Bella Build

[UpWrong]

So, I'm still waiting on the custom titanium fork. It was a bit of a guess on the dimensions so I’m a little anxious. I asked Dana at BentUp cycles for the AC length, offset and steerer measurements. He kindly measured the dimensions for me from a bike in his shop. However when I later compared the AC length with four 20” forks I have, it was the smallest.. So I increased it to what I thought was needed for a 37mm tyre and mudguard. The steerer length seemed tight too, so I increased that. The order went in, then later I had the thought, maybe he gave me the AC and the steerer lengths the wrong way round! Oops. Decided to leave it since the offset was probably the key measurement and the lengths I gave for the AC and steerer should be ok. The steerer can be cut and the AC was by reference to the forks I had. Also I shall probably run it without guards.

Gearing? I was going to stick with SRAM 9-speed but I’ve decided to cannibalise the Paseo’s 10-speed Dynasys transmission. I’m happy with 100” top gear, and need a bottom below 20”. So an 11-36 cassette and 26/36/46 rings will provide about 18” to 102”. It does exceed the capacity by 2T, though Shimano can be pessimistic with their specs. I won't run small-small in practice and the Bella doesn't have the chain length complications of an extendable boom to worry about. I need to order a 26T ring. Cranks? I have a Spa triple 165mm TD2 and the spacers it needs to correctly mount the rings.

Wheels: the 20” CR18/XT disc I was using on the P-38 before I changed it to smaller wheels and the 26” Mavic Crossride currently on the Paseo, which is rim braked.

I have an FSA headset. The lower cup is steel. I’ve been warned that a steel cup and aluminium headtube is more prone to galvanic corrosion and I should use an anti-seize compound when fitting. However, when squeezing cups into a headtube I’d rather have a lubricant than anti-seize. Thoughts? Worth buying a headset with upper and lower aluminium cups?

[UpWrong]

I have just paid the customs charges to ParcelForce on the fork, delivery on Weds. There was a £12 clearance fee in addition to the duty and VAT.

I'll post some photos of the frame and fork before starting the build. Having finally got this I'm now wondering if I prefer the SWB format afterall! I enjoy the P-38 and feel like giving it another go on the Paseo, which I was thinking of cannibalising. I'm running out of space though. Something will be going come spring if not before.

[deejayen]

I'm looking forward to hearing how you get on with it - or even if you end up utilising the fork for the Paseo. Hopefully, the key measurements will work out fine for either application.

Did you get the fork from somewhere like Carvers in the USA, or from one of the Taiwanese custom shops? Roughly, how long did it take for them to make it?

I'm no engineer, but I would have thought that anti-seize would have some sort of lubricating properties when installing, so I'd be inclined to use that - I have an old Land Rover, so I know that you definitely don't want galvanic corrosion!

[UpWrong]

I'm looking forward to hearing how you get on with it - or even if you end up utilising the fork for the Paseo. Hopefully, the key measurements will work out fine for either application.

Did you get the fork from somewhere like Carvers in the USA, or from one of the Taiwanese custom shops? Roughly, how long did it take for them to make it?

I'm no engineer, but I would have thought that anti-seize would have some sort of lubricating properties when installing, so I'd be inclined to use that - I have an old Land Rover, so I know that you definitely don't want galvanic corrosion!

Yes, the forks are via Carver Bikes. They are fabricated in China to order. It took around 10 weeks. They'll be fitted to the Bella. The Paseo has aluminium Bacchetta forks. I thought I'd offload the Paseo as a frameset and use the bits for the Bella build. I'm having second thoughts because the Paseo is such a cool bike, handmade in the Netherlands. Yes, even the frame. So I shall get that back on the road before making a decision.

[UpWrong]

Photos here, https://photos.app.goo.gl/B5zbufaQdRqgdYeM8

The welds look good. The dimensions are as I specified them. I think they'll work. Around 700g, before cutting the steerer.

[deejayen]

They do look good. They seem to be a similar tube diameter to my Rotator forks, but with more refined dropouts etc. Hopefully, they'll do the trick for you.

