Spoke Tensionometer
Re: Spoke Tensionometer
I recall a friend checking my spokes with a tuning fork. It was a while ago, he looked up (not sure where) what the note should be - I forget the details he needed, probaby spoke length(?) - but I guess the number of crossings might affect this. He got the relevant piano tuning fork out and the spokes were spot on. I'd built/tensioned the wheel by feel, so not bad.
I then started building wheels (not that many) by feel and then checking with a tenionmeter. I now use the tensionmenter to have them an even tension from a low tension, and gradually increase the tension correcting any uneveness as I go. The wheels usually come out true first time (excluding the odd bit at the rim joint).
I then started building wheels (not that many) by feel and then checking with a tenionmeter. I now use the tensionmenter to have them an even tension from a low tension, and gradually increase the tension correcting any uneveness as I go. The wheels usually come out true first time (excluding the odd bit at the rim joint).
Re: Spoke Tensionometer
Well I've one of those Unior Tensionometers from up there ^ on its way from Bike24. Another tool I didn't know I needed Also the first post Brexit European bike part purchase and I used to buy a lot from Johnny Euro so we'll see how painful/painless that process is.
Re: Spoke Tensionometer
Musicians use tuning forks set to resonate at 440 Hz. Known as concert pitch and is the frequency of the A string on the violin. The whole orchestra then tunes up to this frequency. This is on the low side for plucking spokes but could give you a minimum frequency to tune too initially before tightening up.
Middle C is a bit lower at 256Hz.
Middle C is a bit lower at 256Hz.
At the last count:- Peugeot 531 pro, Dawes Discovery Tandem, Dawes Kingpin X3, Raleigh 20 stowaway, 1965 Moulton deluxe, Falcon K2 MTB dropped bar tourer, Rudge Bi frame folder, Longstaff trike conversion on a Giant XTC 840
- NATURAL ANKLING
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Re: Spoke Tensionometer
Hi,
I've used the spoke ping test for many years.
You can tap each spoke with a spanner or some other similar metal object, to get it to ring.
And spin the wheel slowly and do each spoke both sides.
This will automatically tell you very quickly quicker than any tool, If you have a slack or tight spoke.
Even if your tone deaf it's very easy to spot a rogue spoke.
I've used the spoke ping test for many years.
You can tap each spoke with a spanner or some other similar metal object, to get it to ring.
And spin the wheel slowly and do each spoke both sides.
This will automatically tell you very quickly quicker than any tool, If you have a slack or tight spoke.
Even if your tone deaf it's very easy to spot a rogue spoke.
NA Thinks Just End 2 End Return + Bivvy - Some day Soon I hope
You'll Still Find Me At The Top Of A Hill
Please forgive the poor Grammar I blame it on my mobile and phat thinkers.
You'll Still Find Me At The Top Of A Hill
Please forgive the poor Grammar I blame it on my mobile and phat thinkers.
- NATURAL ANKLING
- Posts: 13780
- Joined: 24 Oct 2012, 10:43pm
- Location: English Riviera
Re: Spoke Tensionometer
Hi,
Since I bought the tool I've not used it.
Probably because I've not built a single wheel in that time.
I alteady have too many wheels and too many spare wheels for each bike.
For someone has built wheels for many years successfully (not necessarily me) the tool will just be a curiosity and maybe just a novelty.
I'm not sure they truly tell you anywhere near the correct spoke tension very accurately.
Once you've built a number of Wheels correctly that stay to gether, simple Ping test will tell you all you need to know.
As I said earlier post, stress relieving is by far the most important thing for reliable wheels.
Since I bought the tool I've not used it.
Probably because I've not built a single wheel in that time.
I alteady have too many wheels and too many spare wheels for each bike.
For someone has built wheels for many years successfully (not necessarily me) the tool will just be a curiosity and maybe just a novelty.
I'm not sure they truly tell you anywhere near the correct spoke tension very accurately.
Once you've built a number of Wheels correctly that stay to gether, simple Ping test will tell you all you need to know.
As I said earlier post, stress relieving is by far the most important thing for reliable wheels.
NA Thinks Just End 2 End Return + Bivvy - Some day Soon I hope
You'll Still Find Me At The Top Of A Hill
Please forgive the poor Grammar I blame it on my mobile and phat thinkers.
You'll Still Find Me At The Top Of A Hill
Please forgive the poor Grammar I blame it on my mobile and phat thinkers.
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Re: Spoke Tensionometer
There is a phone app that does spoke tension by pitch. It is supposed to be good. The Park tensionometer is notorious for being badly calibrated.
Re: Spoke Tensionometer
At the last count:- Peugeot 531 pro, Dawes Discovery Tandem, Dawes Kingpin X3, Raleigh 20 stowaway, 1965 Moulton deluxe, Falcon K2 MTB dropped bar tourer, Rudge Bi frame folder, Longstaff trike conversion on a Giant XTC 840
Re: Spoke Tensionometer
First post page 1!rogerzilla wrote: ↑27 Oct 2022, 9:22pm There is a phone app that does spoke tension by pitch. It is supposed to be good. The Park tensionometer is notorious for being badly calibrated.
Re: Spoke Tensionometer
The thing arrived today, and after getting home, I set about having a play with it.
Impressed?
Not a lot!
Radial front wheel.
406 (20inch).
All spokes equal lengths and gauge.
Brand new rim.
I built the wheel earlier in the week, and put all the spokes to about the same tension.
The tensionometer arrived, and I set about finding the tightest spoke and setting them all the same - both sides.
Was the wheel true?
Not on your nellie!
