Just how much would you pay?
Re: Just how much would you pay?
The Shand bikes are very impressive. It's a niche market of course but they seem to have a fair corner of it. Would love to visit their workshop
Re: Just how much would you pay?
The Stoater Rohloff ticks a lot of boxes for me, but starting at £4250 it's probably not a price point I could bear. I'd much rather buy a lightweight frame and build myself.
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Re: Just how much would you pay?
Funnily enough, I’ve recently become aware of that and thought it looked bloomin’ good, and out of my price bracket.
The attraction of gearing that isn’t so vulnerable to excess wear from mud, grit etc is large given the cost of replacement parts these days.
The attraction of gearing that isn’t so vulnerable to excess wear from mud, grit etc is large given the cost of replacement parts these days.
Re: Just how much would you pay?
I'm thinking about similar build, but perhaps with one of those oversize, chunky Carbon Chinese frames. There are a few that are specifically adapted for hub gears.Nearholmer wrote: ↑29 Nov 2022, 9:14am Funnily enough, I’ve recently become aware of that and thought it looked bloomin’ good, and out of my price bracket.
The attraction of gearing that isn’t so vulnerable to excess wear from mud, grit etc is large given the cost of replacement parts these days.
Re: Just how much would you pay?
I wouldn't do it. It just isn't stiff enough for a tourer. Way too much shimmy from the handlebars.
Don't get me wrong, it's a wonderfully comfortable frame to ride but when loaded, it handles like a limp noodle and it's not errors in my loading. Both with rear panniers only and with front and rear panniers the bike was horrible to ride. My Dawes Vantage never had that problem. If I could change one thing on my bike, it'd be the frame and forks. Simply put, the Wayfarer frame and forks are crap. Avoid at all costs.
Bill
“Ride as much or as little, or as long or as short as you feel. But ride.” ~ Eddy Merckx
It's a rich man whos children run to him when his pockets are empty.
“Ride as much or as little, or as long or as short as you feel. But ride.” ~ Eddy Merckx
It's a rich man whos children run to him when his pockets are empty.
Re: Just how much would you pay?
I appreciate what you're saying Bill, but I've heard a few reports on the Wayfarer and all of them except yours have been positive and none have mentioned the handling problems that you have. That aside, the Wayfarer frame is everything I'm looking for and so on balance and considering its heritage, it still remains the prime contender. I've sometimes felt that my current bike (which solidly goes straight and sure when loaded) is a tiny bit too "tight" - a bit too vertical* with not enough layback - and looking at the geometry, the Wayfarer looks to me to answer this too - here's my current bike and the Wayfarer compared:
[EDIT] *by vertical I don't mean riding position but seat tube/head tube angles
[EDIT] *by vertical I don't mean riding position but seat tube/head tube angles
Disclaimer: Treat what I say with caution and if possible, wait for someone with more knowledge and experience to contribute.
Re: Just how much would you pay?
My 3 good bikes are all built from frames back in the days when mass market steel frames could be had for £250-£350. Add on a couple of sets of wheels etc and I think my two tourers were somewhere around £1000-£1200. My light(ish) bike a flat bar Surly Pacer 1x9. B Cost a bit less. The frame was second hand (from here) and built with the usual mix of new and old components.
Even though I could afford to spend more the bikes do what I need them to do. I kind of like the idea that if I get one stolen I'm losing half a months wages not a couple on months worth.
Even though I could afford to spend more the bikes do what I need them to do. I kind of like the idea that if I get one stolen I'm losing half a months wages not a couple on months worth.
Re: Just how much would you pay?
I try to stick around the £1000 mark, my house insurance limit, but a couple of years ago pushed the boat out to £1200
~~~~¯\(ツ)/¯~~~~
Re: Just how much would you pay?
Starting to wonder if I bought a dud...
Bill
“Ride as much or as little, or as long or as short as you feel. But ride.” ~ Eddy Merckx
It's a rich man whos children run to him when his pockets are empty.
“Ride as much or as little, or as long or as short as you feel. But ride.” ~ Eddy Merckx
It's a rich man whos children run to him when his pockets are empty.
Re: Just how much would you pay?
