Rohloff

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531colin
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Re: Rohloff

Post by 531colin »

Shoogle wrote: 27 May 2022, 10:08pm Threaded axle because, according to the Rohloff manual: "Threaded axle TS - The Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 versions with a threaded axle are required for frames with horizontal dropout slots", although 531 colin has the same bike with QR.
531 colin's original post about the Rohloff went to 6 pages!
what is it they say about ignorance being bliss?
To be fair, my wheel is slammed forward to the end of the dropout, and the Q/R is pretty tight.
Now trying to work out if the disc brake is trying to move the wheel backwards or forwards..........
is it trying to move the wheel up?
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531colin
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Re: Rohloff

Post by 531colin »

If you go back to the start of "my" Longitude/Rohloff thread viewtopic.php?t=137395
....one of my first questions was whether or not the dropout slot is long enough....
see Brucey's answer, right on the money, as usual. Best wishes, mate.

.....and it was PH who first suggested a bolt in a dropout hole to anchor the reaction arm

I was completely "green" when I started that thread, and as usual the good people on this forum came up trumps; the bike all works, largely because I was "standing on the shoulders of giants"
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Shoogle
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Re: Rohloff

Post by Shoogle »

Colin, I probably will do it the same as you, except nutted instead of QR.
PH
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Re: Rohloff

Post by PH »

531colin wrote: 27 May 2022, 9:26pm Just fit a chain tensioner, and the OEM torque arm with the bolt in the handy dropout slot

Do you really, really want to be faffing about trying to position the wheel to get the chain tension right, then moving the disc brake a couple of millimetres to line up properly? If the chain tension is really right you have to be able to move the wheel forward to get the chain off.
I doubt anyone would call me a purist, as I said upthread using a tensioner is no big deal, but that works both ways. The faff of adjusting the brakes to match the chain tension is something to be done at home, I do it when I'm replacing brake pads, I've never needed to do it more often, there's no need for it to be precise, anywhere between taught and falling off is fine,
At the side of the road the process is a little different, but no more complex, I use the Surly Tuggnut but there's plenty of other ways to ensure the wheel goes back in the same as it came out, no adjustment necessary. If I have any issue, it's mixing horizontal dropouts with mudguards, OK that's largely aesthetics, I don't want to leave a big enough gap at the back for the wheel with an inflated tyre pull out, a deflated tyre is fine, just a case of remembering not to inflate it before re-fitting...
In an ideal world, every bike for a Rohloff would be purpose built. An EBB, or sliding dropouts where the brake fixing moves with the axle, give all the convenience of vertical dropouts without a tensioner, plus the torque plate slots into the same dropout. It's just not such a big deal as to be a top priority for me when considering frames.
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531colin
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Re: Rohloff

Post by 531colin »

Shoogle wrote: 28 May 2022, 12:08pm Colin, I probably will do it the same as you, except nutted instead of QR.
As mentioned (probably in both threads) its useful if you can engage things one at a time.....on my bike, first the chain goes onto the sprocket, then the axle goes into the dropout slots, then the disc between the pads, then the reaction arm onto its retaining bolt.

In fairness, the mileage is paltry, but theres nothing where I'm worried about durability.
The reaction arm can't open up the dropout slot because it isn't fixed there.
The reaction arm and its (M6) retaining bolt are Rohloff fittings, so I'm not worried over durability there either. The dropout cutout the bolt fixes in is a random shape, but the bolt is up in one corner and the reaction arm pins it into the corner, so I think that'll be OK as well. (I feel there is some mixed messaging about torque from the reaction arm.....Thorn's dropouts are massive, but there is a Rohloff part which is basically an M5 nut with a sleeve which fits the reaction arm cutout.......so a mudguard bolt (in shear) will support reaction arm torque.)

I don't feel that the Longitude dropout slots are long enough to take the reaction arm and give adjustment of chain tension.
In the earlier thread theres a post from Brucey viewtopic.php?p=1562181#p1562181 suggesting you could get chain tension adjustment on the Longitude by moving the reaction arm retaining bolt in the dropout slot.....but that slot is an unhelpful shape and short of brazing up something to make the slot parallel-sided, I couldn't think how to do it; if you put a washer on the wheel side of the dropout you will displace the reaction arm only by the thickness of the washer, but I wasn't sure it was a good fix. On the positive side, the reaction arm bolt would provide a "stop" so the wheel went back in exactly the same place it came out of.
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