Tubular Tyres

[Gattonero]

Adhesive tape for Tubulars is not meant to be reused. Been made of a plastic film with adhesive on both sides, what happens is that the tape separates between the two sides, leaving part on the rim and part on the tubular tyre.
That it's biggest drawback, while with glue you can always "revive" the leftovers on the rim with a little bit of fresh glue, this is how a tub is replaced in the field.

Whether the tubular tyre is glued or taped, it's removed around the valve, by wedging a plastic tyre lever and moving up/down until you get it trough the other side. It takes seconds, just make sure you wedge the lever between the basetape of the tyre and the rim, not between the basetape and the carcass of the tyre!

Loss of pressure depends greatly on the way the inner tube is made. Some brands would use latex tubes that would loose up to 30-40psi a day, other brands would use thin butyl tubes that may loose 10psi a month. Almost all the medium-low priced tubular tyres use standard butyl tubes, where the air loss is just as a normal inner tube in a tyre. There's nothing wrong in checking the tyre pressure every two weeks, and adjust accordingly.

[mattsccm]

As I said. Decent one, hence latex. All tubs that I have used since about 1980 do this. Well mine do.
Impressed with the sealant for this alone. Doubt it is reliable though but at least it keeps the tubs in shape.

Agreed tape separates which is why its has, to me, limited use. Its a one off use. Cannot conceive carrying spare tape on a ride.
Not sure about the lever idea. Could use a metal one if I had one. See above. But carry one? Nope. Not needed. Must admit that horses suit courses. Wet cold British weather is different to hot alpine descents and moving tubs is something I have never had to worry about. Getting the blighters off is my problem.

[Gattonero]

You have to carry one plastic tyre lever if using tubs. Ain't a big deal nor extra weight to speak of.

To be fair, on short rides I do not carry a spare tubular. Some good sealant (I've had good results several times with the Tufo Extreme) and the essential little thing to remove the valve core, is all it takes. Oh, and a good pump!

[pete75]

This video shows the correct way to fit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DLSG2WT0mc It's also advisable to put a couple of layers of glue on the tub and rim and letting it dry between each application if they are new.

That is exactly how to do it, from pre-stretch of the tyre on the rim, to de-burr the valve hole, and cleaning the contact surface.
I would only add: give a shot with the air-gun to the floor where you're going to lean the rim with the glue, so to remove any dust

He's doing it in Continental's workshop in Germany which looks immaculate so guess there's no need for that there whereas in our bike sheds....

[Des49]

I haven't used tubs for years.

I started using tub tape when it first became widely available. Shortly afterwards I moved to Spain and started to experience the tub rotating on the front rim under braking. If I didn't stop and reverse the front wheel in the dropouts from time to time the tube would fail around the valve. I put it down to the higher ambient temperatures and the heat generated from braking on long alpine style descents. Does anyone know if this is still a problem with modern tub tapes?

Yes, the Jantex tape will still do this. When using just a front brake when riding fixed it happens very easily necessitating a stop to reverse the wheel so the valve won't snap off.

Since using that Effetto Mariposa Carogna tub tape I linked to above I have found no problems. This is using an aluminium rim (Mavic GEL330) which may get hotter than modern carbon rims.

[foxyrider]

I haven't used tubs for years.

I started using tub tape when it first became widely available. Shortly afterwards I moved to Spain and started to experience the tub rotating on the front rim under braking. If I didn't stop and reverse the front wheel in the dropouts from time to time the tube would fail around the valve. I put it down to the higher ambient temperatures and the heat generated from braking on long alpine style descents. Does anyone know if this is still a problem with modern tub tapes?

Not something I ever came across 'back in the day' but have seen this more recently on a warm day in the Peak District where using the brakes is, Gattonerro, a requirement to safe riding!

Braking style ie dragging the brakes can obviously cause greater heat build up, i've had a tyre go from heat on a PD descent - the rim was hot enough to burn my hand when I removed the wheel!

Most rolling tubs i've seen have been in warmer conditions (although I have seen same when unaware of needing glue people have fitted dry!)

[thirdcrank]

... Braking style ie dragging the brakes can obviously cause greater heat build up ...

FWIW, I don't think that bit's right. For a given amount of deceleration, you will convert the same amount of kinetic (?) energy into heat energy pretty much however you brake. As the chap in the Startrekkin song says, "Ye cannae change the laws of physics, Jim."

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=st ... ORM=VRDGAR

[foxyrider]

... Braking style ie dragging the brakes can obviously cause greater heat build up ...

FWIW, I don't think that bit's right. For a given amount of deceleration, you will convert the same amount of kinetic (?) energy into heat energy pretty much however you brake.

There might be (i'm not a physicist so I can't argue the point with any authority) the same kinetic energy transfer but it's also true that short sharp braking is less damaging than long drag braking. It's the slow build of heat rather than the terminal temperature that is the issue whether it's tub glue or a disc rotor.