Drive Belt vs Chain, Rohloff Hub vs Derailler, and other questions.

[MarcusT]

That's a very nice set up. Not much more that you can ask for, except comfort. Be absolutely sure you can spend all day in the saddle for that money.
No compromises.
Cheers

[NickJP]

I don't think you need to spend £3500 - I would think that £2000 would give you a good bike, including decent rack(s) and maybe even the panniers.

I was surprised at £3,500.

Not with a Rohloff hub as part of the price. They're a bit over £1000 for the hub alone. They do last, though. I've had mine on my touring bike for almost a quarter of a century, with zero problems, and wouldn't willingly go back to touring on derailleur gears.

[PT1029]

Much as above;
Steel frame,
Wheel size, I'd say 700C with clearance for say 45mm tyres AND mud guards. ATB 26" will be good, and spares easily had almost verywhere, BUT in terms of good quality parts, 26" is on the way out, being replaced by 27.5"/650B (spares in far away places might currently be problematic as it is a relativly new size (if you exclude 1960's rural French county bicycles, but I digress). I don't know how quickly this size will become available in far away places).
Rohloff gears. Do use the flange rings. Keep you registration details.
Bottom bracket crank bearings. External Hollow Tech 2 don't last that long (poor seals). I'd suggest (but also research) Hollow Tech 2 but using Hope ceramic bearings, OR a decent sealed BB for square taper cotterless cranks (you have just - more or less - missed the boat on indistructable Shimano UN 55 units).
Disc brakes - technology has improved in recent years, rim wall thickness has got thinner, so they don't last as long as they used to (Sun rims might still be thick walled?). Cable brakes much easier if you need to work on them. Hydraulics do work very well though. Popular cable brakes:
TRP Spyre or Avid BB7's. Avid slightly better made, more fiddly to work on, TRP Spyre easier to set up/work on, and are narower in profile so are more front/rear luggage rack friendly (Avids sometime require the rack to be spaced out to fit - longer bolt, more likely to break...)
Racks, Tubus Cargo rear, Tubus Tara front (Ortleibs need a compatible lower bracker for the Tara). Very light, steel so easily repaired in the unlikely need of repair (30 year warranty if you remember your registration, 1st 3 years world wide free replacement delivered to you).
Ortleib panniers.
Dynoamo front hub - widget charging aside, some friends cycled to NZ a few years back, encountered some long unlit tunnels in mountain ranges along the way - "horrible" was the word they used. They used theirs for charging as well (+ at cafes/camp sites etc).
For none dynamo charging, see viewtopic.php?p=1585796#p1585796
Handle bars, drops/flats/butterfly. Try to made you mind up defore the big spend if you can. Mechanically for an expedition tourer, drops are a faff compared to flats/butterfly bars should you have to do any cable work (routeing under bar tape etc). Drops you can get inline top mount brake levers, so you can brake from the tops, as well as the drops. Flats/butterfly bars the brake cables just slot in through the front slit of the levers, easy peasy. I am (still) pondering a new bike, having said that, I'd go for drops or 2 reasons,
1. I am mechanically competent.
2. On flats/butterfly bars, on long decents to have the brake levers covered, you need to decend in the up seating position, which often just feels so wrong (unless you are wanting air braking of course).
On drop bars, there is nothing quite like decending hands on the brake hoods fingers on the brake levers.
I have flats/butterfly and dropped bars, I am always reminded of this point when decending on the flats/butterfly bars.
Good personal mechanical knowledge to adjust/repair your bike. Consider a maintenance course if you are lacking in this.

As well as Oxford Bike Works, Stanforth might be worth a look.
If you are able to try a bike laden/unladen, it might help. I had a frame built years ago, hated the handling (steering) but loved my hack bike steering. Replaced the forks with the same geomerty as my hack bike (extra 1/2" in the fork rake) and the bike handles superbly, and it now handles better when loaded.

[simonhill]

I don't think you need to spend £3500 - I would think that £2000 would give you a good bike, including decent rack(s) and maybe even the panniers.

I was surprised at £3,500.

Not with a Rohloff hub as part of the price. They're a bit over £1000 for the hub alone. They do last, though. I've had mine on my touring bike for almost a quarter of a century, with zero problems, and wouldn't willingly go back to touring on derailleur gears.

If you read my full post you would see I brought the Rohloff into the equation. I was saying money not spent on the bike is money for on the road. No idea of the OPs budget, but the spec is currently rising along with the price.

Sometimes too much thinking about the bike (19 months in this case) and not enough on the road.

Just a further thought. Have Spa got any LHTs left. They could build something similar to the Oxford for much less. The Oxford is pretty similar to my LHTs.

Finally, are all those Oxford components still available? 8 speed rear Deore, Sputniks, etc.

[PT1029]

If you see the right bike (for you) going used, they can be a good buy.
Quite often used bikes with Rohloff gears seem to go for approx the cost of a new Rohloff hub which makes a saving. I expect the Thorn owners forum gets some for sale (? - I don't look at that forum). Also a used Rohloff hub would probably be nicely run in (as so quieter!).

