Transporting bikes advice for day rides
Transporting bikes advice for day rides
I do cycle to work and around my city, but the one thing holding me back from cycling more out in the countryside is the inability to transport my bike to places I want to ride (and I'm not fit enough or have the desire to start cycling from home to further out places).
If I go out with my partner (only occasionally) then we do use a rear mounted cycle carrier, which works but is a lot of hassle setting it up (and we can't leave it on as it doesn't fit in the garage). But when I want to go out cycling somewhere myself, or meet a friend there, I can't manage the rack myself with one person (well I possibly could but it would take even longer and so not worth it).
I've tried fitting the bike inside our large car with seats down and passengers pushed forward, but it still doesn't fit in properly, and is a royal pain in the backside even to try as it keeps getting stuck on seats etc.
My only thoughts now are to try fitting the bike inside with the front wheel removed. I would always have tried that but having disc brakes, it means I lose the alignment when I put the wheel back on, so the front brake won't work properly, and I'm not a bike savvy person. Or is there a knack to doing it and it's not actually that difficult?
Only other option is to take the bike on a train, but that's always seemed like a fair bit of hassle to me and not worth it unless going longer distances- though I would like to try it sometime in future. Do all train companies offer bike spaces? But I imagine there's a fair bit of extra cost too?
If I go out with my partner (only occasionally) then we do use a rear mounted cycle carrier, which works but is a lot of hassle setting it up (and we can't leave it on as it doesn't fit in the garage). But when I want to go out cycling somewhere myself, or meet a friend there, I can't manage the rack myself with one person (well I possibly could but it would take even longer and so not worth it).
I've tried fitting the bike inside our large car with seats down and passengers pushed forward, but it still doesn't fit in properly, and is a royal pain in the backside even to try as it keeps getting stuck on seats etc.
My only thoughts now are to try fitting the bike inside with the front wheel removed. I would always have tried that but having disc brakes, it means I lose the alignment when I put the wheel back on, so the front brake won't work properly, and I'm not a bike savvy person. Or is there a knack to doing it and it's not actually that difficult?
Only other option is to take the bike on a train, but that's always seemed like a fair bit of hassle to me and not worth it unless going longer distances- though I would like to try it sometime in future. Do all train companies offer bike spaces? But I imagine there's a fair bit of extra cost too?
Re: Transporting bikes advice for day rides
There's a lot in the archives on bikes on trains, including mine from today:swfcdan wrote: ↑7 May 2022, 6:41pmOnly other option is to take the bike on a train, but that's always seemed like a fair bit of hassle to me and not worth it unless going longer distances- though I would like to try it sometime in future. Do all train companies offer bike spaces? But I imagine there's a fair bit of extra cost too?
viewtopic.php?t=145926
It's... variable.
Jonathan
Last edited by Jdsk on 7 May 2022, 6:47pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Transporting bikes advice for day rides
We use Pendle vertical bars on a towbar fitting. Quick to install and remove, fit in the boot, and a very low lift.swfcdan wrote: ↑7 May 2022, 6:41pmIf I go out with my partner (only occasionally) then we do use a rear mounted cycle carrier, which works but is a lot of hassle setting it up (and we can't leave it on as it doesn't fit in the garage). But when I want to go out cycling somewhere myself, or meet a friend there, I can't manage the rack myself with one person (well I possibly could but it would take even longer and so not worth it).
https://pbr.co.uk/products/hang-on-towbar-rack
Jonathan
Last edited by Jdsk on 7 May 2022, 6:48pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Joined: 26 Mar 2022, 7:13am
Re: Transporting bikes advice for day rides
Where you live is a really important factor, because train companies vary from really accommodating (Thameslink, for instance), through pretty accommodating (SWT and LNW) to those that seem to make it as hard as possible (GWR would be my nomination for that).
Part of the issue is that some of their trains have better bike space than others, but attitude is a major component.
Part of the issue is that some of their trains have better bike space than others, but attitude is a major component.
- chris_suffolk
- Posts: 738
- Joined: 18 Oct 2012, 10:01pm
Re: Transporting bikes advice for day rides
Never had a problem with discs and needing realigning. When I take the wheel out, I put the spacer in that originally came with the calipers (stops movement if the brake lever is accidentally pressed), and then just fit the wheel again at the other end - never been an issue.
Re: Transporting bikes advice for day rides
Something is wrong if removing/refitting your front wheel stops the brake from working. If you remove and refit the wheel, the brake should be working exactly the same as it was. It's a good idea to fit a disc brake spacer while the wheel is off, in case you accidentally pull the brake lever, but they only cost a few pence if you don't have one.swfcdan wrote: ↑7 May 2022, 6:41pm I do cycle to work and around my city, but the one thing holding me back from cycling more out in the countryside is the inability to transport my bike to places I want to ride (and I'm not fit enough or have the desire to start cycling from home to further out places).
