fix front brake

[steverod]

The tires, the rim or both impractical?

[tatanab]

The tires, the rim or both impractical?

Tubular tyres fit tubular rims. Tubular rims do not accept conventional wired on tyres (clinchers). Repairing tubular tyres is seldom something an amateur wants to do, requires sewing skills (USA call the tyres "sew ups"). Imagine a wet, dark, December night and you get a puncture. Removing the tyre and fitting your spare tyre would be no fun. Hence, impractical in my view for general use. I have some which are used only for special events.

[Jupestar]

Tubs! Obvious is hindsight....

Is the wheel rim even designed to take a brake?

[steverod]

There's a pic of the rim a few posts up. I've ordered a puncture kit. I've got an old Puch as my regular ride. This bike is for the odd run along the sea or river (flat stuff).

[tatanab]

I've ordered a puncture kit.

An appropriate one with sewing kit is needed. Repairing at the roadside is not likely, unless you are highly skilled with the needle.
You will also need at least one spare tubular tyre to carry with you to get you home in the event of a puncture.

[Jupestar]

Just from the picture I'm be a bit wary about that rim. Doesn't look reinforced for a brake, can't see any wear Indicators. may be hidden under the andodizing.

Quite possible it can take a brake but will lose it andodizing. The other possibility is it can't and rim will collapse under braking at some point. If you can identify the rim you may be able to find out from the manufacturer.

[steverod]

I've emailed Mavic. The way the tires are fitted preclude carring a spare tube? I can handle a sewing needle. Where can I get info on this aspect? Thanks.

[rareposter]

Tubular tyres.
Very common on track bikes. Used to be the tyre of choice for pro level road racing too but largely replaced now by tubeless which are faster and easier to fit/repair. Repairing tubular tyres is generally not a home job and certainly not a roadside job!

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tubular_tyre

Frankly at this point I'd stop and take stock of exactly what you have, the wheel size, whether those rims will even be suitable for use with a front brake (many track wheels are specifically designed without a braking surface).

You could be getting into a very expensive and confusing mess of parts at this rate.

[steverod]

Thanks. Fair points.

[tatanab]

I've emailed Mavic. The way the tires are fitted preclude carring a spare tube? I can handle a sewing needle. Where can I get info on this aspect? Thanks.

You or they misunderstood. They are right that you do not carry a spare TUBE, instead you carry an entire spare TYRE. You have to remove the punctured tyre, breaking it free from the glue that holds it to the rim. You then fit the spare tyre, which will be a tight fit and ideally has the remnants of old glue from previous fitment. You then ride home and refit that tyre with appropriate amounts of glue/cement. Tubular tyres are held to the rim by the glue and pressure from pumping up the tyre hard.

There are lots of videos on the internet about this. Search "changing tubular tyre" for results such as https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_66AYm ... l=LucasRoy

Probably your best way forward is to buy a cheap pair of 700C wheels, tyres etc plus of course the brake you started by asking about.

[steverod]

This bike is getting heavier and heavier.

[Jupestar]

Yeah it's a bit of a mess.... And really comes down to

1) how safe do you want to be?
2) do you want a road legal bike?
3) how much are you willing to spend on this?

Ideally you want a fork to hold the brake, and a rim and fork strong enough to take the force of the brake. (The only good news is the wheels are almost certainly 700c and match the fork)..

So correct fork, correct brake, correct wheel rim... All of which are in debate.

You could probably bolt that rear brake onto the fork. Dump the alun nut, add Some spacers, and a regular nut. Spanner up the tube. No drilling. It would be a brake, although not a good one. Might well damage the fork if you tighten enough for it to stay still. And just have to take a punt on the rim and fork being strong enough -although most likely the caliper will move long before you get much power in the brake.

15/20 years ago I would have done it straight away.... With no intention to ever touch the front brake... But I also rode track bikes on tracks for a good number of years. Wiser now and a crash on a (legal) fixie, has put me off riding them on the road for good.

That said I'd have never gone out on the road on those tubs. They must be best part of 40 years old. 80% chance of pushing it home....

[steverod]

Believe it or not that's a bit encouraging. How do I measure my wheels ? It would be worth knowing whether they're 700 or 650.

[Jupestar]

Believe it or not that's a bit encouraging. How do I measure my wheels ? It would be worth knowing whether they're 700 or 650.

To be honest not entirely sure with Tubs. Think they are all notionally 700. Where the tyre would seat if a clincher it should be 622mm across the middle (diameter).... You won't get an accurate measurement, as you don't have a bead to seat, and even if you did it's not exactly easy.

Best thing to do rather than worry. Is put the wheel in the fork. Put the brake where you want to attach it to the frame. Will the pads reach the rim? Yes. One less thing to think about.

No. Suggest you give up and Take it down the velodrome and ride it.

[steverod]

No. Suggest you give up and Take it down the velodrome and ride it.

I did think of that but I'm not sure going round and round in circles is my thing.