3rd hand

[nez]

Seems there are different opinions on here as to the Third Hand tool. I do have one and thought it would be the answer to my prayers but it never really worked out that way for me (unlike the amazing Fourth Hand tool). I might give it another try.

I hadn’t imagined it would be controversial. Still the last couple of years have taught us to expect the unexpected.

[robgul]

. . . . nobody has mentioned the thick elastic band trick for toeing in the brake blocks . . .

[peetee]

When I was fitting cables frequently I always used a fourth hand,

I had one of these and couldn’t get the hang of it. Not such a problem for road calipers but would be great for cantilevers, I’m sure.

[Syd]

My thoughts on seeing the title was things that have had two previous owners

[Mick F]

. . . . nobody has mentioned the thick elastic band trick for toeing in the brake blocks . . .

In all my years and many many tens of thousands of miles on various bikes, I have never ever even considered toeing in (or out) a brake block or ever felt the need to either.

[jb]

. . . . nobody has mentioned the thick elastic band trick for toeing in the brake blocks . . .

In all my years and many many tens of thousands of miles on various bikes, I have never ever even considered toeing in (or out) a brake block or ever felt the need to either.

How many cantilever or v brakes have you owned? It's just that normal caliper brakes don't have the same problem.

[Mick F]

Only calliper owned, though maintained V brake bikes and cantilever brake bikes for many folk over the years.
Never ever ever EVER needed to toe a brake block.

The way I see it, if you did, it would only be a hundred(?) miles and the brakes would have worn parallel again.
Pointless IMHO.

I've been banging the drum about this on this forum for years.

[jb]

Well the reason for it is that the pivots can have slack so when they are applied with 'toe in' the slack makes them parallel.
But I tend to agree if you only put them on lightly for coasting then the toe in wears off.

[Mick F]

That could be the issue then.
Living where we do, you're either pedalling up a hill or coasting down the other side. Rare are the flat bits.
Lots of drag-braking for downhill corners.

[Jdsk]

. . . . nobody has mentioned the thick elastic band trick for toeing in the brake blocks . . .

I only came across that recently. Often works well.

Jonathan

[keyboardmonkey]

IMHO modern caliper brakes have no real need for a third hand tool - still less for a fourth hand tool.

I keep mine for the cantis on my 80s tourer.

I appreciate the need for good tools of which I have a use for, however in my life I never had nor needed one of these, nor did any of the old mechanics or indeed Sean Kelly 's guy who sold me most of his kit when he retired..I grabbed the blocks usually from under the wheels ensured the cable was in its holder in the caliper pulled the cable as hard as I could tightened the allen bolt or 9mm nut just so, stroked the lever lightly, pulled some cable and retightened..always worked for me, I can understand that chaps who aren't doing or ever did physical work with their hands don't or wouldn't have the grip that mechanics develop over many years and many thousand cables and brake work..no diss intended.. will

That’s great for most of my bikes too - although if I was getting paid to replace cables every day I could probably justify the price tag of a fourth hand tool; as I’m not I can’t - but for my cantis I want a spanner - 8mm & 9mm - in front and behind when I’m nipping up the straddle wire. That’s when the third hand tool comes in to its own.

(FWIW I toe in my DP brakes using the elastic band/strip of inner tube on the trailing edge of the brake shoe method.)

[Mike_Ayling]

Toe straps work well to hold the brake shoes against the rim. Not always successful if mudguards get in the way. But the postie's elastic bands can work just as well, unless you have shallow button headed Allen bolts on your brake shoes.

Also a length of double sided hook and loop tape.