I was just reading an older thread in which you said you preferred LWB bikes, so it's interesting that you're now coming down on the side of SWB after more time on the P-38. I usually find niggles with whatever I'm riding, so am currently thinking about LWB, but your conversion is making me reconsider!

[UpWrong]

I was just reading an older thread in which you said you preferred LWB bikes, so it's interesting that you're now coming down on the side of SWB after more time on the P-38. I usually find niggles with whatever I'm riding, so am currently thinking about LWB, but your conversion is making me reconsider!

I might change my mind again! SWBs are better balanced. I feel more like a circus performer when riding one which makes gives me a smug feeling of satisfaction. LWBs are more stable at speed and feel like an aircraft when swooping through bends. But the handling gets weird below 5 or 6 mph and it can be harder to keep in a stable straight line when climbing.

[deejayen]

Yes, I suppose all recumbents have their quirks!

It's been ages since I last rode my Rotator, but I remember it did have a lot of tiller movement and wheel flop at slow speeds. Having said that, my Bacchetta Giro 26 was also tricky on steep climbs - with a reclined seat the front end was extremely light, and if I did start to weave there was a high risk of catching a foot on the front wheel. I imagine the P-38 is probably a good all-rounder.

[nobrakes]

Haven’t been on here for a while - you’re building another bike? Very cool. Are you still riding the p-38?

[nobrakes]

I’m now down to just the Fuego (other than the tandem). I don’t think I could ever part with a Nazca bike, they are just so nicely made and well thought out. Not riding it much at the moment due to ongoing foot pain issues but i still love it to bits

[UpWrong]

Haven’t been on here for a while - you’re building another bike? Very cool. Are you still riding the p-38?

Yes, I still have the P-38. I'm not making any progress in building up the Bella frameset. Work is taking all my time at the moment and when I'm not working I have my duties as the chauffeur and chief entertainment officer for the household.

I'm still reluctant to sell the Nazca Paseo. Seriously considering trying to fit one of the new AZUB seats to it ...

[hercule]

After it sitting neglected in a corner of the garage I decided that I should really sell my Fuego and free up space and cash. I spent an afternoon cleaning it up and sorting it out, then took it for a 5 mile loop to check all was OK. That was enough to persuade me to keep it… plus the prices of ones on eBay are far less than it’s worth to me, and I’ll probably never be able to get another.

Gratuitous recumbent photo….

[UpWrong]

After it sitting neglected in a corner of the garage I decided that I should really sell my Fuego and free up space and cash. I spent an afternoon cleaning it up and sorting it out, then took it for a 5 mile loop to check all was OK. That was enough to persuade me to keep it… plus the prices of ones on eBay are far less than it’s worth to me, and I’ll probably never be able to get another.

Gratuitous recumbent photo….

64C70B54-CA1E-412F-B772-459ED1163630.jpeg

That's a great photo, and I don't mind the thread drift

I'm one of those people who like to optimise things and I have been wondering about improving the return chain line on my Nazca by dropping the chain and removing the small idler by the headtube. I feel a lot of resistance when back-pedalling on mine. Some argue that the resistance isn't there under normal pedalling but the return chain is dragged left by the idler before being pulled back in line by the RD, That must be adding resistance.

[nobrakes]

I did that to mine with a Terracycle idler, although I kept the return idler above the front wheel too.

https://scottishborderscyclist.wordpres ... this-time/

I have since put the power side tube back on to stop contact with the tyre but it worked fine without too.

[hercule]

I suspect there’s more drag from the chain tube running forward from the rear mech than there is in the idler (provided its bearings are nice and free running). In any case, especially as my peak performance days are well behind me, I’m happier with a clean chain. Even more so on my trikes where most of the chain run is an inch or two above the road.

Plus, mine has a standard 9 speed SRAM X7 derailleur - I think it would just sag under the weight of the chain. Might work with a clutch derailleur but that probably means a whole transmission overhaul, and I’ve just changed the shifters as the rubber on the old ones was getting very sticky.