[Bonefishblues]

I was surprised at £3,500.

Not with a Rohloff hub as part of the price. They're a bit over £1000 for the hub alone. They do last, though. I've had mine on my touring bike for almost a quarter of a century, with zero problems, and wouldn't willingly go back to touring on derailleur gears.

If you read my full post you would see I brought the Rohloff into the equation. I was saying money not spent on the bike is money for on the road. No idea of the OPs budget, but the spec is currently rising along with the price.

Sometimes too much thinking about the bike (19 months in this case) and not enough on the road.

Just a further thought. Have Spa got any LHTs left. They could build something similar to the Oxford for much less. The Oxford is pretty similar to my LHTs.

Finally, are all those Oxford components still available? 8 speed rear Deore, Sputniks, etc.

I was slightly surprised at the size of the 'disc premium' on the OBW bike

[PH]

The question was money no object, Round the World tourer, so I'd choose the current Thorn Nomad, Rohloff & SON hubs, V brake front, disc rear, dynamo lights and USB charging, flat bars with Ergon grips, Tubus racks, Ortlieb luggage. It'll be a chunk over three grand.
The Nomad frame can, in the unlikely event of a Rohloff problem, accommodate any other gearing system and can be used with belt, though that isn't something I'd choose. Thorn also warranty the hub shell of their own Rohloff builds (The most common failure) well beyond what the manufacturers do, ten years instead of two. Their reputation for customer service is better than most, emails and phone calls get a speedy response and they've been known to send parts to those on tour quickly. They are the most opinionated bike supplier I've dealt with, I don't mind that, some do, I don't think they're always right, but they were heavily promoting Rohloffs before anyone else in the UK.
I've got a couple of Rohloffs (OK, three ) the oldest is in it's third bike, 18 years old, at least 90,000 miles, had two broken flanges (Replaced FOC by Thorn though out of warranty) and is still running well, they are expensive to buy (Though also hold their value well) but very cheap to run.

That was the question, money no object, if you'd been asking what bike you needed, it would be a completely different answer. Or if you'd asked as a new tourer what you should buy, a different answer again. You're the only person who can know what the perfect bike is, and the only way to get there is with experience. In your position I wouldn't be thinking about the bike to use in a couple of years, but what to use to get touring, the answer to that is pretty much any bike.

[geocycle]

If I were setting off around the world it would be on a Thorn nomad with a rohloff, set up pretty much as PH describes. The mk3 frame seems to be the most flexible as it can take 26" 650b and 700C wheels. I'd favour a chain over a belt for ease of replacing if anything went wrong. My rohloff has done the equivalent of twice round the world over 14 years in a thorn raven. It's had an annual oil change and been fitted with the splined sprocket but otherwise has been zero problem. After the trip the bike will be showing its age and its resale value will have plummeted, however the rohloff is the exception and you would get most of its purchase price back. Fourteen years ago my Thorn Raven was £1100, it has had a lot of upgrades but I'd still be wanting something similar to that if I ever sold it on.

[doodah]

Hi BikeBuddha,

If you wish, you are welcome to test cycle my Thorn Raven fully loaded / unloaded for a day's cycling.
At least this will give a personal informed opinion of the pros and cons previously mentioned by the members.
We can load the panniers with my gear and top up with yours or use yours exclusively - it matters not.
The spec is as follows and may also help you to decide whether a visit is worthwhile - no offence taken if rejected.

Thorn Raven with Rohloff hub.
Andra CSS rims on Schwalbe Dureme tyres
Son 28 dynamo with Cinq5 charger
B&M lights Edelux front and Toplight rear
Shimano double sided pedals and Shimano Deore XT brakes
Ergon GP3 Biocork grips and Brooks B17 saddle
Tubus Logo Classic rear rack Tubus Tara front rack
All panniers Ortlieb Classic Roller top and Ortlieb rack pack and handlebar bag

The bike is a dream to ride laden and a bit of a carthorse unladen. However, I rather think one would get used to the 'carthorse effect' if riding it exclusively. I use my Thorn Raven Sport as my runabout and do think it is the best bike I have ever owned - bar none - but not good enough for a RTW expedition.

I have attached a link for your perusal. download/file.php?id=79113&mode=view

Once again, the offer is there and absolutely no offence if not taken up. Feel free to PM me for any further info if required.
All the best in selecting your steed. It is important that you get this right. You must consider the facts and not opinions. There have been some great points raised here.

As Dirty Harry said "Opinions are like assholes - everybody has one." Very true

Doodah

[djb]

I am brand new to touring and am thinking of going around the world by bike

What is your actual real budget for a bike, unless you actually really mean cost is not a factor?
Take into account also the costs of good quality gear for such a long trip, which will add up also.

I ask just to direct the discussion along a more realistic direction cost/budget wise--I mean it's fun to dream and all, but at some point being realistic about budget is good too.

