Annoying clicks and creaks.

[Jdsk]

Well done.

And another example of how what would appear to be powerful and logical diagnostic approaches don't always work for this type of problem.

Thanks for sharing.

Jonathan

[Cowsham]

Well done.

And another example of how what would appear to be powerful and logical diagnostic approaches don't always work for this type of problem.

Thanks for sharing.

Jonathan

Do the easy stuff first is always a good approach.

[Brucey]

IME many really persistent noises are caused by movement in Al to Al joints. A close second is similar movement in Al to steel joints. In both cases fretting soon causes the formation of a 'third body' in the form of black sludge, which is mostly Al oxide. This nearly always makes the noise much worse and simply re-tightening everything is rarely effective unless it is preceded by dismantling/cleaning. Some Al to Al joints (eg chainrings on spiders) are best assembled clean and dry, with grease on the bolt threads only.

[Cowsham]

IME many really persistent noises are caused by movement in Al to Al joints. A close second is similar movement in Al to steel joints. In both cases fretting soon causes the formation of a 'third body' in the form of black sludge, which is mostly Al oxide. This nearly always makes the noise much worse and simply re-tightening everything is rarely effective unless it is preceded by dismantling/cleaning. Some Al to Al joints (eg chainrings on spiders) are best assembled clean and dry, with grease on the bolt threads only.

Absolutely

[gbnz]

Just cured an annoying click coming from the saddle rails / bracket.

Seemed to be coming from the bb pedals or seat post as it happened at the same point on the crank rotation and oddly sometimes when I took all weight off the saddle but I must have been just brushing the edges of it with my legs.

The first thing I did was
tighten the seat post -- same --
changed the pedals -- same --
Tightened the micro adjust 2 bolt saddle clamp -- quite a bit better but not completely gone.

Then I took the bracket that holds the saddle rails apart and found grit between the barrel nuts and the top clamp. Cleaned everything and refitted -- clicking gone.

Incredible timing, well done in relation to your bicycle

Bought an expensive, brand name bicycle, 8.5yr's back, virtually unused since purchase. In temporary one off use today for an essential appointment (Nb. Other two having major overhaul this week)

On purchase/immediate creaking, had removed every component, cleaned, polished, fitted new BB cartridge, swapped cranks, chain set, seat post, saddle, handlebars from other two bicycles, new forks fitted FOC. A fantastic bicycle to ride, but had forgotten just how incredibly bad, the creaking is (Nb. Sufficient to have pedestrians hearing the bicycle approaching, looking over their shoulders today)

Have the time to absolutely strip the bicycle down, must do it. Am clear it's the slightest bit of effort causes the creak (99% of ride), surprised if I haven't tried wheels from other bicycles/but can't remember doing so (Nb. Would be ashamed to sell it on with that racket, at worst it's been kept for £100's of components)

[Brucey]

......Have the time to absolutely strip the bicycle down, must do it. Am clear it's the slightest bit of effort causes the creak (99% of ride)......

before you strip it, can I suggest using a stethoscope to pin the noise source down?

[gbnz]

before you strip it, can I suggest using a stethoscope to pin the noise source down?

Is that an ironic statement, or serious ?

Have never had any bicycle make a racket like this, I'll have stopped trying to sort it out, back end of 2017. Am sure would have loads of offers for a bicycle costing hundreds and being sold for £100. But it'd be unethical and at worst, has hundreds of pounds of parts fitted, which could be used elsewhere. Had been reluctant, but had accepted it must, be the frame.

[Cowsham]

before you strip it, can I suggest using a stethoscope to pin the noise source down?

Is that an ironic statement, or serious ?

Have never had any bicycle make a racket like this, I'll have stopped trying to sort it out, back end of 2017. Am sure would have loads of offers for a bicycle costing hundreds and being sold for £100. But it'd be unethical and at worst, has hundreds of pounds of parts fitted, which could be used elsewhere. Had been reluctant, but had accepted it must, be the frame.

A standard stethoscope would be impractical on a cycle obviously because you're cycling to get the pressure on the pedals to make the bike squeak but the suggestion has given me an idea.

I bought a little cheap voice recorder to help make videos ie get better sound for the video. ( I can mount the recorder on my top jacket pocket or clip the lavalier microphone to my collar or even glasses so that the road noise from the action cam isn't an issue. ) you could use the recorder taped to different parts of the bike to pinpoint the click. ie play back the recordings ( they automatically number themselves so you can identify each but take a note of which recording relates to which Mic position. )

I've used stethoscopes on engines and other machinery to diagnose faults.

