Cycling UK Forum

I’m really struggling to get sorted for luggage for my first tour.

I intend to be as light as possible but really struggle to get excited about bikepacking bags.

I’m sure I’d prefer a rear rack and panniers (lower, more stable, easy access). Particularly as I will be on roads and the odd trail (ex railway line, canal path etc.

I only have eyelets for mudguards. - can a rack share these. Is it better to use a seatpost clamp with eyelets or one of those Carradice seatpost collars.

My then question is - would my heels clash with panniers? Is there a way to check this before I buy them?

Also my fork (carbon) has eyelets for mud guards can I put a front rack on these.

Can I make this work until I find a secondhand touring bike? I’m looking for a project

Do modern ‘adventure bikes work as tourers or will I get heel strike?

You say it's your first tour, which may imply you'll be going on more. I'd advise getting a bike with a different frame once you get back - specifically, one equipped to deal with racks and luggage - which doesn't help you much this first time, of course!
One 'do', one 'don't' You'll be able to fit a rack by using P clips, in place of brazed-on bosses. I did, back when I first went off on a tour. Line with rubber strip, like a cut up inner tube, in order to prevent the clip assaulting your frame's paint finish.
The don't. Don't, whatever you do, be tempted to use a rucksac instead of going through the undoubted hassle of fixing a proper rack. You will regret it. It'll obscure your view behind you and be v. uncomfortable - the weight of the 'sac and its content will be transferred down your torso and eminate at the interface between your butt & the saddle. Every mile and every bump will remind you of the folly of your decision... Guess how I know?

Gee wrote: ↑16 Jul 2022, 11:43am I only have eyelets for mudguards. - can a rack share these.

if you mean conventional brazed on eyelets, then yes.

Is it better to use a seatpost clamp with eyelets or one of those Carradice seatpost collars.

Or P clips. It all depends on the design of your frame.

My then question is - would my heels clash with panniers?

Depends on the design of your frame. Rear bags (quality ones) tend to have a sloping front face to avoid heels, but still rely on the frame being long enough.

Also my fork (carbon) has eyelets for mud guards can I put a front rack on these.

I think the verdict is no, especially since I imagine you would be fitting a low rider with clamp on loop around the fork blade.

I intend to be as light as possible

Yet you are talking about 4 panniers!

Gee wrote: ↑16 Jul 2022, 11:43amI only have eyelets for mudguards. - can a rack share these.

Yes. Generally better to have the rack against the frame. May need a longer bolt than at present.

Edited: Crossed post.

Jonathan

Take / post some snaps of the bike so we can better see the arrangement

Gee wrote: ↑16 Jul 2022, 11:43am

I only have eyelets for mudguards. - can a rack share these. Is it better to use a seatpost clamp with eyelets or one of those Carradice seatpost collars.

Yes, but ideally you should make sure the rack legs go closest to the frame, with the mudguard struts sitting outside them. (This may not always be possible.)

Between those two options... dunno. But if it's possible on your frame it would be better to buy a couple of P-clips and clamp them round the seat stays, then attach the rack arms to those. You want the two fixing points to be as wide apart as you can get them.

Gee wrote: ↑16 Jul 2022, 11:43am I only have eyelets for mudguards. - can a rack share these.

Fit the rack between the dropout eyelets and the mudguard stays. That will keep the stress on the bolt largely the same as if you had a rack and no mudguards.

If there is enough clearance inside the dropout between the inner face of the dropout and the chain when on the smallest sprocket, fit the bolt from the inside and use a nyloc nut with washer to secure the rack and mudguard stay. The advantage of doing that, is that in the (relatively unlikely) event of the bolt shearing under the weight carried on the rack, you will be able to remove what remains of the bolt in the dropout eyelet very easily.

Gee wrote: ↑16 Jul 2022, 11:43am Is it better to use a seatpost clamp with eyelets or one of those Carradice seatpost collars.

Get a seatpost clamp with eyelets. The seat tube is stronger than the seatpost, and the eyelets on the seatpost clamp will probably be at a better height for the rack stays.

Gee wrote: ↑16 Jul 2022, 11:43am My then question is - would my heels clash with panniers? Is there a way to check this before I buy them?
...
Do modern ‘adventure bikes work as tourers or will I get heel strike?

Depends on:
- chainstay length
- the size of your feet/cleat position/bulk of the rear of the shoe/sole unit
- pannier size and shape (Carradice Super C rears have a large rear taper for heel clearance, Ortlieb and most other panniers have less taper)
- the particular rack fitted, and the scope it offers to vary the fore/aft position of the panniers. Tubus also sell an extension bracket kit which enables a few of their racks to be mounted ~10mm further back and higher, increasing heel clearance.