Having given up on the idea of a Rohloff several years ago for various (non cost) reasons, can't see myself ever paying more than £2,000 at today's prices for a bike, though allowances might be made for a good ebike at some point in the future hopefully a few years away.
Don't think you need to pay more really.
On "gravel" bikes I built up a thing which might qualify though it is flatbar and the gearing isn't "racey".
Really like it - second hand bike for frame cost me £21 at London prices and I added quality "sensible" bits.
Not sure of total cost, not a lot.
Don't think you need to pay more really.
On "gravel" bikes I built up a thing which might qualify though it is flatbar and the gearing isn't "racey".
Really like it - second hand bike for frame cost me £21 at London prices and I added quality "sensible" bits.
Not sure of total cost, not a lot.
Sweep
Re: Just how much would you pay?
As a compromise to my wallet, I bought a low(ish) end non-sus mtb back in 1997, a Dawes Chilliwack. It never rode well - I couldn't ride it no-handed and it would develop shimmy at the handlebars/forks at speeds beyond 25 mph iirc. The threaded headset would loosen no matter how tight I locked it and it would do this every ride - so much that I ended up carrying headset spanners everywhere, no matter how short the ride (hand tightening would not last five minutes). I suspected misaligned headset cups/headtube requiring facing but I never did get to the bottom of it - I didn't have the resources (including the money) to sort it out and later, when components needed replacing, I decided to call it a day, scrap it and buy a new bike (one that I actually wanted).
Disclaimer: Treat what I say with caution and if possible, wait for someone with more knowledge and experience to contribute.
Re: Just how much would you pay?
That sounds a bit like my Galaxy. By now I think it would have been cheaper to have bought a much higher-spec bike in the first place but I wouldn't have had as much fun and it still wouldn't have been exactly as I wanted it.freiston wrote: ↑29 Nov 2022, 1:28am My current bike (Jamis Aurora touring bike) cost only £660 but I've spent some money on it since. Velo Orange Grand Cru Course handlebars, Velo Orange seatpost, Velo Orange stem, Dynamo front wheel, lights and Cycle2Charge USB charger, Racktime AddIt rear rack and Tubus Tara front low rider rack, SKS mudguards, pedals, saddle, wider ratio rear cassette & a rear mech to cope with the new capacity and new Tektro CR720 cantilever front brakes - all in all about another £550. There have been consumables too but I haven't counted them.
My most expensive bike is just over 6K euros, but as it's a tandem Mrs T had as much a say in purchasing it as I did
Re: Just how much would you pay?
Before you make a purchase, I suggest you double-check what the seat angle of the Wayfarer in your size is. Although I think from his posts 531colin designed all sizes with 72 degree seat angles, Spa themselves list the 54cm frame as having a 73 degree seat angle.freiston wrote: ↑29 Nov 2022, 11:47pm I've sometimes felt that my current bike (which solidly goes straight and sure when loaded) is a tiny bit too "tight" - a bit too vertical* with not enough layback - and looking at the geometry, the Wayfarer looks to me to answer this too - here's my current bike and the Wayfarer compared:
[EDIT] *by vertical I don't mean riding position but seat tube/head tube angles
viewtopic.php?p=1395882#p1395882
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m1b0s225p38 ... Cable-Disc
I've experienced shimmy riding no hands on tarmac, and posted details here - viewtopic.php?t=147525. I've not tried the bike with loaded panniers to compare the handling with my usual loaded saddlebag, but probably will one day. I think the best thing to do is get a test ride, so that you can experience the handling for yourself.
I think I have suggested before that you book a test ride at Spa on their demonstrator in your size. That is probably the only way you will find out if there is something up with your particular frame.
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Re: Just how much would you pay?
Most expensive bike I built (or boight) cost me £1500 c.18 years ago, mostly 2nd hand parts except wheels. A top of the range Giant TCR full carbon with Dura Ace and lots of carbon bits. All worked on cost v weight loss to get to a genuine 16lbs.
As good as pros were riding and could see why!
Given my life expectancy can't justify more than a few '00 quid now.
As good as pros were riding and could see why!
Given my life expectancy can't justify more than a few '00 quid now.