Cycling UK Forum

I have a new (to me) Dawes Super Galaxy.

I am thinking of replacing the drops with butterfly handlebars and possibly the stem in order to give me a (physio-recommended) more upright riding position. I'd then need to replace the bar-end gear shifters.

I have seen a 2008 thread here with pics of a Dawes after a similar process.

I have no idea where to start researching/sourcing possible parts. I have a butterfly handlebar in the shed.

Could anyone give me an idiots' guide to this?

Thanks in advance,

Jeff

You’ll need to provide more info about the front and rear derailleurs, how many sprockets there are on the back wheel, and how many chainrings on the chainset. This will inform which gear shifters are suitable. It’s possible that your current stem will be incompatible with the butterfly bars you have in the shed. Photos of everything will help a lot.

Yes agree, need photos of your gears on back and front to make sure you get the right gear levers, also your brakes to make sure you end up with the right brake levers for them. Your stem/headset area to give you advice about what's gonna be compatible. You will most likely need a new stem as road bar clamp is usually a different size to non-drop bar, unless it's a pretty modern type. Also I take it you'll want to raise the bars quite a bit anyway.

gregoryoftours wrote:Yes agree, need photos of your gears on back, also your brakes to make sure you end up with the right levers for them. Your stem/headset area to give you advice about what's gonna be compatible.

Yep, forgot about brakes!

Overall, keeping the drop bars but doing something with the stem (stem extender, high-rise replacement stem etc) to significantly raise them, will likely be much easier and cheaper.

ElCani wrote:

gregoryoftours wrote:Yes agree, need photos of your gears on back, also your brakes to make sure you end up with the right levers for them. Your stem/headset area to give you advice about what's gonna be compatible.

Yep, forgot about brakes!

Overall, keeping the drop bars but doing something with the stem (stem extender, high-rise replacement stem etc) to significantly raise them, will likely be much easier and cheaper.

Yep it depends what type of stem/bar you have on your bike now. it would be a lot easier to give advice if you post a photo even of just the stem on your bike. Eg if it's a quill one with enclosed clamp and you kept your drop bars you'd still have to buy a road stem with a long stalk, undo your bar tape and levers to change the stem. Then re-cable longer to accommodate the height. All perfectly doable but with quite a lot of variables. Some super galaxies also come with a type of height adjustable sliding stem adjustment.

Personally I would look at contacting your local recycle/repair bike charity. They should have a wide range of good quality second hand parts as well as expertise. Changing handles bars, and controls can work out quite expensive if you use new parts, and it may be frustrating if, when the work to swap the handlebars over is completed, the results aren't as good as expected. If you use second hand parts you can always replace with new when you're happy with the results

..the first issue is the diameter of the handle bars - most modern drop bars have a diameter of 26mm and I suspect that your butterfly bars have a diameter of 25.4mm at the centre and 22mm for the controls....
This will mean swapping the stem, and the controls. I suspect you'll need some cantilever brakes for flat handlebars to operate the brakes (mostly any second hand brake levers from the 80's and you can still get them new). Gear controls are slightly different - you said that they were on the end of the handlebars? if so, that means God loves you, and all you have to do is find a new way of mounting them on the handlebars- can you supply a photo of your handlebars showing the gear shifters?

The other thing to consider is your saddle- if you're going to be sat more upright they'll be more of your body weight supported through your saddle and you may need a wider or more padded saddle. Again at this point its always worth making friends with your local charity which recycles bicycles - finding the right saddle can take more than several attempts - which can be expensive if you're purchasing them new...

Thank you all very much for your replies.

Apologies that I have not replied sooner - I have notifications on but it didn't for some reason.

The answers are very helpful and I shall use them to finesse my appeal for help, with photos and more info.

Thanks again,

Jeff

I have just had a similar post on the E bike page . You will need to fit a longer stem so the bars ends are level with the steerer tube. I suggest a 110-120mm adjustable stem. You can adjust length and height for the best position.

If you have to change and refit that many different parts,
it might be easier to sell on the frame and find one that fits.
I'd did that with my tourer, the parts stayed the same,
frame changed 3 times.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/jtek-special-thumb-shifter-brackets-for-222-mm-bars-black/
Those may strike you as expensive for a couple of relatively simple bits of metal; however, if you use them to mount your existing bar end levers onto your new butterfly bars, life suddenly gets simple; because your existing left shift is NOT indexed, you can use the lever to operate any double or triple MTB or road front mech. All that remains is to sort out brake levers with the right cable pull (ie V brake or canti.) and an appropriate stem.
Long thread here about DIY mounts...https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=57027&hilit=skinflints&start=105

Re. your "physio recommended" more upright position.....a conventional riding position for a touring/recreational cyclist looks like this

foot level on bottom pedal by 531colin, on Flickr

Back and arms roughly at 45 degrees to the horizontal; bars and saddle roughly level; slight bend in arms when relaxed.
Positioned like this on a bumpy road I can let the bike move underneath me like a rocking horse; on a rough track I can "pay out" with my arms to let the front wheel drop into a hole, then lift it out again, and un-weight the back wheel as it first drops into and then climbs out of the hole.
If you sit upright on the saddle (or just sit on the saddle like a sack of spuds) a big bump can fire you up in the air, and any small bumps jar straight up your back. Lots of people then go looking for suspension seatposts, which I have found neither necessary or desirable.

Hello There,
You've mentioned that the reason for the change in handlebars was due to a physio recommendation- before we get too far on talking about riding positions is there anything you feel that we should know?

cycle tramp wrote:Hello There,
You've mentioned that the reason for the change in handlebars was due to a physio recommendation- before we get too far on talking about riding positions is there anything you feel that we should know?

My thoughts were "Does the physio ride a bike?"

Hi all,

Thanks again for the later replies. Again, I'm afraid I didn't get any notifications.

Two NHS physios (one of whom is particularly interested in bikes and backs) and a bike-riding osteopath have all suggested a more upright stance is possibly better for me.

My experience with riding my usual Brompton and the Super Galaxy bear this out, but I would be very happy if eventually I am able to ride with comfort in a normal riding position.

Causes of the back pain?
I wish I knew.
35+ years' escoliosis, not enough (no) stretching for years, flat feet, being 60 ...

I shall be back, with details of my current set up.

Thanks again,

Jeff