the ground (or sell it?) and start from scratch?

Cheers.

[Caulkheader]

Sounds like you have the Bike Care Plan service coming up which is pretty comprehensive. That gives you another option - get it serviced and sell it as a recently serviced bike. Then go for the cycle to work scheme, if you can afford it aim for the Boardman range and you will notice a significant improvement on the Axle which is an entry level Carrera. The latest Boardman CX range is worth looking at as an alternative to a hybrid. Halfords website often offers clearance models and if your not bothered about having the latest model offer very good value.

[Utterchaos23]

Thanks Caulkheader, you read my mind re sell after service.

I shall looking to the Boardmans - a Cycle Cross was one of the ranges I was thinking about.

Cheers.

[531colin]

Take a deep breath and try to think about what you really need, rather than getting fixated on a shiny new bike.
If I'm right you are currently riding a bike with flat bars and tyres wider than 2 inches.......and you don't enjoy the gravel on the cycle path.
Change to a bike with drop bars and tyres less than inch and a half wide, and you will enjoy it very much less.
I see you have been reading my stuff on bike fit....have another go through, this time concentrating on what I say about "riding" the bike, rather than sitting on the saddle like a sack of spuds. You need to ride "kissing the saddle"....(I borrowed that from somebody on here). Get your riding position right, and you can distribute your weight between the contact points, so the bike moves underneath you like a rocking horse. On gravel or anything slippy, maintain your speed and go in a straight line until you are back on firm ground, then sort out speed and direction. No sudden moves on gravel.
Pay attention to tyre pressures. I weigh 11 stone, my biggest tyres are about 2 inch, I run them at 30psi front, 40 back. If I put more air than that in, I don't go any faster, but i skitter about a lot more on gravel.
Have a poke around for advice on off-road technique, there must be plenty about.

[MarcusT]

YES!! Do it!. I'm tired of hearing from people that say "be happy with what you have". If you can afford it, and your wife won't throw out of the house, buy the bike that makes you happy. There are not any wars in the near future. There is no sign of a depression in the economy. If you want to spend a few on a bike that will make you feel good. Go for it. Of course, don't go overboard with carbon fiber and a group that you cannot pronounce, but, if you think it will up your game do it.

Do it!!! Life is short

[PH]

buy the bike that makes you happy.

I like my bikes as much as anyone, but it's always the cycling that make me happy.

[tim-b]

Hi
Read the scheme smallprint; I think that you can buy from independent shops as well as from Halfords, which may open up your choice
Upgrading to any great extent is often more expensive than buying a complete bike, caveat emptor
Regards
tim-b

[Utterchaos23]

Thanks all for your advice.

I think I have a plan. Ok.. so, I have two services left on my Axle so I get a service, set up the bike according to Colin's advice. Change my riding style using a cadence sensor (ordered) and see how it goes. I then have another service in the bag ready to tart it up for sale if I don't get on with it


I'm a trendy consumer. Just look at my wobbly bog brush using hovercraft full of eels Pro

[MikeF]

buy the bike that makes you happy.

But the key problem is knowing what that is. And I think that is the reason for the original post.

[Utterchaos23]

True.... I don't think I know what kind of bike I do want but the advice I've been kindly given means I can now set up my bike and riding style to try to work that out...


I'm a trendy consumer. Just look at my wobbly bog brush using hovercraft full of eels Pro

[PH]

Change my riding style using a cadence sensor (ordered) and see how it goes.

Gadgets can be fun, but you don't really need a sensor. Just counting for 10 seconds will be close enough. The advise I was given was to ride in a gear lower than I felt was right while maintaining the same speed, when this felt natural, try a gear lower. My cadence on the flat is 80ish, I ride with someone who's is a lot faster, we're both comfortable with that for long days in the saddle. My top gear is about 28 mph @ 80, I don't spend that much time in it!