bgnukem wrote:At this time of year, wet salt will corrode pretty much any material that might be used to make a chain. If a chain was made entirely of a titanium- or nickel-base alloy, or perhaps a high chromium (22%-plus duplex grade) stainless steel, then corrosion might be resisted but the cost would be sky high and the material might not be hard / wear-resistant enough for the application.
Corrosion-resistant coatings will inevitably wear off inside the links, when subjected to abrasive road grit and when the links are penetrated by salty water they will corrode.
At the moment, after any wet commute/ride, I dry my chain thoroughly with kitchen towel and re-oil with wet lube and even then some corrosion is occurring overnight. Once a week I'm immersion cleaning the chain to remove any mud/grit and also the iron oxide itself, which is also a very effective abrasive.
I just can't see a shortcut to avoiding chain care unless the bike has a hub gear and can use a drive belt or full chain case.
this is absolutely correct and also the reason why you can't ignore lubrication; without lubrication the most important parts of the chain don't have any corrosion protection either.
IME chains which don't obviously corrode externally (which is pretty much all those 'corrosion resistant' ones on the market) merely fool you into thinking all is well within the bushings, even (or especially) when it probably isn't.
cheers