If I go out with my partner (only occasionally) then we do use a rear mounted cycle carrier, which works but is a lot of hassle setting it up (and we can't leave it on as it doesn't fit in the garage). But when I want to go out cycling somewhere myself, or meet a friend there, I can't manage the rack myself with one person (well I possibly could but it would take even longer and so not worth it).
I've tried fitting the bike inside our large car with seats down and passengers pushed forward, but it still doesn't fit in properly, and is a royal pain in the backside even to try as it keeps getting stuck on seats etc.
My only thoughts now are to try fitting the bike inside with the front wheel removed. I would always have tried that but having disc brakes, it means I lose the alignment when I put the wheel back on, so the front brake won't work properly, and I'm not a bike savvy person. Or is there a knack to doing it and it's not actually that difficult?
Only other option is to take the bike on a train, but that's always seemed like a fair bit of hassle to me and not worth it unless going longer distances- though I would like to try it sometime in future. Do all train companies offer bike spaces? But I imagine there's a fair bit of extra cost too?
Re: Transporting bikes advice for day rides
Same (with mechanical disks) but no spacer. Just remove the front wheel, in the back of a hatchback (VW Polo) and no problems.chris_suffolk wrote: ↑7 May 2022, 7:13pm Never had a problem with discs and needing realigning. When I take the wheel out, I put the spacer in that originally came with the calipers (stops movement if the brake lever is accidentally pressed), and then just fit the wheel again at the other end - never been an issue.
Ian
Re: Transporting bikes advice for day rides
I used to use back of car but with dogs I ended-up getting a roof-rack bike carrier. Mine is https://www.thule.com/en-gb/bike-rack/r ... e-_-598002.
(There are other variants, link above is to the version I got).
Easy and quick to load and unload bike single handed. No dismantling.
I leave the roof rack and bike carrier on the car the whole time. Not cheap (given you need the carrier as well as a roof rack/bars but easy and effective.
Ian
(There are other variants, link above is to the version I got).
Easy and quick to load and unload bike single handed. No dismantling.
I leave the roof rack and bike carrier on the car the whole time. Not cheap (given you need the carrier as well as a roof rack/bars but easy and effective.
Ian
- Traction_man
- Posts: 327
- Joined: 10 Jan 2020, 5:30pm
- Location: Bangor NI
Re: Transporting bikes advice for day rides
I too have a roof rack, on a VW Passat estate, again Thule (https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-r ... 75680.html)--very impressed with it so far.
I did use a Saris Bones (https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-r ... 31451.html) 3-bike rear rack on my Mazda 3 saloon, but it never felt great while driving, I used to get a bit concerned seeing in the rear view mirror the bikes bouncing on the rack over bumps, and so I always kept the speed well down, a nuisance on the motorway, and of course the other issue with this type is obscuring the rear reg plate.
What I do though most of the time is put the bike in the Passat, with the rear seats folded, though this only works if it is just me and the bike
But you're right, so many more interesting places I can cycle now.
all the best,
Keith
I did use a Saris Bones (https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-r ... 31451.html) 3-bike rear rack on my Mazda 3 saloon, but it never felt great while driving, I used to get a bit concerned seeing in the rear view mirror the bikes bouncing on the rack over bumps, and so I always kept the speed well down, a nuisance on the motorway, and of course the other issue with this type is obscuring the rear reg plate.
What I do though most of the time is put the bike in the Passat, with the rear seats folded, though this only works if it is just me and the bike
But you're right, so many more interesting places I can cycle now.
all the best,
Keith
Re: Transporting bikes advice for day rides
I can easily fit my 58cm mudguard fitted road bike into the elderly supermini size hatchback I own! Obviously rear seats down with parcel shelf stowed behind the front seats. The front wheel needs to be removed as well. I can imagine fitment issues if the front wheel were not removed though.
Re: Transporting bikes advice for day rides
Several things.
External racks that hang off the back take 2 minutes to chuck on. Allright you may need to consider lights if you obscure the cars but thats a different issue.
Brakes. Worry over nothing. They just slot straight in. Job done. Either invert the bike or hold the wheel and lower it on. Even easier is to fit it suspended but you probably need to release and tighten quick releases with weight on the wheel afterwards.
Inside gets a otuch fiddly if you have mudgaurds but even if it doubled the loading time I doubt a minute is excessive..
External racks that hang off the back take 2 minutes to chuck on. Allright you may need to consider lights if you obscure the cars but thats a different issue.
