Best Brake Blocks for rim brakes

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
T.B.O. I was more afraid of going up Porlock and Lynton, the only thought that goes through my mind is that the chain is tested and that's not the time to find a weakness, Countisbury is not as bad, all in the saddle but problem is then to stay upright at that speed.

Modern brakes should stop you on those hills, I no nowt about modern road stuff, so Bruceys suggestion might bear weight, I have have new bikes where the brake lever and calliper were incompatible as to be very dangerous.

Even old canti setups will stop you with a load, assuming that the lever is correct.
Your brakes need sorting for sure.

[Samuel D]

I didn't know about the caliper/lever issue. Is there a Tektro model that would be better suited to the Ultegra 6800 shifter?

Better than what? You don’t say what callipers you currently have.

If you have a 10-speed triple set-up, the shifters cannot be ST-6800.

I don’t know this hill you speak of, but by the comments it sounds steep. Perhaps you overheated your brakes on a slow descent. Your disc-braked bicycle may fare worse in such circumstances even if it usually brakes better. The ratio of typical rider mass to typical disc mass is high enough to worry me.

[mjr]

I don't rate Shimano pads. I use fibrax but they're getting harder to find so I've just bought some BBB techstop after a recommendation somewhere.

[The utility cyclist]

If you want a better-matched caliper I think there are some Tektro models that are better in this respect.

BTW I would second the vote for Fibrax brake blocks; certainly worth a go.

cheers

I didn't know about the caliper/lever issue. Is there a Tektro model that would be better suited to the Ultegra 6800 shifter?

the pros manage with the shimano long drop with Dura ace 9000/9100/Di2 just fine on cobbled stages with carbon rims, 2014 but also various deep drop at the 2016 event.
https://roadcyclinguk.com/gear/photo-ga ... t-two.html

[tooley92]

I don't rate Shimano pads. I use fibrax but they're getting harder to find so I've just bought some BBB techstop after a recommendation somewhere.

eBay is a good source of Fibrax pads, I'm sure they always had a stand at the York Rally.

[JohnW]

I don't rate Shimano pads. I use fibrax but they're getting harder to find so I've just bought some BBB techstop after a recommendation somewhere.

eBay is a good source of Fibrax pads, I'm sure they always had a stand at the York Rally.

Look at the Fibrax website - I think you can buy them direct.

[mnichols]

If you have a 10-speed triple set-up, the shifters cannot be ST-6800

Maybe they are 6700? The 6800 may be the 11 speed compact on my Synapse

All I know is that it's a 10 speed triple Ultegra Groupset - shifters, mechs and callipers. The wheels are also Ultegra- I'm pretty sure these are called 6800, but they were bought separately. I had an Ultegra Chainset as well but recently swapped this for a lovely Spa one - looks much nicer

[mjr]

I don't rate Shimano pads. I use fibrax but they're getting harder to find so I've just bought some BBB techstop after a recommendation somewhere.

eBay is a good source of Fibrax pads, I'm sure they always had a stand at the York Rally.

Look at the Fibrax website - I think you can but them direct.

All well and good except I may be on tour and realise that I need new blocks, plus I like encouraging local bike shops to stock useful consumables.

[Spinners]

I didn't know about the caliper/lever issue. Is there a Tektro model that would be better suited to the Ultegra 6800 shifter?

TRP RG957 which are available in black, grey and silver. I bit pricey mind you.

[mnichols]

Cycling back fro Exmoor today I had plenty of time to think about this:

The cable stretch makes sense: I have had to tighten the gear cable every few rides recently which would suggest that this is also stretching, although the barrel adjuster maybe slipping as there doesn't seem to be anything to stop it happening

I seem to have to pull the levers in a lot for what seems like a much smaller movement at the brake calliper, particularly the back - so I'm keen to know more about shifter/calliper compatibility. Though I don't know what model either is other than they were bought as a groupset and they say Ultegra- I actually bought them second hand off someone who bought a bike, upgraded the groupset to Dura-Ace and sold the Ultegra off unused, but without the boxes.

I'm going to try different pads. Mine need replacing anyway, and I think the worse case is that they don't improve anything, but I'm unlikely to be any worse off.

I haven't replaced the outers for the last few cable changes so as this doesn't cost much and my current ones are a bit short (for when I take bars off for flying).

If replacing the cables, outers and blocks doesn't work I'll replace the calipers

I also need to replace my chain, cassette and service the bearings in my wheels so as I've just changed the bottom bracket and chainset that should be a good service

The only thing I haven't done is the headset, but that's not causing any problems. Also replaced the stem, handlebars and seat post last year after the seat post snapped mid tour

[rjb]

I've never had any issues descending those hills on exmoor. The last 200 meters at the bottom of Countisbury as you drop into Lynmouth is pretty steep. There used to be a sign advising cyclists to dismount and walk, but this was before braking improved to current standards. I have descended those hills on a variety of bikes with mainly Shimano cantilevers or dual pivots. All with their original brake pads without issue. If its wet then you have to brake earlier, if you see the road steepening then you scrub some speed off earlier. Providing you are sensible then stopping isn't an issue. Perhaps as a 9 1/2 stone lightweight stopping isn't such a big issue for me.

[JohnW]

eBay is a good source of Fibrax pads, I'm sure they always had a stand at the York Rally.

Look at the Fibrax website - I think you can but them direct.

All well and good except I may be on tour and realise that I need new blocks, plus I like encouraging local bike shops to stock useful consumables.

Well absolutely - I buy my Fibrax blocks at my LBS. My response was to you (above) who said that you'd had difficulty in finding them. I was trying to be helpful to someone in apparent difficulty.

As for on a tour - whatever your choice of brakeblocks you're dependant upon what the bike shop that you find in an emergency has in stock. The same applies if he doesn't stock your BBB blocks.

[elPedro666]

I haven't spotted anyone suggesting that you clean your rims yet, although I probably just missed it...

With clean rims, fresh pads and good quality cables you should be able to stand the bike on its nose with one finger - as with gear shifting I'd always accuse the cables of being the weak link before anything else. Pad contact angles matter too - tiny bit of toe-in can make a big difference.

I'm a trendy consumer. Just look at my wobbly using hovercraft full of eels.

[alexnharvey]

I thought it worth mentioning that the large movement at the lever to small movement at the caliper you described could be a description of mechanical advantage working correctly rather than indicating any problem.

Also, whilst checking toe in it may be worth checking that the pads are adjusted so that the arc of their movement is such that they move mostly towards the rim rather than across it. I have had to swap the thinner and thicker washers on the brake pad threaded post to maintain this as the pad wears.

+1 for scrubbing rims and pads too.

[JohnW]

I haven't spotted anyone suggesting that you clean your rims yet, although I probably just missed it...

With clean rims, fresh pads and good quality cables you should be able to stand the bike on its nose with one finger - as with gear shifting I'd always accuse the cables of being the weak link before anything else. Pad contact angles matter too - tiny bit of toe-in can make a big difference.

It's a composting toilet -> my wobbly using hovercraft full of eels.

I did say that keeping brakes adjusted and rims clean is part of it.....................and I do agree with you. Actually, keeping the pads clean is also of real benefit - the little bits of alu shards that come off the rims don't help with braking efficiency - especially in the wet.