Rear wheel removal on cube electric hybred bike

[Tom]

Hullo all,

Have anybody having problems finding information on general maintenance on cube electric hybred cycles (Mine 2002 Hybrid Supreme step through)removal of rear wheel, punctures etc,
If anybody can find any videos regards my model it will be appreciated,
Tom

[willcee]

Hello and welcome, us old cycle mechanics trained and / or self skilled still like looking at issues that guys who ask for manuals or videos seek on this probably the most knowledgeable cycle forum in europe. so please send us some pictures of the machine especially the rear wwheel area and the fasteners of same item and we will do our best to advise.. Most early hub motors the axle was screwed in like cheaper standard bicycles usually with a 15mm nut on either end of that axle, then theres a wire on the left side and a plug which links the hub power to the loom wires which head towards the battery and onwards to the handlebar area to displays and switches..Be careful around that plug...will

[stodd]

I can't see that specific model, but other Cube hybrids mainly have Bosch mid-drive motors. Rear wheel removal etc is the same as for any non-electric bike. If it's got hub gears (as our similar Raleigh Motus does) that's a bit of a pain, but not because of the electrics.

[borisface]

The issue with getting a rear wheel out is due to the weight of ebikes rather than anything intrinsic to the design. It's a pain I agree. If I have to remove the wheel I remove the battery and any other paraphenalia such as bags to make it as light as possible. I then get someone to give me a hand to hold the bars whilst I faff around. Sometime ago I replaced the inner tubes with ones with a sealant in the hope that any puncture will be dealt with that way.

[stodd]

I don't find turning the Motus over that hard despite the weight; ditto our far from featherweight tandem. Care needed with things attached to the handlebars, especially the display. And as borisface says, easier if you remove battery, panniers etc.

I prefer Marathon Plus to sealant. I've found sealant doesn't fix the punctures but leaves horrid gunk that make the inner tube irreparable. Perhaps sealants have improved since I last tried.

[saudidave]

You tube has loads of videos. It's easy, however does yours have a fully enclosed chainguard? If it is, I'd practice removing and refitting that at home before I ventured out!

1 Swap the tyres for Schwalbe Marathon plus if it doesn't already have them fitted.

2 If you do get a puncture, try aerosol sealant first. It'll knacker the tube but might get you home, at which point you replace the tube & off you go

3 If point 3 doesn't work, take all the gubbins off the handlebars,racks & seats, flip it over and it isn't any different than an ordinary bike. No need to remove the battery if you haven't got chronic heart failure!

That's it. If an ordinary bike doesn't faze you then this won't either.

[richardfm]

I had to fix a puncture today on the rear wheel of my wife's Gazelle Paris which has a Nexus 7 IGH and a full chain case.
To get enough slack in the chain to remove the wheel I had to remove the chain from the chain ring, to do that I had to remove the chain case, to do that I had to remove the drive side crank.
She better not get another puncture anytime soon.

[PAB855]

Have you tried these inner tubes which are like a length of tube sealed off flat across the two ends to make its length equal to the circumference, but they don't sit in a straight line, they sit curled into a ring with two ends touching.

What's their name?

I think they were invented in Germany or Holland to get over the tube changing problem without removing the rear wheel on bikes with back pedal brakes, chain, chain guard etc etc etc.

Anybody had any success..?

[richardfm]

Have you tried these inner tubes which are like a length of tube sealed off flat across the two ends to make its length equal to the circumference, but they don't sit in a straight line, they sit curled into a ring with two ends touching.

What's their name?

I think they were invented in Germany or Holland to get over the tube changing problem without removing the rear wheel on bikes with back pedal brakes, chain, chain guard etc etc etc.

Anybody had any success..?

Double ended inner tubes
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/inner-tubes-double-ended/

[PAB855]

Yes, GAADI was the brand name I couldn't remember, thanks richardfm

[Audax67]

Hybred? My eBrute is distinctly low-bred.

(Actually it's not: it's a bloody good Audax bike fitted with a motor that continues to impress me.)

[hemo]

Gaadi's make punctures a bit easier on ebike rear hub motors or even hub gear bikes where for some removal may be a faff.
I use Gaadi and they ae ok in the fact that repair or replacing is easier when said bike is laid on it's side, the tubes though are still prone to puntures and aren't a silver bullet to stopping them.
In fact I have had two puntures with them at the tube ends on the end, whether it is pressure or chaffing that has caused the pin hole I don't know but they aren't a fit and forget answer. Just a means to replacing/repairing without wheel faff and removal.
The other noticeable feature it the bump on each rotation on the road, where the two ends meet one is going to have some tyoe of small bulge, tbh imv they aren't meant to be a full time tube but a get you home one where one either cuts out or ties up the old tube until at home to and have more time to remove the wheel.
They can be utilised and I utilise them as a full time tube, but do still carry a normal P kit and also a spare Gaadi.

[Audax67]

I use Schwalbe Duranos with Slime tubes. Not going to tell you how many punctures I've had since I put them in March on 'cos the Puncture Fairy is always listening, but it's a number between -1 and 1. They (the tyres) were suspiciously easy to fit but they've held well so far despite some spine-rattling bumps.