Shimano M324 pedal prob
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rogerzilla
- Posts: 3149
- Joined: 9 Jun 2008, 8:06pm
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
I have the PD33 and it fits well. Doesn't help with ball placement though. A very, very weakly magnetised pointer helps, where the stickiness of the grease can overcome the magnetism.
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
rogerzilla wrote:I have the PD33 and it fits well. Doesn't help with ball placement though. A very, very weakly magnetised pointer helps, where the stickiness of the grease can overcome the magnetism.
Many ball end hex keys are magnetised and i find them ideal for such fiddly tasks. Different sizes have different degrees of magnetism.
Edit, just after i wrote this i saw a vid from cycling weekly on hub servicing. The chap said you shouldn't use anything magnetised as it would magnetise the bearings and this would mean they would attract metal crud. Seemed bonkers to me, in a vid that then completed the job without even covering adjustment. Views anyone? Instead he recommended using a floppy ziptie. Looked like guaranteed teeth gnashing to me.
Last edited by Sweep on 13 Nov 2020, 5:57am, edited 1 time in total.
Sweep
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
Brucey wrote:I made my own tools to do this job. It wasn't that difficult.
Others have occasionally found the TL-PD33 tool for cheap (around £15).
cheers
I can just see in my childhood mind’s eye what might have been a spEcialist or an el cheapo socket set, comprising hexagonal tubes - presumably if such a thing exists, the thin one will operate through the thicker?
Spa Audax Ti Ultegra; Genesis Equilibrium 853; Raleigh Record Ace 1983; “Raleigh Competition”, “Raleigh Gran Sport 1982”; “Allegro Special”, Bob Jackson tourer, Ridley alu step-through with Swytch front wheel; gravel bike from an MB Dronfield 531 frame.
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
Box spanner https://www.screwfix.com/p/box-spanner-set-8-pieces/8319v#product_additional_details_container
My recollection is that the Shimano spanners are quite thin (and well-finished) and I don't know if cheap box spanners formed relatively crudely from tube would do the job.
Those particular Screwfix ones don't look like one spanner would turn inside another.....not sure how you would hold/turn both spanners at the same time....I guess you could cut them down?....weld a handle to the outer one?
My recollection is that the Shimano spanners are quite thin (and well-finished) and I don't know if cheap box spanners formed relatively crudely from tube would do the job.
Those particular Screwfix ones don't look like one spanner would turn inside another.....not sure how you would hold/turn both spanners at the same time....I guess you could cut them down?....weld a handle to the outer one?
Bike fitting D.I.Y. .....http://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/upl ... -2017a.pdf
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Remember, anything you do (or don't do) to your bike can have safety implications
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Remember, anything you do (or don't do) to your bike can have safety implications
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
531colin wrote:Box spanner https://www.screwfix.com/p/box-spanner-set-8-pieces/8319v#product_additional_details_container
My recollection is that the Shimano spanners are quite thin (and well-finished) and I don't know if cheap box spanners formed relatively crudely from tube would do the job.
Those particular Screwfix ones don't look like one spanner would turn inside another.....not sure how you would hold/turn both spanners at the same time....I guess you could cut them down?....weld a handle to the outer one?
Colin I did try what you suggest a while back. to get the inner spanner to fit into the outer one I had to file it down. This dangerously thinned the "corner" of the box spanner with disastrous results.. and it was all going so well !!!
I now have the special tool which is exquisitely cast in seemingly much stronger steel than the box spanner - but still has thicker material at the "corners" to protect against the otherwise very thin wall cracking under load. Hence having to file down the nut "corners" to get it to work properly. Resistance is futile - buy the tool
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
2 more pics...showing the very tight sidewall tolerances... and the fit into the PD-M324 pedal. A brave effort ... but ultimately a failure..
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
Sweep wrote:…. i saw a vid from cycling weekly on hub servicing. The chap said you shouldn't use anything magnetised as it would magnetise the bearings and this would mean they would attract metal crud. Seemed bonkers to me....
if you use a strong magnet the balls will indeed be magnetised. However a magnet that is just strong enough to pick balls up won't permanently magnetise the balls. You can easily demonstrate this to yourself; magnetised balls (dry and grease-free of course) stick to one another, and unmagnetized balls don't.
