Cycling UK Forum

I need to fit a new headset for this old bike.

I have removed the old headset, cups and crown race. I have ordered a new one (made of steel, which I think are likely to be less problematic on a cheap bike with so-so tolerances).

It is a 1 inch headset.

I am happy banging in the steel cups with a wooden mallet, but any thoughts on fitting the crown race?

If I use plumbers plastic piping, any idea of the size for going over a one-inch steerer?

(My old headset - bit of a gash mixture of old Raleigh steel and Miche aluminium has just been insanely over-tightened and ruined by someone who really hadn't a clue in the local bike shop. Suppose the young lad only does threadless these days Now completely impossible to tighten the headset properly.)

Make sure you get the correct size. Measure the one you remove to check if it's an ISO 26.4mm or jis 27.0mm you need.
I use a steel tube to knock mine on.
Be aware that older raleigh bikes had a propriety size of fork threading as listed in Sheldon Browns crib sheet here. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html

I take it you don't have a crown-race fitting tool? Mine has a sleeve and does both sizes.

A bit of care and you will get it to seat properly with just a hammer and a softish drift. Just go all the way round gently. Takes a bit more finesse that using a tool but nothing special. I even used a block of wood once with a inch hole in it to avoid tapping the race but decied that a brass punch was easier.

Er, something around the 1” mark?
Not sure this would be strong enough if you meet resistance. Some crown races slide on by hand.

Heat up the crown race in the oven before fitting to expand it.

I always put the cups in the freezer to help them go in the head tube.

mattsccm wrote: ↑9 Jun 2021, 8:53pm A bit of care and you will get it to seat properly with just a hammer and a softish drift. Just go all the way round gently. Takes a bit more finesse that using a tool but nothing special. I even used a block of wood once with a inch hole in it to avoid tapping the race but decided that a brass punch was easier.

I bought a Neco steel headset off ebay, which is good.

To fit the crown race, I fit front wheel and tyre to soften impact and tapped around the crown race with an old flat head screw driver and a light hammer. It took a while, but worked fine. The other races I hammered in with a wooden mallet. Then loaded up them with loose balls, discarding the bearings that came with it in clamps. Thanks Brucey.

It should last without me having to think about it for years.

PS Best grease gun I have encountered is a hypodermic syringe and blunt needle. Very handy for regreasing items such as Campag Ergopower shifters that I cleaned out with parafin.

An old bit of frame tubing, usually seat tube with the butt at the business end*, is often used as a 1" crown race setter. The proper technique is to hold the tool steady and bang the fork onto it, so it doesn't matter so much that the tubing weighs less than a proper tool. You can always rest the "tool" on the ground.

You have to cut the tube very straight at the end so, if you don't already have a tube saw guide, you might as well buy a crown race setter. Then you can do 1 1/8" races as well.

*about 27mm internal diameter

rogerzilla wrote: ↑15 Jun 2021, 9:31am An old bit of frame tubing, usually seat tube with the butt at the business end*, is often used as a 1" crown race setter. The proper technique is to hold the tool steady and bang the fork onto it, so it doesn't matter so much that the tubing weighs less than a proper tool. You can always rest the "tool" on the ground.

You have to cut the tube very straight at the end so, if you don't already have a tube saw guide, you might as well buy a crown race setter. Then you can do 1 1/8" races as well.

*about 27mm internal diameter

That's an interesting tip: so, you can just take out the seat post, insert the fork with crown race and press / knock it in?

I actually preferred the approach of tapping the inner edge of the crown race, as there is enough of it for a screw driver. But it does go slightly askew, so you need to be careful with the gentle tapping.

Nice picture!

(are the colours filtered a little? I know naff-all about photo processing - or in fact photography generally ... )

I also have nothing useful to add to this thread; but have an interest, as my commuter will need this job doing very soon :-/

Bice wrote: ↑16 Jun 2021, 10:34am

rogerzilla wrote: ↑15 Jun 2021, 9:31am An old bit of frame tubing, usually seat tube with the butt at the business end*, is often used as a 1" crown race setter. The proper technique is to hold the tool steady and bang the fork onto it, so it doesn't matter so much that the tubing weighs less than a proper tool. You can always rest the "tool" on the ground.

You have to cut the tube very straight at the end so, if you don't already have a tube saw guide, you might as well buy a crown race setter. Then you can do 1 1/8" races as well.

*about 27mm internal diameter

That's an interesting tip: so, you can just take out the seat post, insert the fork with crown race and press / knock it in?

I actually preferred the approach of tapping the inner edge of the crown race, as there is enough of it for a screw driver. But it does go slightly askew, so you need to be careful with the gentle tapping.

Seat TUBE! It involves cutting up a scrap frame.

rogerzilla wrote: ↑16 Jun 2021, 8:47pm Seat TUBE! It involves cutting up a scrap frame.

Only if you are a glutton for punishment ...

mattheus wrote: ↑16 Jun 2021, 2:57pm Nice picture!

(are the colours filtered a little? I know naff-all about photo processing - or in fact photography generally ... )

I also have nothing useful to add to this thread; but have an interest, as my commuter will need this job doing very soon :-/

No, straight out of a Canon MK IV. I hate the 'digital darkroom', having loved the real one.