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puffin wrote:A few more.
gregoryoftours wrote:I'd definitely do it after your end to end. Your frame will be fine in the meantime. 3 months is a reasonable amount of time but you need to factor in potential supply issues and the chance for other delays, especially if you go through a separate bike shop to strip, ship and rebuild the bike. I'd also consider the possibility of potential staffing issues that could arise unexpectedly with covid.
David9694 wrote:The man at Argos Cycles said they were busy because we’re all doing our lockdown bike projects.
Brucey wrote:puffin wrote:A few more.
absolutely nothing to worry about IMHO; all surface stuff.
Treat with owatrol as suggested upthread and it'll be fine for a fair while.
FWIW the biggest concern I'd have is that the screw which attaches the mudguard to the chainstay brace might be seized.
cheers
puffin wrote:Brucey wrote:puffin wrote:A few more.
absolutely nothing to worry about IMHO; all surface stuff.
Treat with owatrol as suggested upthread and it'll be fine for a fair while.
FWIW the biggest concern I'd have is that the screw which attaches the mudguard to the chainstay brace might be seized.
cheers
Brucey thanks for the heads up, I've been out with the penatrating oil on the mudguard, and will continue to do so.
Keep safe.
Brucey wrote:Kurust is an entirely different product which works in a different way. The benefits of using owatrol and then using the bike for a while are that
a) it is very easy to do (degrease where necessary)
b) the bike won't look any worse than it does at present
c) you will easily see if the corrosion is still active or not, subsequently, because the owatrol coating is transparent.
IME none of these things is true when you use Kurust.
If the corrosion is still active despite applications of owatrol then you will have to do the whole sandpaper, kurust, paint etc schlep, where necessary. However if the corrosion is no longer active when owatrol is applied, you can use it as an undercoat and paint over the top of it.
FWIW your frame is suffering 'filiform' corrosion in places; the bad news is that there is no way to treat this once it starts, that isn't invasive, anyway. The good news is that it is very rarely any worse or more damaging than it appears to be, so it is usually sufficient to keep an eye on it. Owatrol can wick into the places where the paint has started to lift but it is not guaranteed to stifle filiform corrosion, IME.
hoppy58 wrote:As Brucey says, that’s mainly surface rust. I’d be inclined to strip the frame down, give it a damn good wash and then use t-cut and car wax polish, and with lots of clean rags buff it up to a good shine...lots of scuffs and marks will disappear. A small tin of humbrol matched as near as possible can be used to touch up the worst paint chips; and reassemble replacing any rusty bolts with new. This will make it look massively better and keep the patina of a well used bike. I’ve adopted this approach to several old rusty bikes and it’s amazing how well they come up...the touched up paint chips just fade into the background and what you see is a well looked after ‘old’ bike. You can then just maintain it in that condition as it will no doubt get chipped and scratched again in the future.
This paintwork on this Marin was marked, chipped and filthy when I got it...after giving it a once over as described above it came up really nice...
Brucey wrote:as per PM to you (which might be of interest to others)Brucey wrote:Kurust is an entirely different product which works in a different way. The benefits of using owatrol and then using the bike for a while are that
a) it is very easy to do (degrease where necessary)
b) the bike won't look any worse than it does at present
c) you will easily see if the corrosion is still active or not, subsequently, because the owatrol coating is transparent.
IME none of these things is true when you use Kurust.
If the corrosion is still active despite applications of owatrol then you will have to do the whole sandpaper, kurust, paint etc schlep, where necessary. However if the corrosion is no longer active when owatrol is applied, you can use it as an undercoat and paint over the top of it.
FWIW your frame is suffering 'filiform' corrosion in places; the bad news is that there is no way to treat this once it starts, that isn't invasive, anyway. The good news is that it is very rarely any worse or more damaging than it appears to be, so it is usually sufficient to keep an eye on it. Owatrol can wick into the places where the paint has started to lift but it is not guaranteed to stifle filiform corrosion, IME.
In addition I'd note that the one thing that may not work well is trying to put anything paint-like onto a freshly oiled surface. So in the case of your chainstay brace, I'd have applied the owatrol (or whatever) to the outside and let it dry before using penetrating oil on it, if I wanted minimal net effort.
Also 1/2 litre of owatrol is plenty; enough to coat the entire bike, several times over!
cheers
Brucey wrote:if you can post photos of anything (including non-bike items) you have treated with Owatrol I'm sure they would be of interest to others.
cheers