Cycling UK Forum

fastpedaller wrote:The 2 pack paints are very durable - I'm in the process of painting a GRP (glassfibre) car using 2 pack yacht paints (polyurethane), and to rub down the paint with wet/dry paper takes some effort (especially to 'get it started'). It is reassuringly tough stuff! (apparently some 2 packs on cars are 'soft' others 'hard'

When I bought a Hewitt Cheviot in 2003, I chose a custom colour and it came in what I think was a soft polyurethane - deep gloss, felt like plastic, it got knocked it would scuff and despite some rough handling never scraped off or chipped - an accident required a respray in 2014 and although it's a nice enough finish it isn't anything like as tough.
I've only seen one frame that looked similar to the original, the rider was very happy with it, he'd had it resprayed by a company in Edinburgh who I'm tempted to use next time I need a frame doing
http://www.hendersonsmetalcleaning.co.u ... cycles.php

years ago I wanted to have my frame hot dip galvanised so it looked like a farm gate. I figured it would make it rustproof undesirable at first glance and last 20 odd years.

couldn't find anywhere to do it locally though.

I think a lot of the issues are tradesmen and current attitudes to disposibility. tradement are less craftsmen and more competent DIYers now with everything designed to be done super quick with no pride in the work.

crazydave789 wrote:years ago I wanted to have my frame hot dip galvanised so it looked like a farm gate. I figured it would make it rustproof undesirable at first glance and last 20 odd years.

couldn't find anywhere to do it locally though.

I think a lot of the issues are tradesmen and current attitudes to disposibility. tradement are less craftsmen and more competent DIYers now with everything designed to be done super quick with no pride in the work.

Hot dip galvanising has some special requirement (usually 6mm holes!) so the small holes in chainstays, seatstays or forks to allow for brazing may not be bit enough. I had some car parts hot dip galvanised (after shot blasting to remove the rust) 30 years ago - the guy who did it said "don't let them go rusty again" so I said 'oh as they're galvanised I didn't expect them to rust again' to which he said 'well..... give it 15 years'. I then said "I'm going to paint them with calcium plumbate primer, then undercoat and Dulux gloss" to which he replied "In that case if they go rusty, and I'm still alive, bring them back and I'll do them for free"

I got a Black Mountain Monster Cross,
Interesting, painted then transfers then powder clear.
Looks good and wearing well.

Is it true that modern finishes are less durable because nasty chemicals may no longer be used? Anyone with specialist knowledge?

Could be a rare example of "progress without improvement"

Well, there are generally fewer carcinogens floating about, which I think most would consider progress...

(For instance, Nitromors and other such paint strippers no longer contain dichloromethane, which is a volatile nasty. IIRC you can still get DCM-based products, but only if you have a proper fume protection system, which limits it to the pros.)

JakobW wrote: TBH I've no great complaints about the durability of my Bob Jackson respray; any chips or scrapes have been where I've banged the frame hard, and it's easy enough to touch up with modelling enamel; in contrast I've had trad enameled bikes that would chip as soon as you looked at them....

any pics? How did it come out?

cheers

I can't seem to get a photo of the bicycle to load, but there's a photo of the bare frame on LFGSS here: https://www.lfgss.com/comments/13572149/

As I said, I'm pretty happy with the finish - have had the odd scrape, but Humbrol Brunswick Green enamel is a perfect match, so no problems there.

the old girl looks good! Just need to knock up some decals I guess?

cheers

Brucey

I love the candy cane\barbers shop thing they do on the seat tube.

best paint sprayer ive used is chris marshall