Brakes. Worry over nothing. They just slot straight in. Job done. Either invert the bike or hold the wheel and lower it on. Even easier is to fit it suspended but you probably need to release and tighten quick releases with weight on the wheel afterwards.
Inside gets a otuch fiddly if you have mudgaurds but even if it doubled the loading time I doubt a minute is excessive..
Re: Transporting bikes advice for day rides
Yours must be bigger inside than our Punto-based Alfa. Both wheels out, else it doesn't seem to fit... unless there is some magic alignment that I've not discovered but it certainly feels like I've tried them all!Pneumant wrote: ↑7 May 2022, 8:49pm I can easily fit my 58cm mudguard fitted road bike into the elderly supermini size hatchback I own! Obviously rear seats down with parcel shelf stowed behind the front seats. The front wheel needs to be removed as well. I can imagine fitment issues if the front wheel were not removed though.
MJR, mostly pedalling 3-speed roadsters. KL+West Norfolk BUG incl social easy rides http://www.klwnbug.co.uk
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Re: Transporting bikes advice for day rides
Re rubbing brake issue. There is only 1 correct position to fit the wheel, that is with the wheel fully in the dropouts. If your brake rubs, the wheel wasn't fully in the dropout on one and/or both sides (either before and/or after refitting the wheel).
With the bike upright/vertical, loosen the wheel QR, push down on the handlebars* to ensure the wheel is fully in, then secure the QR. If the brake rubs, readjust the brake so it doesn't rub. The brake is now adjusted for the wheel fitted in the correct position.
* A lot of newer bikes with front discs have a forward facing horizontal dropout, if you have one of these, loosen the QR and push the wheel backwards.
If you have vertical dropouts, it is important to ensure the QR is TIGHT. A front disc brake with vertical dropouts tries to eject the wheel when the brake is applied. If the QR is not tight enough, the LH end of the axle can move downwards in the dropout when the front brake is applied. If this is happening, you can see this when the brake is applied - stand by your bike, put the front (only) brake on and push the bike hard forwards. If the QR is not tight enough you will see the top of the tyre (at forks) move to the left.
RE putting a spacer between the pads when you remove the wheel. This is important if you have hydraulic brakes. If the lever is applied too hard (which could be the bike resting on the lever in the back of the car) with the wheel removed, the pads may move too far and your brake fluid then leaks out.
With the bike upright/vertical, loosen the wheel QR, push down on the handlebars* to ensure the wheel is fully in, then secure the QR. If the brake rubs, readjust the brake so it doesn't rub. The brake is now adjusted for the wheel fitted in the correct position.
* A lot of newer bikes with front discs have a forward facing horizontal dropout, if you have one of these, loosen the QR and push the wheel backwards.
If you have vertical dropouts, it is important to ensure the QR is TIGHT. A front disc brake with vertical dropouts tries to eject the wheel when the brake is applied. If the QR is not tight enough, the LH end of the axle can move downwards in the dropout when the front brake is applied. If this is happening, you can see this when the brake is applied - stand by your bike, put the front (only) brake on and push the bike hard forwards. If the QR is not tight enough you will see the top of the tyre (at forks) move to the left.
RE putting a spacer between the pads when you remove the wheel. This is important if you have hydraulic brakes. If the lever is applied too hard (which could be the bike resting on the lever in the back of the car) with the wheel removed, the pads may move too far and your brake fluid then leaks out.
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Re: Transporting bikes advice for day rides
You shouldn't need to touch the discs. The caliper stays bolted to the frame/forks (you're not trying to unbolt it are you?!), the wheel just drops out and slides in again. It's sometimes worth putting a spacer in between the pads but the only time I ever bother with that is if I'm flying with the bike. Discs don't go out of alignment just from taking a wheel out and putting it in again.swfcdan wrote: ↑7 May 2022, 6:41pm My only thoughts now are to try fitting the bike inside with the front wheel removed. I would always have tried that but having disc brakes, it means I lose the alignment when I put the wheel back on, so the front brake won't work properly, and I'm not a bike savvy person. Or is there a knack to doing it and it's not actually that difficult?
Re: Transporting bikes advice for day rides
I wonder what sort of rear rack the op has. When I had a strap fitting one, it only took a few minutes to attach or detach. Quick enough for a day ride.
Maybe a cheaper, lighter, simpler rack just for his solo rides.
As to location for local trains - maybe a clue in the name - Sheffield Wednesday Football Club?
Maybe a cheaper, lighter, simpler rack just for his solo rides.
As to location for local trains - maybe a clue in the name - Sheffield Wednesday Football Club?