Rohloff questions

[Tiberius]

I have a Troll with the OEM2 plate.

It works well. To get the chain off I just loosen the QR, flop the chain tug off to one side, push the wheel forward a touch and the chain can be derailed from the chainset and set to one side off the sprocket so allowing the wheel to be pulled back.

The OEM bolt only stops the left hand side of the hub moving forward The right side can move plenty to derail the chain.

I think the Surly system is fine. It's a shame that Genesis didn't keep on with the OEM bolt slot.

If I was starting from scratch I'd probably consider using a nutted axle Rohloff... My hub was transplanted from a bike with the OEM 1 system.

I had a Surly Troll/Rohloff....still got the Troll, Rohloff transplanted elsewhere, and I agree with all of that.

I built it up from scratch and decided on the solid axel hub (I've never really liked QRs anyway) and it all performed very well. I even added a Surly Tugnut to the drive side, a bit 'belt and braces' but I found that it helped with wheel alignment.

I know exactly what is going through 531colin's head as I went through a similar dilema when I transplanted the Rohloff into a Van Nicholas Amazon Cross. All OM2/Monkeybone/Chain tensioner/Disc brake - I was gobsmacked when it all slid together and worked perfectly (I knew that it SHOULD, but...... ) On it's maiden voyage I got a flat in the rear five miles from home. Wheel out, new tube, wheel straight back in no problem. Getting everything to line up in one go sounds tricky, but it really isn't that difficult. I guess that if you've built the bike up yourself from scratch, you just sort of 'know' how it all goes together.

[531colin]

That's the wrong disc mount adapter, but it looks like there will be room for the torque arm.

[slowster]

Methinks we might be seeing a complete bike very soon. What parts and components are you planning to use?

I'll put in a recommendation for Hope's 160mm Rohloff compatible disc: it's cheaper than the Rohloff brand ones, is a suitable thickness for BB7 calipers, and I suspect is better quality than the Rohloff discs (no rust spots to date).

[Brucey]

IMG_5121.JPG

That's the wrong disc mount adapter, but it looks like there will be room for the torque arm.

Nice. It occurs to me that if you are using a tensioner and the wheel is always going back in the same place, the clearance between the caliper mount and the OEM2 plate could be made to be (deliberately) small, such that the OEM2 plate might 'find its own way' and this might make getting the wheel in easier than it might be otherwise....?

cheers

[hamish]

When replacing the wheel you have got the the external gear transfer box sticking out that you can use to steer the OEM2 plate with; so it is easy to get it lined up.

[531colin]

... the clearance between the caliper mount and the OEM2 plate could be made to be (deliberately) small, such that the OEM2 plate might 'find its own way' and this might make getting the wheel in easier than it might be otherwise....?...

Same thought occurred to me.....

[Brucey]

Same thought occurred to me.....

"great minds think alike"....?

or "fools seldom differ..."....?



cheers

[PH]

Same thought occurred to me.....

"great minds think alike"....?

or "fools seldom differ..."....?



cheers

Hadn't occurred to me
Though I'm now looking at ways I might implement it.

[Brucey]

an easy way of achieving this might be to either

a) engineer a bracket that the M6 bolt passes through (the loads would be low so the bracket needn't be thick and you will need a washer anyway...?) or
b) a bit of weld build-up on the edge of the OEM2 plate.

cheers

[531colin]

…..Hadn't occurred to me
Though I'm now looking at ways I might implement it.

Of course, both the reaction arm and disc caliper mount adapter are relatively thin, and the reaction arm can waggle about from side to side.....my favourite so far would be a broad "ramp" attached to the caliper adapter; the attachment will have to be firm but not in the way or damaging anything......Hmmmmm

[Brucey]

0.8mm or 1.0mm stainless sheet with a folded bend in it might do to make a suitable 'ramp', and can fit between the disc caliper mount and the frame if there is enough clearance?

cheers

[531colin]

Methinks we might be seeing a complete bike very soon. What parts and components are you planning to use?.....

I have a more pressing job on the bicycle-fettling front, which is making up a few sets of Mk 2 bullbars; the 90 deg. bend is brazed and so its an abrupt square bend, so the handgrips are shorter reach than in the original bullbars; https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=113772&hilit=bullbars...this is because the Longitude is longer in the top tube than all my existing bikes, one of which is getting a bit long for me now. (Its me that's changing, rather than the bike...I should say i'm getting a bit stiff for the bike!)
Just been looking at rims, I almost just went for Sputniks, but I think Andra 321 will do nicely.
I have a black XT front hub from before they went silly and made them with alloy axles, and a rather old XT chainset which will get pressed into service.
BB7 MTB brakes and "Vee brake crosstop levers"...being the nearest I can get to "reverse" levers with MTB pull.https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-levers/tektro-rl740-top-mount-v-brake-lever-240mm-clamp/

[531colin]

0.8mm or 1.0mm stainless sheet with a folded bend in it might do to make a suitable 'ramp', and can fit between the disc caliper mount and the frame if there is enough clearance?

cheers

sounds like a plan!

[slowster]

It's a pity the exits of the bolt holes for attaching the caliper to the adapter are not square. If they were, you could presumably use a couple of extra long bolts to mount the caliper, which would protrude below the bolt holes, and then secure a suitably shaped piece of sheet metal to the protruding bolt threads with a couple of nuts.

I'm looking forward to seeing the build progress. Seeing the various issues and wrinkles encountered in putting together a bike like this, and the choices between different solutions and options, is so much more interesting than the usual run of the mill road bikes or MTBs fitted with a complete Shimano groupset.

[531colin]

It's a pity the exits of the bolt holes for attaching the caliper to the adapter are not square. If they were, you could presumably use a couple of extra long bolts to mount the caliper, which would protrude below the bolt holes, and then secure a suitably shaped piece of sheet metal to the protruding bolt threads with a couple of nuts......

The bottom of the adapter isn't flat, as you say, however all that's needed is a couple of extra-long bolts and 4 nuts to attach a bit of ali. strip at an appropriate angle...or even a bit of ali. angle so the reaction arm runs between the dropout and the ali. angle?
Keep 'em coming!