BTW I agree that the correct adjustment method is at least as important as the rest of it. In fact without suitable adjustment the rest of it is a waste of time, or likely to do more harm than good.
cheers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
Brucey wrote:Sweep wrote:…. i saw a vid from cycling weekly on hub servicing. The chap said you shouldn't use anything magnetised as it would magnetise the bearings and this would mean they would attract metal crud. Seemed bonkers to me....
if you use a strong magnet the balls will indeed be magnetised. However a magnet that is just strong enough to pick balls up won't permanently magnetise the balls. You can easily demonstrate this to yourself; magnetised balls (dry and grease-free of course) stick to one another, and unmagnetized balls don't.
BTW I agree that the correct adjustment method is at least as important as the rest of it. In fact without suitable adjustment the rest of it is a waste of time, or likely to do more harm than good.
cheers
maybe I'll try to dig out the vid - basically he screwed the cones back on, tightened the locknut and miraculously it was just perfect so back in the forks and ride on. I wish I had his talents.
Sweep
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
531colin wrote:Box spanner https://www.screwfix.com/p/box-spanner-set-8-pieces/8319v#product_additional_details_container
My recollection is that the Shimano spanners are quite thin (and well-finished) and I don't know if cheap box spanners formed relatively crudely from tube would do the job.
Those particular Screwfix ones don't look like one spanner would turn inside another.....not sure how you would hold/turn both spanners at the same time....I guess you could cut them down?....weld a handle to the outer one?
At £59 for the real McCoy, I’m willing to try. That said, I’ve done three pairs and finished by backing the ball race into the locknut.
Spa Audax Ti Ultegra; Genesis Equilibrium 853; Raleigh Record Ace 1983; “Raleigh Competition”, “Raleigh Gran Sport 1982”; “Allegro Special”, Bob Jackson tourer, Ridley alu step-through with Swytch front wheel; gravel bike from an MB Dronfield 531 frame.
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
David9694 wrote:531colin wrote:Box spanner https://www.screwfix.com/p/box-spanner-set-8-pieces/8319v#product_additional_details_container
My recollection is that the Shimano spanners are quite thin (and well-finished) and I don't know if cheap box spanners formed relatively crudely from tube would do the job.
Those particular Screwfix ones don't look like one spanner would turn inside another.....not sure how you would hold/turn both spanners at the same time....I guess you could cut them down?....weld a handle to the outer one?
At £59 for the real McCoy, I’m willing to try. That said, I’ve done three pairs and finished by backing the ball race into the locknut.
ok well if you manage to pull it off do post some pics up of the final thing. My advice is to be really careful slimming down the inner box spanner to fit inside the outer one...I went too far with mine as you can see from the pics I have posted above and thinned the wall too far. BikeInn has the tool cheaper BTW and would be my chosen option..particularly if you have more than one PD-M324 to fix.
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
FWIW I have made several sets of special nesting sockets for pedal maintenance (shimano are far from alone in the 'no tab washer' designs...
) and some of them definitely work best if the socket for the cone has a large diameter counterbore inside it. Most of the tools I have made have been modified sockets from a cheap socket set, normally full hex with a 1/4" drive originally.
For example a 13mm cone is often paired with a 10mm locknut. This works best if the 13mm socket is bored to about 14mm over most of its length, so that there is a step inside and only the last 2-3mm has the 13mm hex on it. You may also need to make a step on the outside diameter since the nose of the socket would otherwise be at least 16mm and this might enter the pedal body but not the bearing 'cup' and therefore prevent good engagement with the cone.
If you manage such a counterbore in the larger socket this can allow you to use a larger socket on the locknut, with thicker walls.
However even if you bore the larger socket to a smaller diameter, such that the locknut socket is almost broken through on the corners, the tool may still work OK, provided the inner socket is a close fit inside the larger one. If the fit is good enough, the inner socket will still drive the locknut even if it splits.