Too much "stick-sion" in the tool, and inaccurate and when squeezing and releasing repeatedly too, it wasn't always resting on the same number. Trial and trial, I got a settled figure, but it's not accurate enough. I don't care about the precision, so long as the reading is repeatable and consistent easily . I don't blame the design or the idea, but it's not a good tool. I doubt the Park Tool one is any different in these regards, and I'm glad I only paid £16 for mine.
However ................
Having got the front radial wheel true and nice by using common sense and using my experience, it was good to go round the rim and confirm that the spokes were basically the same tension. I found one or two not quite as tight, so the tool sorted it out. The wheel is fine and dandy.
Next issue, was checking the rear 406 wheel, and that's where the tool is useless .......... not even any good for confirmation.
Why?
Because a 406 wheel with 2x doesn't have nearly enough space to fit the tool on the spokes.
My rear wheel is radial LH and 2x RH, so at least I can confirm the LH side.
If I were to build a 3x 700c wheel again, it would be simple in the confirmation department as the spokes are longer of course.
As an experiment, I took a bare spoke and wanted to see if the tensionometer read anything. I expected that it would show some rigidity in the spoke .............. but it read zero!
So that's a plus!
Impressed?
Not a lot!
Radial front wheel.
406 (20inch).
All spokes equal lengths and gauge.
Brand new rim.
I built the wheel earlier in the week, and put all the spokes to about the same tension.
The tensionometer arrived, and I set about finding the tightest spoke and setting them all the same - both sides.
Was the wheel true?
Not on your nellie!
Too much "stick-sion" in the tool, and inaccurate and when squeezing and releasing repeatedly too, it wasn't always resting on the same number. Trial and trial, I got a settled figure, but it's not accurate enough. I don't care about the precision, so long as the reading is repeatable and consistent easily . I don't blame the design or the idea, but it's not a good tool. I doubt the Park Tool one is any different in these regards, and I'm glad I only paid £16 for mine.
However ................
Having got the front radial wheel true and nice by using common sense and using my experience, it was good to go round the rim and confirm that the spokes were basically the same tension. I found one or two not quite as tight, so the tool sorted it out. The wheel is fine and dandy.
Next issue, was checking the rear 406 wheel, and that's where the tool is useless .......... not even any good for confirmation.
Why?
Because a 406 wheel with 2x doesn't have nearly enough space to fit the tool on the spokes.
My rear wheel is radial LH and 2x RH, so at least I can confirm the LH side.
If I were to build a 3x 700c wheel again, it would be simple in the confirmation department as the spokes are longer of course.
As an experiment, I took a bare spoke and wanted to see if the tensionometer read anything. I expected that it would show some rigidity in the spoke .............. but it read zero!
So that's a plus!
Mick F. Cornwall
- NATURAL ANKLING
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Re: Spoke Tensionometer
Hi,
Its possible to get even tension in spokes but the wheel could be wavy.
Thats to say that the rim could be parralel to aflat plane, but be out of true and still have even tension spokes.
It won't (tool) build a wheel, you need to do that and true wheel yourself.
Its a comparitor.
Its possible to get even tension in spokes but the wheel could be wavy.
Thats to say that the rim could be parralel to aflat plane, but be out of true and still have even tension spokes.
It won't (tool) build a wheel, you need to do that and true wheel yourself.
Its a comparitor.
NA Thinks Just End 2 End Return + Bivvy - Some day Soon I hope
You'll Still Find Me At The Top Of A Hill
Please forgive the poor Grammar I blame it on my mobile and phat thinkers.
You'll Still Find Me At The Top Of A Hill
Please forgive the poor Grammar I blame it on my mobile and phat thinkers.
Re: Spoke Tensionometer
Yes, a comparator.
It has it's uses, and I glad I bought it, and even more glad I didn't lash out on a Park one.
It has it's uses, and I glad I bought it, and even more glad I didn't lash out on a Park one.
Mick F. Cornwall
Re: Spoke Tensionometer
Sorted the stick-sion!
No doubt if I'd paid five times the price for a Park Tool, I wouldn't have to sort this out.
The hole where the pointer is fitted is too far up the arm, and the boss that slides along the curve was rubbing.
I had two choices. One, to file the curve - or two, to make the hole a little bit bigger so the boss sat in the middle of the curve.
I went for choice two, and now it's smooth and repeatable.
Here's the hole as original and you can see the problem.
No doubt if I'd paid five times the price for a Park Tool, I wouldn't have to sort this out.
The hole where the pointer is fitted is too far up the arm, and the boss that slides along the curve was rubbing.
I had two choices. One, to file the curve - or two, to make the hole a little bit bigger so the boss sat in the middle of the curve.
I went for choice two, and now it's smooth and repeatable.
Here's the hole as original and you can see the problem.
Mick F. Cornwall
Re: Spoke Tensionometer
I've always thought you need to get spoke tensions as even as possible consistent with the wheel being true.NATURAL ANKLING wrote: ↑29 Oct 2022, 9:44pm Hi,
Its possible to get even tension in spokes but the wheel could be wavy.
Thats to say that the rim could be parralel to aflat plane, but be out of true and still have even tension spokes.
It won't (tool) build a wheel, you need to do that and true wheel yourself.
Its a comparitor.
It's possible to build a "true" wheel with widely differing tensions. It won't last long though.
'Give me my bike, a bit of sunshine - and a stop-off for a lunchtime pint - and I'm a happy man.' - Reg Baker
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Re: Spoke Tensionometer
I can get the Park one into a x2 406 wheel. May be a smaller-diameter hub, though.