In the picture its fairly clear I'm on a turbo trainer, but on my bikes I can ride like that no hands. (I prefer relatively stable steering)
i think body shape should govern the shape of the bicycle, not the riders balance on the bike.
In the picture its fairly clear I'm on a turbo trainer, but on my bikes I can ride like that no hands. (I prefer relatively stable steering)
Given the OP's comments about "wherever the bars are at...I feel petrified on certain steep downward surfaces", I am wondering if there are any significant differences between the two bikes in the steering/trail.
Yeah, its my article. Hope you find it useful.doffcocker wrote: ↑23 Jan 2023, 9:37pm Just a bit of an update on this, and thanks all for getting back to me.
Firstly I will try and get some pics of myself on the bike asap, as you can imagine I'm struggling with the practicalities of that, but know this would help a lot so will certainly try for these.
@Colin531, am I talking to the Colin who produced the article I mentioned in my OP? If so, I suddenly feel star struck somehow. Bravo, and special thanks indeed for your response.
I just have a further question relating to foot position when cycling downhill. I have always gravitated toward a six o clock position when freewheeling downwards and on my ride this evening noticed some resistance to using my foot on the lower pedal as an anchor - I think I read somewhere that going downhill should ideally be a 2:45/9:15 type thing and have been aiming for that - but realised just how much weight comes off my hands when I instead let it rest on my right (preferred foot).
If that makes sense...
Are there problems associated with this or is it just standard?
THIS^^^^Jupestar wrote: ↑24 Jan 2023, 9:29am Hard to tell from the pictures, (one with the bikes next to each other so the distance from saddle to hoods can be compared). But i suspect that the reach from saddle to hoods on the grey triban is greater than on the blue bike. In which case you could be throwing too much weight on the hands and taking the bumps into the arms rather than through the legs.
I think I have seen that argued the other way.......ie. you get more grip with the low pedal on the inside of the bend (where there is a danger of grounding)PedallingSquares wrote: ↑24 Jan 2023, 11:39am*My underline.TrevA wrote: ↑24 Jan 2023, 10:44am Foot position when descending, for me, depends on the descent. If it’s just a straightforward downhill, then I’ll have my feet in the 3 O’Clock/9 O’Clock position. If it’s a twisty descent, then I’ll have them in the 12 O’Clock/6 O’Clock position, with the inside pedal (the one on the side you are leaning towards) being the higher and the outside pedal being lower.
^^This^^.A technique used by Mountain Bikers for optimum grip when cornering.I use it on the roads too.
By having the low pedal on the inside your weight is pushing the tyres outwards=less contact.Low pedal outside your weight pushes against the tyre's natural tendency to want to slide=more contact.There's been lots of tests over the years in Mountain bike mags and that's the conclusion and the reason most Downhillers use that method.It works especially well when you're running back tyres at 18-22psi.531colin wrote: ↑24 Jan 2023, 12:35pmI think I have seen that argued the other way.......ie. you get more grip with the low pedal on the inside of the bend (where there is a danger of grounding)PedallingSquares wrote: ↑24 Jan 2023, 11:39am*My underline.TrevA wrote: ↑24 Jan 2023, 10:44am Foot position when descending, for me, depends on the descent. If it’s just a straightforward downhill, then I’ll have my feet in the 3 O’Clock/9 O’Clock position. If it’s a twisty descent, then I’ll have them in the 12 O’Clock/6 O’Clock position, with the inside pedal (the one on the side you are leaning towards) being the higher and the outside pedal being lower.
^^This^^.A technique used by Mountain Bikers for optimum grip when cornering.I use it on the roads too.
I'd also be interested in an explanation.mattheus wrote: ↑24 Jan 2023, 4:10pm "outside pedal down for better grip" is one of those "accepted truths" that I've never been happy with!
It's not important, because I can't see any drawbacks to doing it. But as a (lapsed) physicist, I can't visualise what forces are making this work. And I can't see it being explained using text on an internet forum - it's a blackboard job!
And is hanging out the inside knee consistent with this idea??
...
Good strat - agree with that.
Seriously? Blimey, I am Mr Inflexible and I can mange it Colin. I will spare you a pic of me in lycra though and instead defer to the pros... I suspect this comes more naturally to cyclists with an MTB background, where moving your weight behind the saddle on steep decents is a technique you learn very early on. It prevents you going over the bars if you have to brake heavily as well.
Perhaps not either head angle or fork offset individually, but the two combined along with wheel size give a front wheel that is nearer or further from the rider's centre of mass and thus carrying more or less weight.
https://www.smartercycling.cc/corners/p ... ing-turns/Jdsk wrote: ↑24 Jan 2023, 4:13pmI'd also be interested in an explanation.mattheus wrote: ↑24 Jan 2023, 4:10pm "outside pedal down for better grip" is one of those "accepted truths" that I've never been happy with!