Obviously if you have good workshop tools at your disposal you can make special tools quite well, and quite easily too. However even if you have (say) little more than an electric drill and a Dremel tool, you can make tools for this job. It won't be super quick and you will get through a few stones in the Dremel tool too, but you can do it. You can reshape the sockets roughly using the Dremel tool. Then you can mount the sockets in the electric drill which then becomes 'a lathe' and make them have nice diameters internal and external.
The external socket can have flats ground on it so that it can be held using a larger spanner if necessary. The internal socket can use whatever is the usual drive method.
It is of course tremendously satisfying to make your own tools.
cheers
For example a 13mm cone is often paired with a 10mm locknut. This works best if the 13mm socket is bored to about 14mm over most of its length, so that there is a step inside and only the last 2-3mm has the 13mm hex on it. You may also need to make a step on the outside diameter since the nose of the socket would otherwise be at least 16mm and this might enter the pedal body but not the bearing 'cup' and therefore prevent good engagement with the cone.
If you manage such a counterbore in the larger socket this can allow you to use a larger socket on the locknut, with thicker walls.
However even if you bore the larger socket to a smaller diameter, such that the locknut socket is almost broken through on the corners, the tool may still work OK, provided the inner socket is a close fit inside the larger one. If the fit is good enough, the inner socket will still drive the locknut even if it splits.
Obviously if you have good workshop tools at your disposal you can make special tools quite well, and quite easily too. However even if you have (say) little more than an electric drill and a Dremel tool, you can make tools for this job. It won't be super quick and you will get through a few stones in the Dremel tool too, but you can do it. You can reshape the sockets roughly using the Dremel tool. Then you can mount the sockets in the electric drill which then becomes 'a lathe' and make them have nice diameters internal and external.
The external socket can have flats ground on it so that it can be held using a larger spanner if necessary. The internal socket can use whatever is the usual drive method.
It is of course tremendously satisfying to make your own tools.
cheers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
What D-locks is this??
Spa Audax Ti Ultegra; Genesis Equilibrium 853; Raleigh Record Ace 1983; “Raleigh Competition”, “Raleigh Gran Sport 1982”; “Allegro Special”, Bob Jackson tourer, Ridley alu step-through with Swytch front wheel; gravel bike from an MB Dronfield 531 frame.
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
David9694 wrote:A32902CC-4321-4DF5-B29F-CFF4774EA769.png
What D-locks is this??
oh oh !!!
I found this .. specifically about BikeInn. They seem to be saying its a coding error so maybe an email to them might sort it out ?
https://road.cc/content/tech-news/shima ... ler-275311
Maybe try telephoning the order instead ?
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
zenitb wrote:David9694 wrote:A32902CC-4321-4DF5-B29F-CFF4774EA769.png
What D-locks is this??
oh oh !!!
I found this .. specifically about BikeInn. They seem to be saying its a coding error so maybe an email to them might sort it out ?
bikeinn.JPG
bikeinn2.JPG
https://road.cc/content/tech-news/shima ... ler-275311
Maybe try telephoning the order instead ?
Thanks - and well remembered.
Spa Audax Ti Ultegra; Genesis Equilibrium 853; Raleigh Record Ace 1983; “Raleigh Competition”, “Raleigh Gran Sport 1982”; “Allegro Special”, Bob Jackson tourer, Ridley alu step-through with Swytch front wheel; gravel bike from an MB Dronfield 531 frame.
Re: Shimano M324 pedal prob
I’ve taken the plunge on the TL 33 with Bike-Discount - “one more order from Germany before Brexit” I keep saying to myself.
Spa Audax Ti Ultegra; Genesis Equilibrium 853; Raleigh Record Ace 1983; “Raleigh Competition”, “Raleigh Gran Sport 1982”; “Allegro Special”, Bob Jackson tourer, Ridley alu step-through with Swytch front wheel; gravel bike from an MB Dronfield 531 frame.