Threaded headset tabbed washer - purpose?

[Sweep]

Should be a simple question for you folks.

What is the point of the tab on the washer in a threaded headset?

I realise that the tab should go into the slot on the steerer and if you aren't carteful the litle devil can start eating away at the threads.

The combined canti brake hanger and spacer on some of my threaded headsets (more of that in another thread) has a tab but I can see the point of that - it keeps the brake cable in place and it wouldn't be a good idea to have it shifting.

Did I imagine it in the back of my mind but do some folk file off the tab to avoid the potential for thread damage?

[Brucey]

the tab allows you to retighten the locknut without using a second spanner. This is handy if you are out on the road, unnecessary if you are able to use two spanners in the workshop.

cheers

[Sweep]

the tab allows you to retighten the locknut without using a second spanner. This is handy if you are out on the road, unnecessary if you are able to use two spanners in the workshop.

cheers

Thanks brucey - I had the idea that I had read that.

So I can relax - not strictly necessary.

Though must admit my non techie mind still confused - the tab is horizontal and slots into the steerer - how does it stop something above or below it turning?

For pretty sure that even using two spanners I have managed, if not careful, to tighten the bearing cup beyond what I wanted when tightening up the locknut.

[Brucey]

the tabbed washer prevents the adjusting race from being turned by the locknut as the locknut is tightened. Once the locknut is tight, it doesn't really matter if there is a tabbed washer or not.

FWIW to obtain the correct adjustment you should tighten the locknut against the adjusting race and there should initially be a little slack in the bearing. Then back the locknut off, increment the adjusting race tighter (about 1/20th of a turn), then retighten the locknut. Repeat until there is no free play in the bearing when the locknut is tightened.

cheers

[Sweep]

thanks brucey.

[jb]

Unfortunately, although what Brucey says is correct, the groove in the headset tube is usually far too shallow to be of use.

[Des49]

Most of my bikes (all 1" threaded except for one) have tabs or flats on the washer. Recently I replaced some forks and had to cut a new keyway for a tabbed washer and posted on how to do this:-

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=128515

The suggestion was that the tabbed washer wasn't necessary and so I tried without this, certainly easier not to cut a keyway in the steerer tube.

I can report that the headset has not loosened and I am happy to continue like this.

[Sweep]

Thanks des.
Maybe my question wasn't as daft as I feared

[bluespeeder]

I know this is an old "thread" but does anyone else have experience with removing the tab on the spacer between the locknut and adjusting nut on a 1" threaded steerer?
I have just re-adjusted my headset after it developed a small amount of play. Before adjusting it looked as if the locknut and tabbed washer were locked together and moving independent to the adjusting nut. I have a suspicion the tab is jamming in the threads preventing the locknut pushing down on the adjusting nut. I am considering filing off the tab to save damaging the threads and hopefully make adjustment easier.
I found the only way I could lock the nuts together was "undoing" the adjusting nut into the stationary locknut. Seems OK for now - no play and not too stiff but I am thinking of getting rid of the tab next time I disassemble.

[531colin]

Inch steerer tube has a wall thickness of one sixteenth of an inch.....thats not much.
Once the threads are cut into it, there isn't much metal left.
The tab of the tabbed washer is supposed to run up and down in a groove cut in the outside of the steerer; that groove can only be the depth of the thread.
I never found the tabbed washer very effective; If you turn the locknut, the adjusting nut will turn unless you also have a spanner on it.

[Stradageek]

Inch steerer tube has a wall thickness of one sixteenth of an inch.....thats not much.
Once the threads are cut into it, there isn't much metal left.
The tab of the tabbed washer is supposed to run up and down in a groove cut in the outside of the steerer; that groove can only be the depth of the thread.
I never found the tabbed washer very effective; If you turn the locknut, the adjusting nut will turn unless you also have a spanner on it.

+1, I've found the tab mostly useless, for the reasons stated above, and often file it off to avoid both the damage it can cause and the possible/probable impediment to smooth adjustment - with no dire consequences

[Valbrona]

Headset locknuts tend to require quite a lot of torque that is difficult to achieve with sub-standard tools, hence the need for something like this-