[willem jongman]

I would suggest you buy an decent second hand bike for a few hundred pounds, and some Decathlon camping gear if you do not have any. Use this to make some longer trips this year, to discover if you like it, what you like about it and what not, and what is your taste in bikes and gear.

[simonhill]

Naughty, naughty. You'll get told off for not advising regardless of price.

Not sure what the OPs plans are now. Many of the things mentioned/questioned above were discussed a while ago viewtopic.php?f=16&t=132061

[willem jongman]

And once you know what you like, why not spend big on a custom bike with a finely crafted made to measure frame? It is what I did a decade ago, and I have never regretted it. But this was after decades of cycle touring. In my case, a custom m-gineering steel frame, 26 inch wheel size and clearance for wide tyres, chain drive, Rohloff and SON hubs, Nitto drop bar, Magura HS66 hydraulic rim brakes, TA cranks, etc. It was not cheap, but not more expensive than premium off the peg brands in the Netherlands, and far more elegant. I bought it as my last loaded tourer, and I am sure that is what it will be. My only remaining bike wish is a fast lightweight custom derailleur bike for spirited local rides, perhaps audax, and credit card tours. I am saving for one, but it will not be cheap either.

[BikeBuddha]

And once you know what you like, why not spend big on a custom bike with a finely crafted made to measure frame? It is what I did a decade ago, and I have never regretted it. But this was after decades of cycle touring. In my case, a custom m-gineering steel frame, 26 inch wheel size and clearance for wide tyres, chain drive, Rohloff and SON hubs, Nitto drop bar, Magura HS66 hydraulic rim brakes, TA cranks, etc. It was not cheap, but not more expensive than premium off the peg brands in the Netherlands, and far more elegant. I bought it as my last loaded tourer, and I am sure that is what it will be. My only remaining bike wish is a fast lightweight custom derailleur bike for spirited local rides, perhaps audax, and credit card tours. I am saving for one, but it will not be cheap either.

That sounds wonderful.... I am 50, and running short of time..... and am thinking of just working my way around the world, working on wwoofing and work away...

Where did you get the custom build?

I'm looking at £3600 for expedition bike with rohloff hub, handbuilt wheels, SON hubs (thats the dynamo, isn't it?), USB charger, ortileb panniers and bar bag... and the following specs (This is the derailler model, so ignore some of the derailler stuff)


Frame: Oxford Bike Works 26” cromoly touring/expedition frame (Reynolds 525)

Forks: Oxford Bike Works cromoly touring forks

Steering stabiliser: a modified Hebie 695

Colour: Choice of Grey (RAL 7026), Red (RAL3020) or Olive green RAL7013 (custom colours available)

Headset: Chris King NoThreadSet 1 1/8”, black

Rear Mech: Shimano Deore RD-M592, top normal, long cage, black

Front Mech: Shimano Deore FD-T6000, dual pull, low clamp, black

Cassette: Shimano CS-HG41-8sp, 11-34T, 8-speed

Shifter Levers: Microshift SL-M08, friction front, 8sp indexed/friction rear with cable adjuster

Chainset: Shimano FC-M361, 170-175mm, 22-32-42T

Bottom Bracket: Shimano BB-UN300, 68mm, English thread

Chain: KMC X8.99

Rims: Ryde Sputnik 26” (559), 36H, Schrader drilled or Andra 30 36h

Front Hub: Shimano Deore HB-T610-S, 36H

Rear Freehub: Shimano Deore FH-T610-S, 36H

Spokes: Sapim Race DB (front, rear non-driveside), Sapim Leader PG (rear driveside)

Rim Tape: Schwalbe 19mm rimtape

Skewers: 5mm Allen key non-QR

Tyres: Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tours 26x1.75” with SmartGuard

Innertubes: Schwalbe AV12, 26”, Schrader valve

Brake Levers: Shimano BL-R2000, black

Brake Calipers: Shimano Deore BR-T610-L, black

Brake Shoes: Shimano S70C with cartridge shoe inserts (re-order code Y-8A2 98030)

Pedals: MKS MT-Lite pedals (Shimano PD-M324, combination SPD/flat available as upgrade)

Saddle: Brooks B17 Brown or Terry Fisio Gel (Man or Woman)

Seatpost: Ergotec 5 Black 350mm 27.2mm diameter

Handlebars: Ergotec 57-63cm

Stem: Ergotec 60 - 130mm

Grips: Ergon GP5

Bar-Ends: Ergon GP5

Rear Carrier Rack: Tubus Logo

Front Lowrider: Tubus Tara

Mudguards: SKS Black, 26x1.5-2.2”,

Extras: Marine-grade stainless steel bolt replacements, , OBW steerer-tube bell, spares package

[willem jongman]

Mine was built by m-gineering in the Netherlands. It is different from the bike that you mention in quite a few ways. I am happy to comment in detail, but not now. But please, get yourself a decent second hand one first, and go on holiday with it in Europe for one or two years.