Do I assume correctly that THIS will do the job?
It deffo does on my steel bikes with their inherent grounding fixtures.
My query is regarding the whole New World of carbon fibre forks and being forced to mount an Edelux II headlight on a plastic handlebar bracket (against my will, but sometimes life gives you lemons)
Dyno hub is THIS with the Shimano type Lego block connector, so earth and live presumably only travel via the cable?
So my question is really does the earth ring on the rear cable only need to interact with the metal part of the Edelux II body fixing bolt? Is the bicycle frame not relevant to the electrics anymore?
Dyno hub via Edelux II to rear dyno light cable?
Dyno hub via Edelux II to rear dyno light cable?
Last edited by deliquium on 3 Oct 2022, 7:16pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Dyno hub via Edelux II to rear light cable?
Are you asking about only the cable, or also the connections?
I choose to run twin cable between dynamos and all lights rather than using the frame and rack etc.
Jonathan
I choose to run twin cable between dynamos and all lights rather than using the frame and rack etc.
Jonathan
Re: Dyno hub via Edelux II to rear dyno light cable?
Just the cable - and that there won't be any earthing available through the bicycle frame - as on my all steel frames.
Connections with the cable linked/suggested above, are prebuilt/suited to the Edelux II headlight and with suitable bare wires for the rear lamp connection
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"you would be surprised at the number of people in these parts who nearly are half people and half bicycles"
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Re: Dyno hub via Edelux II to rear dyno light cable?
Thanks.
I don't know what "overvoltage protection" is in this context.
I choose to use twin rather than coaxial cable for this as I find it easier to get a nice run and lay. There are other opinions in the archives...
I'd expect that cable to work.
Jonathan
I don't know what "overvoltage protection" is in this context.
I choose to use twin rather than coaxial cable for this as I find it easier to get a nice run and lay. There are other opinions in the archives...
I'd expect that cable to work.
Jonathan
Re: Dyno hub via Edelux II to rear dyno light cable?
Thanks Jonathan for your replies, I probably didn't explain myself particulary clearly - a frequent occurrence!
On steel frames I've not had any issues with this light, this cabling, a similar dyno hub and the same rear dyno light, regarding voltage 'overload protection' - even if I knew what that meant.
So I guess what I am really asking is, if there is a twin core, or coax cable, or a combination of both, running from the dyno hub, to the headlamp and thence to the rear light - are the various bicycle frame materials irrelevant?
On steel frames I've not had any issues with this light, this cabling, a similar dyno hub and the same rear dyno light, regarding voltage 'overload protection' - even if I knew what that meant.
So I guess what I am really asking is, if there is a twin core, or coax cable, or a combination of both, running from the dyno hub, to the headlamp and thence to the rear light - are the various bicycle frame materials irrelevant?
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Re: Dyno hub via Edelux II to rear dyno light cable?
Yes.
(Unless you also somehow connect the circuit or more than one component to the frame!)
Jonathan
(Unless you also somehow connect the circuit or more than one component to the frame!)
Jonathan
Re: Dyno hub via Edelux II to rear dyno light cable?
That's the answer I was hoping for
The bicycle frame is aluminium and the forks carbon fibre, so in my ignorance and confusions was worried that the mounting lug on the Edelux II front lamp is aluminium, so how would earth be maintained via that, as the attachment ring for the prepared cable linked above is assumed to want to be earthed?
We shall see? I've ordered the cable
And accept I really don't understand electrics and metallurgy
Thanks Jonathan for your patience - which I have noticed on other threads
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Re: Dyno hub via Edelux II to rear dyno light cable?
Yes, that cable works fine, regardless of frame material, I have it on two bike. Both with Edulux and B&M rear lights.
You probably don't need the overvoltage protection, one of mine has it the other doesn't, it's this one
https://spacycles.co.uk/m12b0s198p2359/ ... ndard-Loom
You probably don't need the overvoltage protection, one of mine has it the other doesn't, it's this one
https://spacycles.co.uk/m12b0s198p2359/ ... ndard-Loom
I'm pretty sure it used to be needed when we had filament bulbs to prevent the entire dynamo output going to and blowing the rear bulb if the front failed.
Re: Dyno hub via Edelux II to rear dyno light cable?
Many thanks jdsk and PH
As usual I was getting scared of stuff I don't naturally understand
As usual I was getting scared of stuff I don't naturally understand
Current pedalable joys
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Re: Dyno hub via Edelux II to rear dyno light cable?
Either that one, or this one, which actually does have the plugs for the rear light fitted.deliquium wrote: ↑3 Oct 2022, 7:11pm Do I assume correctly that THIS will do the job?
My query is regarding the whole New World of carbon fibre forks and being forced to mount an Edelux II headlight on a plastic handlebar bracket (against my will, but sometimes life gives you lemons)
So my question is really does the earth ring on the rear cable only need to interact with the metal part of the Edelux II body fixing bolt? Is the bicycle frame not relevant to the electrics anymore?
The cable connects to the Edelux via the ring on the mounting bolt, which should contact the light housing, and a plug in the socket on the underside of the light. and to both sockets on the rear light.
Take care to keep the insulation on the front plug in good condition. If the metal part of the plug contacts the light body your lights won't work.
At the rear light, the black cable should be connected to the socket marked with the earth symbol. If the front light is on a plastic bracket, it will work either way round at the rear, but getting it right in the first place will avoid problems if you ever change the front light mounting point.
The overvoltage protection may possibly save the rear light in the (very) unlikely event of the front light failing to a short (rather than to open circuit). I've never bothered with it myself.
A failed front bulb killing the rear was a normal thing with filament bulbs both ends, but decent LED lights should be capable of handling the extra power.