Going tubeless

Trips, adventures, bikes, equipment, etc.
User avatar
BambooKiro
Posts: 8
Joined: 11 Dec 2018, 4:40pm

Going tubeless

Postby BambooKiro » 8 Jan 2019, 2:40pm

My MTB came with tubeless ready tyres and rims and inner tubes installed.

I've been riding it for a year and only had one problem with the valve, which got damaged by a rock on a very fast decent, which resulted in a flat. Otherwise - no punctures.

There is plenty of advice on the internet why one should convert to tubeless - greatly improved puncture resistance, rolling resistance and weight, to mention a few.

But so far my need to convert to tubeless is overwhelmed by my confidence patching up inner tubes.

Yet, I'm kind of curious what do people think about tubeless? Is it worth it?

How much extra work and maintenance does it involve? I've heard that you have to top up the sealant regularly.

Anything else?

hamster
Posts: 3014
Joined: 2 Feb 2007, 12:42pm

Re: Going tubeless

Postby hamster » 9 Jan 2019, 9:14am

On the puncture side, a lot depends on your local area. If you usually find it's thorns, great. The slime-type solutions work well. Round me it's flints, which tend ot put a cut of 5-10mm in a tyre. These are impossible to re-seal (you have to use the anchovy thingies) and it seems to take as long as swapping a tube.

MarcusT
Posts: 212
Joined: 31 Jan 2017, 10:33am

Re: Going tubeless

Postby MarcusT » 19 Jan 2019, 3:21am

Another problem with tubeless; if you go flat you will need an air compressor to re-inflate.
I wish it were simple as riding a bike

User avatar
RickH
Posts: 4067
Joined: 5 Mar 2012, 6:39pm
Location: Horwich, Lancs.

Re: Going tubeless

Postby RickH » 20 Jan 2019, 1:10am

MarcusT wrote:Another problem with tubeless; if you go flat you will need an air compressor to re-inflate.

Yes if you take off the tyre (or at least unseat the beads) you may well do.

If you can sort the cause in situ - extra sealant, "anchovies", etc. - then an ordinary pump will do the job.

If you have to add a tube that should help to seat the tyre as you inflate it as the effect of adding air pressure into a tube will be different to adding the pressure while tubeless - air in a tube presses out in all directions, but is contained by the tube. In a tubeless system it is tending more to just "look" for a means of escape (the blast from a compressor just gives an extra quick push of air pressure to effect the seal before too much escapes).

speedy7777
Posts: 11
Joined: 24 Sep 2017, 11:20pm

Re: Going tubeless

Postby speedy7777 » 4 Feb 2019, 9:38pm

Im Just about to try it on a bike. It sounds like the bike should be used regularly otherwise the sealant can coagulate in a lump at the bottom. Finish line sells a type of sealant that is supposed to not need refreshing so often as its not latex based.
You will have to make sure your rims are also tubeless ready. Eg if they are mavic ust rims or do you need to apply some gorilla tape or other tubeless specific tape. If out on a long ride you can take a spare tube and fit it in case of major tubeless malfunction. A syringe to measure and inject the sealant through the valve (after core removed) might be usefull.
The guy over at rolling resistance dot com recons its the future which is what got me to consider it properly.
I dont think its a case of topping up sealant rather changeing it as it gets old after 6 months or so from what i hear.

speedy7777
Posts: 11
Joined: 24 Sep 2017, 11:20pm

Re: Going tubeless

Postby speedy7777 » 4 Feb 2019, 10:52pm

edit that, elsewhere on here people say topping up every 6 months rather than replacing is how to do it.

<< EDIT : Graham : Try using the EDIT button on your original post. It's the one with the pencil icon. >>
Last edited by Graham on 11 Mar 2019, 7:34pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: education & training

User avatar
BambooKiro
Posts: 8
Joined: 11 Dec 2018, 4:40pm

Re: Going tubeless

Postby BambooKiro » 8 Mar 2019, 2:27pm

speedy7777 wrote:Im Just about to try it on a bike. It sounds like the bike should be used regularly otherwise the sealant can coagulate in a lump at the bottom. Finish line sells a type of sealant that is supposed to not need refreshing so often as its not latex based.

Let me know what you think of the Finish Line sealant. I've read reports that it's too thick and does not seal the punctures easily.

I've also heard of riders using agricultural tyre sealant OKO, which is non silicon based and is a lot cheaper than Finish Line. Apperantly one can "water down" OKO sealant so it works well on bicycle tyres.