The other way could be to use a standard stethoscope but record the sound from the earpiece with the cheap voice recorder.

( there is voice recorder on your smart phone but it's too fiddly and expensive if you drop it. Plus a cheap voice recorder is usually better sound.)

The other thing is to only change one thing at a time and see whether it gets better or worse.

[Cowsham]

Oh and don't forget to look for cracks around the bottom bracket especially where the chain stays are attached to the bb.

[gbnz]

I've used stethoscopes on..........

The other thing is to only change one thing at a time and see whether it gets better or worse.

Thanks, had tried that in the year or so after purchase, but will try again

At worst will definitely keep the components and reuse all the scrap parts off my other main bicycle, in order that the "creaking" bicycle can be used as a "station lock up" bicycle (I.e. Chain taken off that bicycle this week, is definitely too knackered for reuse, but two heavily worn chain rings / cassette / rear derailleur would be ok with a 70% worn chain - new chains not being worn enough). Would definitely need painted, to look like "scrap", as a brand new looking, expensive bicycle, would be an obvious target for AN Other

And stethoscopes ? Would ask the next Dr for a worn out stethoscope, but they don't like me cycling (Nb. No injuries for 3.75yr's)

[Jdsk]

...
And another example of how what would appear to be powerful and logical diagnostic approaches don't always work for this type of problem.
...

Do the easy stuff first is always a good approach.

It's a good heuristic for many problems. Ditto "cheap".

Jonathan

[rareposter]

On purchase/immediate creaking, had removed every component, cleaned, polished, fitted new BB cartridge, swapped cranks, chain set, seat post, saddle, handlebars from other two bicycles, new forks fitted FOC. A fantastic bicycle to ride, but had forgotten just how incredibly bad, the creaking is (Nb. Sufficient to have pedestrians hearing the bicycle approaching, looking over their shoulders today)

My LBS had a titanium frame in that did that. The mechanic had tried all sorts - new BB, chainset strip/clean/rebuild, rear hub service - but nothing solved it so in the end he took the whole thing to bits, right down to the bare frame. Bracing the chainstays and flexing the frame, the creak was there but there was zero visual indication of anything wrong, the welds were flawless. So it went back to the manufacturer and they couldn't see anything wrong either. They only solved it by asking the factory who said that the seat tube had a sleeve inside it to effectively shim it to the correct seatpost. That sleeve was only bonded at the top so the creak was it moving further down the seattube. You'd never have seen or found that. They solved it by pouring a load of hot wax down the tube from the BB shell, it filled the gap between the sleeve and the seat tube and set firm. No more creak.

[Cowsham]

(Nb. No injuries for 3.75yr's)

Well done -- wish I could say the same.

[Jdsk]

before you strip it, can I suggest using a stethoscope to pin the noise source down?

Is that an ironic statement, or serious ?
...

A standard stethoscope would be impractical on a cycle obviously because you're cycling to get the pressure on the pedals to make the bike squeak but the suggestion has given me an idea.

I bought a little cheap voice recorder to help make videos ie get better sound for the video. ( I can mount the recorder on my top jacket pocket or clip the lavalier microphone to my collar or even glasses so that the road noise from the action cam isn't an issue. ) you could use the recorder taped to different parts of the bike to pinpoint the click. ie play back the recordings ( they automatically number themselves so you can identify each but take a note of which recording relates to which Mic position. )

I've used stethoscopes on engines and other machinery to diagnose faults.

The other way could be to use a standard stethoscope but record the sound from the earpiece with the cheap voice recorder.

( there is voice recorder on your smart phone but it's too fiddly and expensive if you drop it. Plus a cheap voice recorder is usually better sound.)

The other thing is to only change one thing at a time and see whether it gets better or worse.

IME medical stethoscopes don't have suitable ends: the most useful in the workshop being a rigid metal rod. You can buy them or make them. If you don't have earpieces you can press your forehead on the other end and use bone conduction.

Jonathan

[gbnz]

It's a good heuristic for many problems. Ditto "cheap".

Jonathan
[/quote]

Yes, such a pity that it was an "expensive bicycle". Perhaps I should have bought 3-4 of Halfords equivalents. Its rather like that "expensive" British made, steel tourer. In contrast, why have my two Taiwan made bicycles been superb, with a mileage 10 times as high?