Cycling UK Forum

Hi,

I was looking for a 12-28 or 12-30 Shimano 10 speed cassette to replace the old 5700 105 one I have l on an FH-5700 rear hub (9/10 speed).

The new one is a HG500 but unfortunately has a riveted carrier and my 1mm spacer on the free hub fouls the little rivet heads on the rear and means the shorter lock ring thread won’t engage with the hub. Can’t use the old lock ring as the keyed faces are diff diameters.

What is the preferred option here, not sure if loose larger cassette cogs are actually a good idea or not?

Thanks in advance.

Options:
1-Grind off the cassette rivets and punch them out, hope the steel freehub body is OK and not chewed

2-Find a 1mm spacer with rivet cut outs

3-Buy a 5700 or higher 10 speed road cassette and hope the last three are in an alloy carrier with no rivets

The rivets are just to hold it together the lugs on the sprockets would take up the strain long before the rivets see any load.
If they were important the end sprockets would be in trouble.

That was what I was hoping!

Main concern was the higher torque on the larger sprockets in lower gears, I had assumed they would be more likely to chew up the freehub than the smaller ones at the front which typically lock a few together with their serrations anyway.

Be a lot simpler to omit fitting the spacer surely.

Then the lock ring doesn’t tighten up against the hub properly and casette is too far inboard with a lot of play

Northern_Monkey wrote: ↑16 Aug 2021, 5:32pmMain concern was the higher torque on the larger sprockets in lower gears, I had assumed they would be more likely to chew up the freehub than the smaller ones at the front which typically lock a few together with their serrations anyway.

No problem if you have a Shimano freehub, which is steel (or Ti with Dura-Ace and XTR), but third party aluminium freehubs can become notched by individual loose cogs:

It looks as though one of these might be suitable, even though the tech doc shows this particular spacer being used in a different position.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cassettes/s ... -11e-0300/

http://www.sjscycles.com/Drawings/Shima ... ch_Doc.pdf

In my box of spacers,many have small detents in them to accomodate rivets.If it,s a plastic spacer,can you just file the spacer to accomodate the rivets?I,ve also split many cassettes by removing rivets,they,re really just a convenient way of removing and replacing a cassette.Also,splitting the cassette makes cleaning easier and more thorough.

@NickJP - Cool, it is a steel one.

@cyclop - Not plastic, it’s metal and there wouldn’t be enough material left if I filed it out.

@slowster - Good call on the cut out spacers, did a quick search and the Halo ones seem to be perfect for it.

I’ve always changed the cassette for a heavier?? but one designed for me. You could start with a larger, small sprocket, unless you pedal slowly and get a full set of 10 useable sprockets. Plus only certain sprockets will wear out so the rest can adapt any new cassette to your new strength or otherwise.
BBB or Ambrosio are the cassettes I choose, depends what is cheaper.
Steel cassette body required, as stated.

KM2 wrote: ↑17 Aug 2021, 9:44am You could start with a larger, small sprocket, unless you pedal slowly and get a full set of 10 useable sprockets. Plus only certain sprockets will wear out so the rest can adapt any new cassette to your new strength or otherwise.

Thanks for the suggestion, max size small sprocket is 12 for me to get enough resistance on my fluid turbo.

Not that old, just turned 37, but preferred a 12-25 range when I was younger and doing a lot more cycling as I found it gave tighter groupings with a triple to get the right cadence.

Found a 27-28 top end more forgiving on the hills since I’ve been fitting in a lot of rock climbing and less cycling. Still use the full range of the cassette, most wear is on the middle six though.