In short, a traditional/purpose designed 'proper' touring bike with 450mm (or even slightly longer) chainstays is very unlikely to have insufficient heel clearance whatever rack, panniers, or footwear you have, unless you have Michael Thorpe sized feet. An adventure or gravel bike with significantly shorter chainstays, e.g. ~430mm, is likely to require careful selection of your panniers/rack to prevent heel strike, e.g. using Ortlieb's smaller front panniers instead of the larger rear models.

tatanab wrote: ↑16 Jul 2022, 12:00pm

Gee wrote: ↑16 Jul 2022, 11:43am I only have eyelets for mudguards. - can a rack share these.

if you mean conventional brazed on eyelets, then yes.

Is it better to use a seatpost clamp with eyelets or one of those Carradice seatpost collars.

Or P clips. It all depends on the design of your frame.

My then question is - would my heels clash with panniers?

Depends on the design of your frame. Rear bags (quality ones) tend to have a sloping front face to avoid heels, but still rely on the frame being long enough.

Also my fork (carbon) has eyelets for mud guards can I put a front rack on these.

I think the verdict is no, especially since I imagine you would be fitting a low rider with clamp on loop around the fork blade.

I intend to be as light as possible

Yet you are talking about 4 panniers!

Not thinking of 4 panniers. Something more akin to a front bar bag. The front is more an afterthought really.

Gee wrote: ↑16 Jul 2022, 12:30pm Something more akin to a front bar bag. The front is more an afterthought really.

A bar bag does not (usually) need a carrier. it is held to the bars by a Klickfix bracket. You say you are aiming at travelling light - Unless camping, for summer tours I would eschew panniers and stick to a saddlebag plus a barbag. All my clothing plus tools etc for a month (summer) will fit in a Carradice Campers Longflap saddlebag with ease.

tatanab wrote: ↑16 Jul 2022, 1:16pm

Gee wrote: ↑16 Jul 2022, 12:30pm Something more akin to a front bar bag. The front is more an afterthought really.

A bar bag does not (usually) need a carrier. it is held to the bars by a Klickfix bracket.barbag.jpg

You say you are aiming at travelling light - Unless camping, for summer tours I would eschew panniers and stick to a saddlebag plus a barbag. All my clothing plus tools etc for a month (summer) will fit in a Carradice Campers Longflap saddlebag with ease.

I’m planning to camp for 4 nights first go. The problem with that style of bag is it’d get in the way of my light. I suppose I could get a fork mounted light thoug.

Heel/pannier interference is not usually a problem. A pannier rack should position the centre of gravity of the load directly above the dropout mounting point, so the factors affecting possible interference are chainstay length, crank length and shoe size. Having said that, if there is slight interference, some panniers can be hooked on to some racks a bit further back than intended, still be secure, and be out of range of your heels.
You can also fit smaller, front panniers to a rear rack.

Gee wrote: ↑16 Jul 2022, 1:26pmThe problem with that style of bag is it’d get in the way of my light. I suppose I could get a fork mounted light thoug.

Is that about the bar bag in the picture or the saddlebag?

We use headlamps and bar bags on the tourers. One lamp is on a leg of the fork but most aren't.

Jonathan

Funnily enough, the whole vibe of cycle-touring is all about problem-solving! There's two sorts of cyclists - those who enjoy the whole process of a stream-of-problems (like the front light) and almost as a postscript, the actual tour!
And then there's the folks, who quite reasonably, decide the game isn't worth the candle and stick to other forms of this delightful hobby (or is more a life-style...?).

Gee wrote: ↑16 Jul 2022, 1:26pm The problem with that style of bag is it’d get in the way of my light. I suppose I could get a fork mounted light thoug.

That particular bag comes with a removable bracket underneath to fit a light to. Alternatively, there are handlebar stem mounting brackets to raise a light above a bag. With my summer touring machines I carry only small strap on lights for emergency use. Of course, if you want a handlebar mounted light you can always take off the barbag and sling it over your shoulder for the duration - I've done that.

I've done cycle camping on a light road bike with tight clearances and had no problem with heal strike with my size tens. I used a rear rack with panniers, tent on top of the rack and a bar bag. If you have mudguard eyes then you have all you need. P clips work well for securing the top of the rack to the seat stays. Obviously some bikes are better suited to certain types of riding but within reason you can tour on just about any bike.