Shoogle wrote: ↑28 May 2022, 12:08pm
Colin, I probably will do it the same as you, except nutted instead of QR.
As mentioned (probably in both threads) its useful if you can engage things one at a time.....on my bike, first the chain goes onto the sprocket, then the axle goes into the dropout slots, then the disc between the pads, then the reaction arm onto its retaining bolt.
In fairness, the mileage is paltry, but theres nothing where I'm worried about durability.
The reaction arm can't open up the dropout slot because it isn't fixed there.
The reaction arm and its (M6) retaining bolt are Rohloff fittings, so I'm not worried over durability there either. The dropout cutout the bolt fixes in is a random shape, but the bolt is up in one corner and the reaction arm pins it into the corner, so I think that'll be OK as well. (I feel there is some mixed messaging about torque from the reaction arm.....Thorn's dropouts are massive, but there is a Rohloff part which is basically an M5 nut with a sleeve which fits the reaction arm cutout.......so a mudguard bolt (in shear) will support reaction arm torque.)
I don't feel that the Longitude dropout slots are long enough to take the reaction arm
and give adjustment of chain tension.
In the earlier thread theres a post from Brucey
viewtopic.php?p=1562181#p1562181 suggesting you could get chain tension adjustment on the Longitude by moving the reaction arm retaining bolt in the dropout slot.....but that slot is an unhelpful shape and short of brazing up something to make the slot parallel-sided, I couldn't think how to do it; if you put a washer on the wheel side of the dropout you will displace the reaction arm only by the thickness of the washer, but I wasn't sure it was a good fix. On the positive side, the reaction arm bolt would provide a "stop" so the wheel went back in exactly the same place it came out of.