It's not important, because I can't see any drawbacks to doing it. But as a (lapsed) physicist, I can't visualise what forces are making this work. And I can't see it being explained using text on an internet forum - it's a blackboard job!
And is hanging out the inside knee consistent with this idea??
...
Is it about shifting the mass of the rider sideways?
Thanks
Jonathan
https://www.cyclist.co.uk/in-depth/1186 ... -corneringCornering on the racing bike involves three objectives:
bochten natuurkundig• Handling the centrifugal force
• Control and carrying as much speed as possible at the exit
• Make quick adjustments
In this, the following factors play a role:
• bank angle with respect to the road surface.
• your body’s center of gravity (BCG) in the horizontal plane, just above or far away from the point of contact of the wheels with the road surface.
• The height of your BCG relative to the road surface.
For a curve with radius (r) and bicycle speed (v), the bank angle (theta) of the fixed center of gravity is given by: theta = arctan (v ^ 2 / g). Given this inclination, you can freely vary the relative position of the bike and rider.
You can make quick corrections on your line by playing with the position of your body. This can be done by pushing your knee into the turn. You can also make small adjustments quickly by buckling to a greater or lesser extend with the ski-turn. In the video about Cancellara you can see this clearly.
If you ride a curve with the ski-trun you can make minor corrections faster than with the classic turn.
By the kinks in the skihouding less mass goes sharply through the bend, but a part of it takes a wider curve. Thus, you need to compensate less centrifugal force.
To lean out with your upper body, you get more perpendicular pressure on the front wheel and therefore more control. This can compensate for the horizontal force to the outside as a result of the centrifugal forces. This reduces the chance of slipping. This enhances the effect of pressing down the outside of pedal.
When entering a curve you use consciously or unconsciously ‘to sweep’, ie first to send before you “fall” to the desired side. See Curve Work
I've looked at other websites and the consensus is common.Outside foot down pushing weight onto that foot.
Cornering is an essential skill for any cyclist. Although being a better bike handler can help you win races, the main reason to learn to corner correctly (or rather safely) is because it could save your neck. Although it is possible for you to come off your bike while riding in a straight line, it’s more likely to happen when you’re going round a bend.
We've covered the science of cornering, such as how far you can safely lean before - read How far can you lean a bike in a corner, plus pro tips on cornering perfection but how do you translate that into practical, real-world advice? Like all techniques, it’s a process that can be learned and then perfected with repeated practice. Here are a few pointers on how to do it right…
The approach
As you approach a corner, check around you for movement of traffic or other riders. When you’re confident the road is clear, move out towards the middle of the road. This will dramatically improve your cornering angle, giving you more width to negotiate the turn in a smooth arc. The tighter your entrance angle on the approach, the more difficult cornering becomes. In wet conditions, you should be looking further up the road than usual, and when approaching a corner, look out for things on the road surface that can adversely affect grip like oil, mud or loose gravel – all lethal in the wet.
Changing Gear
As you approach the corner, as well as braking, change down to a lower gear. This should be a gear that you can comfortably exit the corner on. It’s no good pedalling into a corner on 53x12, forgetting to change gear and then grinding almost to a halt as you struggle to accelerate out the other side.
Riding Position
Cornering is often a lot easier if you’re riding in the drop position on your handlebars. You have easier access to your brakes, your arms are more relaxed here (as long as you keep them bent), and your weight is lower and easier to shift, too. The lower centre of gravity also means you can go faster more safely.
Braking
Giant TCR Advanced SL braking
As you approach the corner, cover your brake levers and start reducing your speed. Your biggest potential danger when cornering is approaching too fast and then having your brakes lock up as you grab at them in a moment of panic. It’s far better to have to let go of the brakes a bit than to grab them hard and risk crashing. That said, try not to brake too early ahead of the turn and lose all your speed.
Shift your weight
When you’re a few metres from the corner, lift your foot closest to the corner side so your pedal is up. This will improve your balance and weight distribution and prevent your pedals from hitting the road. Distribute your weight so that it pushes down through the leg furthest from the corner (which will be down) as this helps balance and improve tight grip by forcing the tires onto the road. Keep your upper body loose as stiffening up can make the bike drift. This is especially true in wet or icy conditions, when you’ll also need to be wary of leaning – don’t lean as much as you do in the dry.
Head position
Stelvio corner
Your head should be up at all times, looking ahead, not at the road surface two metres ahead of your front wheel. Doing this prevents you from taking a smooth line through the corner. Your eyes need to be parallel to the horizon and looking through the apex of the corner towards the point at which you want to exit. This way you’ll ride towards where you’re looking. Look away from this line and you’ll most likely drift in that direction as a result. Concentration is the key.
Exiting the corner
As you come out of the corner, don’t straighten the bike up to soon – do it gradually. Stay in your cornering position until you’re fully out the other side. Don’t start pedalling too soon either, as you’ll probably hit your pedal on the road. Only start pedalling again as the bike starts to right itself.
can't visualise what forces are making this work.