Shimano wheel bearings

[Sum]

I usually remove the disc rotor whilst servicing the wheel hub, but then I have centre lock rotors so it's not so much of a faff for me.

I suppose you could get a suitable cone wrench and put a bend in it just enough to clear the disc rotor bolts. I assume this is what you meant when you said the cone wrench was interfering with the disc mount? The head of the cone wrench may too large though, and you may have to file it to fit inside the disc bolts. You could try grinding down a normal spanner if you have the tools.

Unior sell an offset cone wrench but it's actually for a headset.

[AndyB1]

Yes…..I could possibly bend a cone spanner and grind it down to fit……..but there are lots of Shimano hubs out there with 6 bolt disc mounts, so how do others do the job?

[531colin]

Just had a look at some wheels.
Mine are XT 6 bolt hubs, but even they vary. Some have rubber seals on front and rear disc side, you just pull them back to access the cone / locknut. Some rears have a metal shield with cone/locknut in plain sight; just rear with a rubber seals on front!
Re contaminated grease in a previous post; yes, even wear debris in the grease will speed up bearing wear. However, I have never worn out an XT hub, so for me at least quickly slopping in a bit of fresh grease once a year seems to be “good enough”.
If I set myself the job of cleaning it all up perfectly while keeping the left and right balls separate, then I probably wouldn’t do it !

[Brucey]

....If I set myself the job of cleaning it all up perfectly while keeping the left and right balls separate, then I probably wouldn’t do it !

there's probably no need, either. I have in mind a system that allows you to do all routine cleaning/servicing via a lube port. There would be two different fluids (let's call them 'spray A' and 'spray B') in pressurised containers. These containers would closely resemble (or, actually be, in emergencies) conventional aerosols. Like aerosols these would be designed to accept a 'straw' but unlike conventional aerosols the intention would be to refill them. Both sprays A and B would be mostly (about 75%) solvent, with the remaining 25% being oil and grease respectively.

Special nozzles (with a 'straw' fitting at one end, and a pointed, rubber-sealed fitting at the other) would deliver the fluids, without appreciable leakage or waste.

The intention would be to use 'spray A' as a cleaner, after which any residue would have a mildly lubricating/anti-rust effect. Most of the solvent in spray A would exit in a liquid state, via shields/seals, carrying with it old lubricant, dirt, and wear debris. Careful examination of the last of these is sure to betray an iffy bearing within. By contrast, it is intended that the solvent in spray B mostly evaporates, leaving behind a thin layer of nice clean grease. Normally, the part would be left overnight, in order for evaporation of solvent to be nigh-on complete and the lubricant to be fully effective. Whilst the part could be used without delay, this is not recommended, as any solvent residues will seriously impair lubricant performance.

Needless to say, this would be expected to identify (and sometimes treat) any corrosion there might be.

Note also that this method could be used to overcome any reservations folk might have about drilling lube ports without subsequent cleaning.

This whole process is intended to be as quick/easy/simple as possible, and should be no more difficult than chain maintenance, whilst being fully effective. IME things that are quick/easy are more likely to get done.